Ashi Valkoinen

Hello Stefaneris, thanks you for mentioning my project in your thread and thank you for sharing your interpretation of the Stadler KISS train. You did really well capturing the sloped red stripe, it is a really hard task to do, 1st generation FLIRT/KISS fronts are really hard to build with LEGOs, if you focus on some detail, you lose an another a little bit (by your model, the side window for driver's cab is not as detailed due to the SNOT you used around the front). I advise to use panel 1×4×3 instead of two of 1×2×2 ones as front window, current front window seems to be a little short in height. Although 3 bricks height may be to much, using a trans-black panel gives you the illusion, that it is 2 brick, 2 plates high because of it's thick bottom, it will seem to be black, not trans black.Other detail, maybe you can fix it, that at the end of carriages there is no double deck, just simple deck in mid-height. Somehow like this: http://www.brickshel...KISS/wip_11.png My design based on the 360° camera view of the Westbahn train, maybe the stair design differs on suburban version, but I think there are no big differences. Also, if you haven't found it, useful resource for scaling and details: http://www.stadlerra...DOSBBZ0908e.pdf I hope you will build this train once. :)

Ohh, thanks for correction, truly said I'm not paying full attention to sets since I discovered building MOCs is much better :) Then there is no problem producing the door in new LBG colour for the subway MOC!

It is a very compact, good design, I really like. I'm not sure this idea needs those new parts you described on Ideas page, I think this thing will look like very nice using just two of trans clear panel 1×2×2 next to each other as a window. As a LEGO set (if it ever will be) it will be sold basically to kids, so you don't need that rounded edges of windows, as you need it in H0 or TT model railway. Other thing I noticed: you used almost only gray, black, and yellow parts. Most of current LEGO sets - trains or not - have much more colours inside - hidden or almost invisible from outside parts may have different colour - just to make sorting and handling parts for kids easier. It would be nice to see this train cars also with metroliner colouring or just simply replacing the yellow line with a lime one or orange one (don't you make a try with it?) You can also keep price low with leaving the light brick - I think it is a good feature for train AFOLs, but not really important one for kids, which will be the target audience of this MOC, if being a LEGO-set. Things written above includes my thought, how can it be a LEGO-set. This set - as a MOC - is a really compact, playable and realistic train, which should be the first step of every wannabe train-TFOL/AFOL. Nice details with simple parts and easily accessible, current parts except the doors (if I'm not wrong, last train doors were in 2006-2009 RC freight locomotive).

Really nice MOC, LT12V! I like the simple, and because of the wiring hard to do design. You captured the real thing really good, maybe the white letters could be a bit smaller. The best idea in this MOC for me using those old 1×2×1 windows as front lights, really rare to see a detail captured so well with one specific brick. I'm little sad about using custom LEDs, I'm sure you can fit all the wires under the loco, between bogies, but it is almost impossible to hide the PF LED light itself on the front, and meh, they are too expensive compared to those you used here.

Hello zephyr, We had double track everywhere. We could used single-track parts, but an open loop operation really needs humans, and for three days it was safer to minimize the probability of train crashes :) We had some industries, train yards, but because in Hungary these tracks are not electrified in reality, we served these parts of the LEGO layout with PF-shunters on PF-tracks, not by timetable, but occasionally, so these parts didnt need any wiring. Other solution if you put a point where the industry railway joins the mainline, and you power the industry track from the block, where it joins your mainline. Wiring is not so hard to do, really. My club friend, known as kvp cut couple of 9V cables and put extension cables sold at any shop between the ends of the cable. For one block, we put 9V cable on the speed regulator, other end on the track, if the block is long enough, we power the block from two positions from the speed regulator. Speed regulators can be set up at one operator for neighbouring blocks, so you can manage more blocks from the same position. If you have trains only passing through a block (not turning back) then you can connect 9V cables from two or three blocks on the same speed regulator, making one huge block. If there are more trains, then you put back the 9V cables to their original speed regulator. Also this guy kvp is working on some security system for 9V trains by now, if I remember well it includes a small circuit which can detect if there is any 9V motor on a section or not, and this thing controll the signals as well, not letting to put signals to green while the block is busy with a train. I think, if he finishes with it, it will need tons of wiring for a layout :) And back to the original topic, I really like the layout you temporary made for your kid, however, I dont know how enjoyed that operation more, you or your kid. And the idea of so detailed industry railways reminds me to old Budapest (capital of Hungary) industrial track, in the fifties and sixties we had train tracks almost every corner in the city, unfortunately those times were gone before I was born. :(

