Ashi Valkoinen

Wow, good you promised and posted the video around christmas, so I didn't miss this thread. Really good building skills here to create something in 70 studs length and 7 stud width. The boogies are 1B1, aren't they? The first and fourth axles can turn out from the train motor, or they can slide a little bit to make it run on curves?

ScotNick, I made a quick google search, but of course, nothing result. I found only one picture, with keywords Modellbau Messe 2014 Wien, the KISS is in the background: http://www.apfelblick.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/modellbaumesse-wien-4.jpg As far as I can see, pattern made smooth by stickers, but if you can give me contact to the author, please send it to me.. :) Sergio, it should be strong enough, i use the same design on my Siemens Taurus locomotive to make the roof sloped (the upper floor's sloped wall). Two hinge parts should be enough for it, but to keep the wall in its place I can add more hinges with sacrificing seats. But of course, these 64 stud long waggons need IRL testing, but I used all the tricks I learnt from my previous FLIRT-project and 60 stud long waggons to design the train for running.

As posted right above me, it would be fine for us, train modellers, but people always keep forgetting that LEGO trains are sold for kids, and all the train modellers mean still a fragment of buyers compared to the kids. Re-releasing metal rails and 230V adapters will mean that - according to many european countries' regulations - these train sets could be only sold 14+ or 16+. Keeping PF and introducing the new power pick up element only for the train modeller community will be buisness suicide for TLC. And don't forget, that if you put current into the rails, but you want to keep moving more trains on it with your PF speed regulator, it means that without changing the voltage in the rails for better performance (more train running) you need more current, with L-scale trains obviously far more dangerous than H0 or TT scales (even if it is only 9V). I accidentally met an electric shock from an LGB-layout, I don't wish it for anyone :D ) I think for the LEGO-purists train fan it would be the best to have original LEGO metal tracks, DCC-system and increased current limitation of adapters and receivers, but practically a third-party company will make it, if ever.

Worked for me, too, in my Koncar tram, receiver were hidden behid trans black panels, however useful range decreased by approx. 30-40%.

I think people refer motor's strength incorrectly to its speed - of course you can make a faster 9V-powered train without the weight of the battery box and additional power function parts. But of course - PF train motor is stronger. As I had written to the thread (was it this one? :D) I found the most useful to mix the two systems. Picking up current via 9V train motor and attaching a power functions one to the old motor gives you more then double traction, but only using one expensive 9V motor.

Hello, Yes, I wanted to add the narrow light-blue strip, but after trying it in LDD I decided this detail could be sacrificied and I built some SNOT chesse slopes in it. But after the Holiday I'll try it again, maybe looks better with the waggon finished. And no, I haven't designed it, it's still using my old FLIRTs sand-green control panel, I'll modify this too, now I have this website for interior, so I don't have to travel to Vienna-West to make some photos: http://www.kaemena36...n/WestbahnTour/

Hello everyone, I'd like to share with you my new WIP MOC, which is the six waggon double-deck electric motor unit of Westbahn, the Stadler KISS (or it the type's former name, Dosto). I designed this train using my Stadler FLIRT modell's nose, but completely changed the other parts. The KISS trains has normal waggons, while FLIRTs do have Jacobs-boogies, and three waggon of KISS is 75 metres long, as one four-section FLIRT-train. I've only designed the first (and last waggon), with detailed interior, of course. For indoor lights, front-tail lights there are designed free spaces, but I'm afraid I'll never face the problem, hiding all the PF wires without consuming space from the passangers because of the cost of such a train*. (*Of course, if anyone wants to sponsor this train, don't hesitate to contact me :D ) An overall LDD-picture: And you can find more details following these URLs (pictures are wider than allowed sizes for the EB forums): http://www.brickshel...KISS/wip_08.png http://www.brickshel...KISS/wip_09.png http://www.brickshel...KISS/wip_10.png http://www.brickshel...KISS/wip_11.png I guess the whole trains weight will be around 6 kilogramms, so a really clever solution for driving it will be needed, if ever built. The waggons with driver cab will could have a 9V train motor, and a PF train motor connected to it, and maybe one or two middle waggons should be powered like this. But more than 800 mA will be needed to drive it, so special speed regulator can't be avoided.

