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Zerobricks

Eurobricks Archdukes
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  1. Zerobricks
    Of course, video and share the LDD file. And about the color scheme...Its different
  2. Zerobricks
    Works for me. Ok, lets try pictures again:
  3. Zerobricks
    After taking apart my class tractor I was looking at the new hubs, and got a great idea. Why not create a proper tatra concept with the 62.4 mm wheels. Fiddling around in LDD I created a 10x10 concept model: The main features I wanted to have are as following: Seperated drive axle from the weight bearing axle - this way the friction is greatly reduced and efficiency improved Linked steering - realistic, simple and relaible solution for which steering angle is almost unaffected by suspension travel Leaf suspension - a simple leaf sprung suspension which allows smooth travel over bumps without weight transfer First the drive, as you can see the pivot axles are a stud off center of the cenetr drive axle, therebye carrying all the weight. You can also see the 9L link resting on the brown 3.2mm bar acting as a reinforced leaf spring. Notice the half a stud offset between left and right side wheels. Looking at the whole chassis you can see front and rear suspension are pretty much the same, the only difference bing the front steers and has one wheel per axle, while the rear has dual wheels for maximum traction Steering uses small linear actuators and links in order to steer the axles. The steering angles can be adjusted by steering lever length and position of the linkage on the red steering swing. This way the first axle steers at a higher angle than the second. And finally here is the whole truck. I know it does not look very Tatra-ish, but I couldn't resist the bright color (vomit) Rear view: I finished up the truck with a working steering wheel and a fake V8 engine. Here are the final stats: Length: 37 cm Width: 16 cm Height: 15,5 cm Weight: 1200 grams Gear ratio: 1:2,78 powered by a single 1 XL motor Expect a video of the truck soon P.S. I really hope this model will inspire more people to build models at such scale.
  4. Zerobricks
    Use the new 3L worm gear. It has much lower backslash.
  5. Zerobricks
    Use a small pneumatic piston next to a spring.
  6. Zerobricks
    Like I wrote, Sbrick can be set to set each axle's steering angle and mode. If you dont need steered axle, you can always make a non-steered version. Also steering a long truck via normal axles will cause issues due to axle flexibility. This way everything is decentralized for maximum flexibility.
  7. Zerobricks
    I got this idea a while ago, when I first got Sbricks. Why not make modular, expendable system of axles and chassis pieces in order to create a system for offroad truck construction. Here is what I sketched up in LDD. First we have a basic axle. It uses 2 XL motors for drive, independet suspension and steering with servo Because we need a minimum of 2 axles, I designed a double chassis holder with two battery boxes: If we combine 2 axles with the double battery holder, we get the most basic configuration, a 4x4x4: In order to expand on the system I designed a single battery chassis extension: Finally we can combine the three basic modules into a 6x6x6: Or even a 10x10x10: In theory there is no limit how far you can go, but I think anything over 12x12 might cause too much strain on the chassis. Important details: - Axles are designed for Claas wheels, which are not in LDD, hence the wheels above may look small - Each axle can use any kind of a combiantion of number of springs and hardnesses for best flexibility and weight support - Each axle is meant to also house and S brick, which allows you fine steering angle control in order to support any kind of configuration or steering mode (only front, only rear, all wheel steering, crab mode) - For now this is still a concept, so I will relase the LDD file once I build, test and polish the concept
  8. Zerobricks
    Here is the new, small chassis: The buwuzzes are placed at a slight angle in order not to colide with rear wheels: I took the chasis outside for a run and the results are equally impressive as scary. At top speed you can easily go out of blutooth range in a matter of seconds. At cornering the tyres are subjected to really high forces, especially the front ones who do the steering and drive. After 15 min of driving there are already some slight marks on them. Even though I was driving the chassis on a nice clean playground, some dust and what seems to be grass plant oil stuff got in the hubs, increasing the friction. At home I took them apart and cleaned them. I can see now why Lego is not keen in making fast or outdoor models, the wear and tear, along the energies involved at high speed is simply too much for brocks to handle. Work on model will be resumed, though the end model may end up performing too extreme for normal indoor use.
  9. Zerobricks
    Here is what I came up with: Sadly there is no way I can fit 2 more RC motors in there, but all of the 4 motors there will be fully utilized. In the end i decided to go for model X and challenge myself with the falcon doors. I also found a way to control the 4 motors via Buwizz app in a way that also lets me torque vector the left and right side handed motors for better control.
  10. Zerobricks
    I played around with Buwizz and figured a way to control two at once, so that i can control 4 RC motors directly. Think I will go down in scale to 56 mm wheels and a symetrical 4x4. Think I will end up with a model X :)
  11. Zerobricks
    They can be used for shock absorbers for heavy, slow vehicles such as trucks.
  12. Zerobricks
    Wow, good idea about 8258 B model! I'm impressed. And the 'mog looks like it just came from a Polish trucktrial, awesome.
  13. Zerobricks
    I still have a problem with Buwizz's overload protection going off under hard performance. And I can't imagine a 3 kg heavy model going some 15-20 km/h without suspension, it would shake itself apart.
  14. Zerobricks
    Here is an update of the model I finished the chassis and connected Sbricks and used Buwizzes as power source: In low speed the motors have enough power to just barely create some wheelspin. Switching Buwizzes to normal or fast mode makes all 4 wheels to freespin and massive acceleration. BUT accelerating and braking the model too rough triggers Buwizz's protections and resets them to slow mode. The massive accelearation and decelearition also takes a massive toll in U joints, popping them and flatting heads of the CVs. Also the new hubs and wheels have way too much room to play, casing extreme wobbling and vibrations at high speeds. As much as I want to continue I cant afford to add more weight to already overloaded driveline. I have following options to resume this project: 1. Exchange RC motors for less powerfull PF motors and continue at this scale 2. Build at a smaller scale, yet with same amount of motors - model will be a lot more crammed but performance will be even crazier with same power at smaller scale 3. Build at smaller scale with reduced amount of RC motors or PF motors with more features and details, but lower performance I am leaning towards option 2, because I really want performance and smaller scale would give even more power to weight ratio. What do you guys think?