There's no reason why they shouldn't work when coupled directly to the car ends rather than between the bogies Then you will need a quite long technic rod - 7 stud or longer one. Your train has really long waggons compared to the curve radius, so waggon end - especially on S-curve or points will be really far away from each other. To keep the distance between your waggon ends around 1 stud you need to mount your coupling on the bogies and you have reall lots of free space under your waggon to do it any way you want. Mounting couplers on car body is really rare - I have seen it only on trains which run on straights and long-radius curves built from straight pieces. Imagine how long rod these units may need, if mounted on car bodies and not on bogies. It will be the same with yours, having ridicolous distances between each unit.

Thanks for your replies. ScotNick, UrbanErwin: yes, you are both right about motorised bogies framework, the only reason I never build this part on my trains is creating a really fragile system. I cant use the 9V motor decoration here (there is a 12V current pickup mounted on the 9V bogies to make the train work also from old 12V track, displaying the multiple voltage operation of the real thing, so there is no room for decoration frame), other solutions without using glue will be fragile. Not in the first, second, or third loop, but in the 100th one. I often faced the problem that the train lost some part from the bogie framework, and on the next loop it derailed or left the display table, so I just gave up with it. If you have suggestions, how to create one without being fragile, it would be nice to apply it on my RailJet.

Nice MOC, I especially like the front design, however, does those curved slopes exist in transparent colours? And a suggestion, if you ever build this for real: connection between cars should be mounted on boogies, with 3L rods mounted on waggon bodies it wont work on standard LEGO track curves and points.

After a long time I can present finally a new creation of mine again. Maybe more than two years ago I posted here the LDD images of my RailJet train, it took two years to get all the parts while processing with paralell projects like Koncar narrow gauge tram or my FLIRT-project. So, RailJets, I'm sure everyone knows them, especially who lives in Europe. They are running mainly in Austria, but they can enter the railway network of Germany, Switzerland, Chech Republic and Hungary as well. RailJets arrive to Budapest (capital of Hungary) from Vienna main station, München and Salzburg. Now we have RJs here in every two hour both direction, so this LEGO creation will fit with my other modern electric hungarian trains. 1. This project contained an Afmpz, Bmpz/1 and Bmpz/2 waggon. I plan to extend this project in the following order: Bistro car, an another Bmpz (Economy, 2nd cass car), then Ampz (Buisness, 1st class car), then the last Bmpz car. Due to my limited money resources I built in used bricks, everything I could find at home, reducing my BL-orders to the really necessary level. Now my brick-containing boxes are totally depleted, I have around 20.000 parts at home, but there can't be found any black bricks, from 1×1 to 2×8 :) Some details: I managed to build with using plates and bricks the orange narrow strip around the door. The width of SNOT technique door is 4 plates (32 LDU) and four studs (80 LDU) which sums up to a total of 112 LDU. Since a stud is 20 LDU, and half stud is 10 LDU, with a little stress and putting the top dark red slopes on jumpers above the windows I was able to give a really solid and massive end to the cars. Locomotive has a built in PF-battery box, while it runs using 9V-motors. PF is for front lights, the ploarity sensitive modded PF-leds are connected to polarity-switches (showing the top of it with my finger) which enables the manual change of lights, without draining the batteries with PF-receiver. The only thing I couldn't solve the B-end of the locomotive - since I'm using my old Taurus design, I can't put the narrow red and grey strip to the SNOT used on the front. I tried to paint it first since I don't like to connect plates with decals, but I don't have the real sense to do it properly - maybe I leave it dark-red and black, maybe I finish with painting, idk really, what to do with it (but no, I'm not afraid of a little paing, decal or electric mod - you could know this if you are following my topic for a while :) ). Waggons are connected basically with 5 stud long technic thin liftarms, and the train has usual magnets on both end. I found out that using only two 9V motors on the locomotive will shorten really my motors life, especially while pushing long cars in the sharp corners, so I put one 9V motor under the driver waggon as well. If I'll have the money to extend the train, I plan to add a PF-train motor electrified from it's 9V brother. After I finished the train, I depleted my brick mines more, and started to build the bistro car as well: Your critics and comments always welcome, so don't hesitate to share your thoughts.