You know, it's always interesting to see the same locomotive built by different people, comparing their solutions for fronts, slopes, pantographs, etc. Maybe raised the topic starter will find some interesting or desireable solution to implement, or just develop those ideas which caught his/her attention. For example, maybe he/she will decide to find something different for glasses, and replace black tile with transparent solution.

I would like to share to TRAXX locos built in Hungary, just for inspiration: first, MÁV-Trakció TRAXX, the blue one left from the black-dark red Siemens Taurus: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/Exhibitions/2014-12-Mammut/dsc_2391.jpg http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/Exhibitions/2014-12-Mammut/img_4469.jpg second, SBB Cargo TRAXX from a different builder, http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/Exhibitions/2014-12-Mammut/img_3944.jpg

Well, this topic coming up every quarter year, but here is my opinion: I prefer 9V for exhibitions. You can run trains on 40 metres long layouts, without even getting up, no need of changing batteries, keeping double amount of rechargeable batteries to make trains run all the time. The reason I like PF is the strength of those train motors. The two PF motors under my Siemens Taurus locomotive are now 4 years old, in these four years the loco pulled almost always heavier load than these motors were produced to pull and they are working still fine without any maintaince. I can't say this about 9V motors, electric contacts should be cleaned, they are getting old, I can't afford to replace them with totally new ones. Now I'm running trains with dual-system: 9V train motor is picking up current, and it's connected to a PF-train motor. So instead of using two expensive motors I can spare one, and I hope PF train motors will be available for long years. (And in last case: with a little modding you still can replace the inner small motor of 9V train motor with a PF-inner motor, and since keeping contacts clean you can make run your 9V train motor "forever")

There are 12 train motors in the three trains, two 9V motors and two PF motors attached to them under each train. I didn't make any measurements, but if the friend comes who has instruments for it, we will do it.

Once there was a dream about coupling all hungarian FLIRTs together. For real trains there were a triple synchron test - and now I finally did it with my LEGO FLIRTs, using two speed regulators and 230V AC adapters paralell connected to the 9V loop. The train was 4.8 metres long. \o/ LEGO FLIRTs: real ones:

Hi all folks, I'd like to make a try with the old 12V train system, simulating a different traction voltage area on our club layouts. The important information I need but I couldn't find on the internet, the perfomance of the old 12V speed regulator. As some of you may now, we are running 8W long trains on layouts, up to 3-4 kg of weight. If anyone has measured voltage and maximum current on the inner conducting tracks, please share with me. If 12V adapter is simply not strong enough, I have to look up for different solutions.

Truly said, collecting topics manually will fail again and again, when the person or people doing it - free - become busy and they won't have time to do it anymore. The root of the problem - I think - is in the structure of eurobrick forums, we have the LEGO Train Tech section here, and all topics are just mixed here. There should be some sub-forums, like "MOC", "Set Reviews", "Events", "Maintance", "Softwares" and "Layout discussions", and maybe the larger ones like "MOC" with mmore subforums. It would be nice, if everyone had one topics for each subforum, not for every train, LDD-draw etc. Topics opened for every train MOC are almost impossible to find a couple of months later. I can remember lot of threads, pictures of great locos in my mind, but I can't check them again, because I can't remember for example the serial number of the MOC, written in the topic title. So if there are any volunteers, we should organise all Train Tech threads by some categories (mine above are just examples), and ask users to maintain their topics. Maybe moderators or site admins could even merge topics into each other, but I'm sure it will mess up some topics from the same user discussed paralel.

It could be published as 6W, I see no point why all the train can't be one stud narrower. With the locomotive, one Bmpz and one Afmpz waggon it could be a nice train set.

And the last creation of mine for this year will be a simple passanger car with driver's cab. I have an intercity train with my Siemens Taurus locomotive for two years, but it caused always problems to change direction with my train. Now this problem is solved, no more going around with the loc, just simply starting to reverse direction. This type of waggon were bought by MÁV (Hungarian State Railway) from Germany, one of the so called halberstadter waggons. The original red colour has been switched to the traditional blue-white colouring of MÁV, however, suprisingly the front didn't get the usual yellow colouring. These waggons are compatible with V43 3×××, TRAXX and Taurus locomotives, but unfortunately they are not used at the front of the trains by daily operation. The original one: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/0-HungarianTrains/Waggon-3/mav_vezerlo_fazekas_attila_picture.jpg More pictures:

Well, truly said, the proper color could be maerks blue. Medium blue is not blue enough, traditional blue is too dark, however doors' colour is LEGO dark blue. So, not a cheap train. :) And all of my trains are 8W, maybe un half year I'll have a 8W railjet ( ;) ), and all klub members building in 8W, 1:42. So no way to use 7W again. :D

Thanks for sharing those layout and plans. for the last exhibition I operated the Western Railway Station and two mainlines, and the other end station was operated by another LUG member. Yes, we are using "block" system and some standards for it. Before the event we plan how to display our sections, standards goes to provide connections, using the original LEGO train track geometry. In your section you can do whatever you want with the tracks, but at the edges you have to keep geometry standards. Each section or block is operated by different person (or if we experienceing lack of operators, one person could controll 2 or 3 neighouring sections), so a single train is driven by two or three person while it's running. That's why we have standards also for our 8W trains - to avoid accidentally broken trains. (For example, fragile or special trains* could be run only by their owner, if 9V, then only in those sections where owner can controll it, or it should use PF or RC. *: There are some trains which cannot pass two switches in a row, or some other geometries, but all our running models should be able to run on every track geometry created from standard tracks.) That double loop with all the track ballast is wonderful. I'm wondering if there are any trains to fragile to run on those track, those are only built from straight track segments, so how they could brake? Thanks, and feel free to join discussion. :)

Very impressive, maybe the best design I've seen so far. What do you think, can it hold two of my Stadler FLIRTs? (around 8 kg-s :D )

Hi all, I'd like to share the pictures and videos of our last event, which was held between the 10th and 12th of October. We participated Middle-Europe's largest model railway exhibition with participants from 7 other countries, displaying our train-based 38 metres long layout. The most popular building of the display was the Budapest - Western Train Station, where train tracks end in the building, without the possibility to avoid trains turning back. The reason I post it here to share and get experience with other TFOLs and AFOLs who creates train-based displays. As far as I've seen it on Brickshelf and Flickr, most train LUGs creates one or more loops around cities, where trains are running around for couple of circles, then train goes of to some storage track and another goes in. We started to create layouts without loops in 2012, which means constant taking care of trains is necessary, not to let them run into other trains or leave tracks at their ends. We use 9V to run most of our trains, and the whole line is separated to couple of sections, driven separately with 9V speed regulators. We use polarity-sensitive PF LEDS to warn each other if our section is busy. That allows to run more train at the same time, and we try to simulate some realistic traffic on our rails. Please share with us how you design your big show displays, how do you control your trains, and what are priorities for an event for you. Pictures from my Brickshelf: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=548694 Videos of various trains running: Fun video, including almost all our passanger cars:

Well, good usage of airplane nose, but I think this train is to tall and will derail in curves at higher speeds. I suggest that the lower part of the airplane nose should be in the same level like the boogies, and removing the long wedge slopes.

I created an ideology for my 8W trains. LEGO train track gauge is 38 mm, but the distance between the edges of the train wheels are around 35-36 mm (due to this bogies can turn on sharp LEGO train track with less friction) and I use this 35-36 mm to scale for. With 8 stud wide trains we are around 1:41. which means 64-70 stud long passanger cars.

As I wrote couple of months before, Stadler ordered two FLIRTs from me, after delivering the two FLIRTs built for them ( http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=546856 ) I finished the yellow-green coloured GySEV/ROeEE FLIRT with motorisation and lights. This FLIRT doesn't differ from my previous one, only colours: entire side is dominated by yellow and green strips, and seats inside are not blue but gray. It was really hard to find approx 100 old light gray seats (and another 100 for Stadler's modell). Now I have three FLIRTs in total, with different colouring, two FLIRTs by Stadler and one FLIRT by them from previous "era" (different scale). Now I have to do something about power supply to 9V tracks, three FLIRTs coupled together means 12 train motors and around 12 kg-s... Video of synchron-test for three different hungarian FLIRTs (that's the thing I'd like to make with LEGOs): Pictures: (Folder here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=548194 )

Very clever build, fit all PF elements into that small place. Maybe if you use a simple PF train motor, putting wheels only to one axle holder (creating a 1A axle arrangement) you can save some place for LEGO battery box.

Lovely story, thanks for sharing it with us!