  15. Zerobricks
    Ripsaw lasted some 4 hours on a single charge. I will see what happens when I have a rolling chassis ready. I plan to load with with some 2 kilograms and see what happens. In worst case scenario if joints break under heavy braking and accelerating I will smply use PF motors, like 2XL in the back and 2M in front (with correct gearing of course).
  16. Zerobricks
    Regarding the question of too many motors/not enough power: I think these 3 will do
  17. Zerobricks
    So many questions, I really like that. First why there is something in the way of steering? Answer is not that simple. Instead of one springs I used a pneumatic piston. That piston has a square edge in which the steering arm kept getting stuck. That is why I used a parallel thin arm in order to keep it away from the cylinder: Second I am using an 8 tooth gear for steering instead of the usual 12 one for next reasons: - CV joints would not support such high steering angle - From what I learned in the past anything over 20 degrees in steering will be useless at high speeds and leads to massive oversteer or in worst case spinouts - Porshe's rim is so deep it doesnt even support any higher angles: As you can see here I have some 20 degrees of steering at 90 degrees turned axle lock even with the beams in the way: And without wheels: I could try use 6L steering links, but: - that would ruin my steering geometry - steering angle itself would not be any much higher - 6L links have much more play than 5L suspension arms which are attached with pins. I need suspension and steering as stiff as possible. @Didumos69 Your suspesnion does look good, but you are forgetting several things: - Motors on my model take A LOT of room, so I cant afford suspension that is so wide - I want to keep suspension as close to original setup with almost straight springs as possible - Front and rear suspension will be more or less identical. And if you thought front was crammed, look at the rear: There is only half a stud between motor outputs and joints powering the rear wheels thanks to all the motors. @Epic Technic I plan to do a detailed video about enabling LDD dev. mode in a few days, so everyone can not only know how to unlock it, but also know how to use all the hidden features.
  18. Zerobricks
    Yeah, I can pretty much place any brick anywhere in developer mode. Thanks.
  19. Zerobricks
    Hi everyone. As soon as I got the Buwizz I wanted to build a very powerfull, yet model powered by RC motors. At first i wanted to build a trophy truck which uses Claas's wheels, but I decided to put that project on halt, because I got a better inspiration. As everyone knows Tesla makes fully electric cars packed with all kinds of features and gadgets. I want to do the same, integrating the following features: All wheel drive with 6 RC motors (2 front and 4 in the rear) - I learned from my previous record breaking Buwizz powered RWD driven model that when it comes to braking you need front wheel drive too for motors to act as brakes. Spring supported pneumatic suspension - A combination of pneumatic and normal spring suspension which allows the ride height to be set at an optimum level to keep the drive axles as straight as possible, therebye removing any vibrations or losses Remoe controlled compressor - Using Sbrick order to adjust the suspension system of the model Detailed compact double wishbone suspension - Using the 5L suspension arms, new hubs and wheels I was able to make driven, steered suspesnion with brake calipers Working lights and blinkers - Using Sbrick I plan to make all the lights including blinkers work Motorized doors and trunk - This way I can remotely open the doors and trunk Central entertainment system - In my case I want to stick the speed computer in the center console to measure the speed of the model *Crash avodiance system - if I will be able to get an Sbrick plus and a couple of WeDo proximity sensors I can come up with an automatic steering and braking system for the model Detailed exterior and interrior - As name suggest the model is planned to be made in 1:8 scale with as much deatil as possible. And lastly performance - Since I plan to use a total of 6RC motors driving the Porshe wheels with 1:1 ratio from the outermost motor output, i expect the model even though it will be probably around 3kg heavy to perform very good. Special attention was given to the steering system in order to keep it as stiff as possible. I hope to see a top speed of 15 km/h I already started working on the front axle, I will post the picture tomorrow. Meanwhile here is the prototype made in LDD As you can see on one side of the suspension wishbones I am using a normal spring, while the other side uses a small pneumatic cylinder. Suspension geometry is set in such way the springs and cylinders end up as far away from the hub as possbile, since Porsche's wheels are just so deep. Also notice the 1x4 half width liftarms used to support the springs. I will post photographs of the WIP as I go along. Wish me luck
  20. Zerobricks
    I can make an LDD file with all the changed elements marked
  21. Zerobricks
    As promised, here is the picture of the underside with with all the mechanics You can see the origiinal brake pieces I used in the wheels: Size comparison of a minifig to the finished model: And the remote used to control the model: Anyone else sees something weird here? Regarding comments about height. There is no space left between top of the axles and lower body of the Porsche. Front end has only a stud left and the rear around two, and the axles also need room to flex. Bringing body lower to the axles would require a total rebuild of the whole Porsche chassis, with the gearbox and fake engine ending up in the way. Besides the body looks so high due to the original high fenders which I widen by two studs to give them enough room for wheels not to get stuck.
  22. Zerobricks
    One suggestion. Keep gearing to minimum and instead use as long as possible steering arms. This way you have much less play in the system and accurate steering control.
  23. Zerobricks
    Here is the promised video: More pictures of the details and underside coming soon
  24. Zerobricks
    98585 You are welcome
  25. Zerobricks
    Knob gears?
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