Hello zephyr, We operate our exhibition layout just like you described in the first post. When playing with kids of course you don't want to wire all the blocks to electrify your tracks, but if you decide to do is on events, too, it is worth to create some extended 9V-cables and set up 3 or 4 block (usually each station means one block, if you have a double-track line, then each station means two blocks, one for inner, one for outer line, with insulated crossings). Unfortunately it needs really lots of human resource, but it is a really funny and enjoyable way to operate a layout, instead of leaving one train going around. :) Each block signals to the other operator with working signals (light or the old one), which tellj the neighbouring operator, when it is free to enter your section.

of course, you may ask, I plan to use them as 9V train motors, I plan to connect with copper plates the wheels on one side, with other plate on the other side, and then connect the two polarities to the cable of the PF train motor. With this mod I can replace old and expansive 9V train motors with replaceable, cheaper and strogner PF-ones. I really need motors for my heavy 8W trains, but I can't afford to buy 9V motors always, with these metal wheels I can maintain my fleet much more cheaper.

where can I order these wheels?! Does they work with recent PF train motor? I mean as far as I understood from the conversation the "normal" sized wheels are a little bit smaller than LEGO ones - can PF train motor bodies pass over crossings without getting stuck on the crossing? I plan to use these wheels to power PF-trainmotors.

My solution for doors in my Končar train (train on the right side): Mechanism:

Hi all, after creating really tons of 8W Hungary-related trains, both in Digital Designer and for real, I'd like to introduce a 6W creation of mine, inspired by the old classic 9V Metroliner set. I can't even remember where I got those Metroliner front parts with stickers, but I discovered them couple of weeks ago, and I decided to do something with them. Create something, which makes people remember the Metroliner Set, but something, which fits to my standards - a modern train, if possible with low floor. So, my result is a three-waggon metroliner Talent (got his name because I tried to design windows and doors as they appear on Bombardier Talent EMUs and DMUs), using two 9V train motors and shared (Jacobs) boogies with small train wheels between the carriages. Other pictures avaliable following these URLs: http://www.brickshel...troliner/01.jpg http://www.brickshel...er/img_4797.jpg http://www.brickshel...er/img_4807.jpg http://www.brickshel...er/img_4812.jpg

Thanks for nice and detailed review, I really want to place my first order with the metal rails, but I have to wait. But it deserves to wait for it.

My perspective is that LEGO is not a toy just like playmobil, but something you can use for your endless imagination. Maybe the trains looks a little bit better with the one-piece nose, but those kids will never experience following the instructions how to build something from little, common parts, as they could build it with the 7938 set. Just put the big piece on the end, and you are done. And you could never use that piece for anything else. On the other hand - you could open the hinge-glass part on the 7938 train, which gives more playability to the train. Maybe AFOLs don't open it on shows or for their own pleasure at home, but for kids it's important. I'm also still sorry for the completely lack of train doors in the last years, or solutions like openable double-deck car roof.

Very well spoken, zephyr. As a train-enthusiast AFOL I always encourage not only TFOLs, but kids with 6-10 years visiting our exhibitions to build, imagine their own, starting with their one city set to explore their possibilities, and if there is enough time, I can show them some building tricks, too. I'm really sad with the new City passanger train, after the very good red commuter train they created something uncreative again, and if basic train sets doesn't serve to expand kids and TFOLs imagination well, we, the community should do something about it.

thanks for everyone for your comments and ideas about how to drive this monster. I'm sure that only 9V-based solution could do this, even if I remove itnerior it will remain around 5 kgs, and XL motors are powerful, but slow, Idk how to make it run fast.

You can use tiles, one plate goes on the plate of the train track, and the tile goes on this plate. Just make sure, that you press it down enough, if not connected properly train motor may pick it up.

I was away from here for a while - last months spent with work and LEGO-exhibitions, but now I would like to present my new Croatia-related LDD-MOC, the electric motor unit built by Koncar, HZ 6112. I'm so glad that HZ and ZET could by some railway products manufactured in Croatia, unfortunately our last great railway vechile manufacturer, Ganz-MÁVAG is not existing anymore, so the only thing we can do is buy trains from different countries. So, this prototype HZ 6112 (as I heard, HZ ordered 44 new trains, 16 electric suburban, 16 electirc regional and 12 diesel regional motor unit) was always bothering me, since I met it two years ago in Zagreb - easy to build sides, but very difficult front design, with narrow patterns and lots of curves. I always loved to design difficult trains, but I really spent long time with this. So, here it is: View from the front: Entire train: Doors could be opened manually, many of our kid visitors missed this option from my FLIRT trains: I made some screenshots from LDD to make SNOT-techniques a little more visible, colouring them pink and purple. Door opening mechanism (it's a little bit tricky, but could be opened that way): Half-plate space filled with brackets, under them panel 1×4×1 to leave space for the power functions led going to the technic brick: Rounded things everywhere, while front is narrowing: Black pattern's ending next to the windows, black highlighted with pink, white with purple. Some cheese slopes missing here, LDD doesn't allow to put them there but it works fine in reality: Holder for luggage, handrails around the doors (not exactly the difficult pattern like on the train, but quite similar design): And now... I'm looking for sponsors to build it. :)

omg omg, soon there will be larger radius metal curves, can't wait for it to happen, since I built my first FLIRT train I'm waiting for it. \o/

Just use plates or tiles on their edges, on the baseplate or on some ballast, like this (if you want normal gauge, just leave 5 studs visible between plates): http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/OtherTrainMOC/StadlerGTW/img_2362.jpg

I would liek to share one more hungarian track-related MOC this year, the freight tram of the Budapest Transport Limited. I built this MOC years ago, but somehow I never took pictures of it, so now I did it. The Budapest Transport bought these freight cars in the early years of the XX. century, some of them are now more than 100 years old, but they are still running. They are used to transport tram bogies between tram garages or clean the tracks when it's heavily snowing. There is some SNOT technic used in the small tram, the whole thing is built on a 9V train motor. The pantograph is built using one string part with rounded plates on its ends.

Thanks for the idea, I'll think about it, but I don't know the specification for SBrick and it's current limit. When I coupled my two FLIRTs together (8 motors and 8 kg-s) it took around 5 ampers from the track on 9V, I guess this train will need it too. Using any remote system as SBrick or original PF-receiver is limited by the current capacity of it parts (and if using one battery box I'm really afraid of burning the power function cable).

I finished the train in LEGO Digital Designer, here are some pictures and details, and driver's cab for Stefaneris, too. :) After finishing it in LDD I started to think about how to make such a train moving. Building all the details (including the expensive-looking dark blue floor with tiles and jumpers) the train will include 10114 parts in 254 lots. (Looking for sponsors :D ) After a quick estimation, it will be around 6 or 7 kg-s, which means I can't make it move with powerfunctions due to the current limit of the receiver units. So solution should be 9V based - but truly said if I'll ever have the money for the train, I won't have it for at least six of 9V train motors which need quite lot maintaince if you want to run your train at events a lot, so I plan to use two PF train motors attached to one 9V. Second bogie will be 9V, one of the PF ones will be the first bogie and the other one is the third, of course all this system doubled at the other end of the EMU. Roof solution with SNOT-ted and and not SNOT-ted parts: Cafe-corner: