Zerobricks

I do not understand why they used portal hubs for a non-motorized model. They could easily use the new black hubs and the the steering point much closer to the wheel center.

Yes, you can get it a stud closer by using parts 27490 or 87082 as bearing inside the tyre and than use a 42003 as steering arm. This will also give you ackermann steering geometry if built correctly.

Check my leopard 4*4, its using two servos in a very stiff setup.

Depends on the weight you put on it. Front links are reinforced with a 5L beam, so they can take quite a lot of punishment.

That's up to you, how you will build the axles. Seems to me you are trying to combine a bit of mine and a bit of Sariel's s setup. You have to experiment and find a way how to make it work.

Gear ratio of what?

Hi I used such steering solution successfully here: For steering I used 2 mini linear actuators which gave system lots of steering power and stiffness. Check the LDD file here (use developer mode and disable physics check before opening it): www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/mini-tatra-8x8/Tatra%2062.4%208x8%20LDD%20DEV.lxf

Interesting topic. If I check my history at first models were very basic, with minimum details: After switcing to mostly studless and power functions they became more functional After getting the collection of 2010 sets with new panels, frames, motors, etc, the style changed Models became more detailed, with less gaps, (generally) bigger and more rigid, thanks to the new frame pieces. : And in the last 3 years the models became ever more detailed, realistic, the design process was changed to include Lego Digital Designer in order to test build the models before building them in real life. Addition of the new pieces, control and power sources like Buwizz and Sbrick allowed the models to be even more functional, compact and robust: Of course also the quality of photography and videos improved along with the style, which became more streamlined and professional. So in short, my models generally became asthetically more complete, with a reduced number of gaps in bodywork and with more additional details, while keeping high performance due to simplified and robuster powertrains. Function-wise they became much more robust and powerfull thanks to the new pieces, building techniques and power sources. The number of pieces also increased to about 4000 pieces for the Dominator TRS and currently the biggest limiting factors are the size of the wheels and the amount of required panels. I no longer concetrate on function - only, but also give a lot of thought to the finished look of the models, I am trying to come up with new body lines and details in order to make the models more organic and less square-ish. The process of designing the models shifted from simple picking of random pieces out of the bin to Lego Digital Designer, which I use to lay down the basic functions of the model. Only after I got the basic design ready in LDD, I start building in real life, perfecting the real and LDD design as I build along.

I beg to differ:

It looks really great with the studded chassis, custom wheels and the small details. While it does look good, I think mechanically-wise you could improve the functions: Redesign the driveline so the driveshaft doesn't also bear the weight and suspension forces of the truck Increase gear ratio on half axle to reduce torque flex/sway of the truck Steering sytsem looks weak (pinballs can fall out) and the wheel angles are affected by suspension travel, since steering and suspension points do not coincide. Real tatras use a different steering setup with steering links placed almost parallel to the chassis to minimize affect of suspension on steering angles.

Maybe you can build a different set meanwhile? That 9398 on the bottom looks lonely

Where do you get these parts, they are awesome! You think you could get some fender panels in red or black?

These remind me of LDD developer model renders when you turn on the function which colors each brick with a different color. I really like these, they are an ultimate expression of Lego color vomit... in a good way that is

I checked your LXF file and I think your gears are not well braced. The first 20 tooth gear going from the RC motor will skip... It's easy to make stuff in LDD only, but I suggest you to always build in real life in parallel. At least that's how I do it :)

This may be a bit offtopic but I was browsing brickset and noticed that from 2012 the number of released technic set/year have seadily been increasing from average 10 sets/year (2009-2012) to record breaking 14 sets this year! We should be be seeing 15 sets next year if the trend continues. I think we can safely assume there is an increasing demand for Technic sets. And I think it's related to the relase of the power functions and the new panels, frames and such bricks which allowed for the now modern style of building the sets.

Hi Your base plates are not aligned. Use the Connected selection tool and reattach all the problematic baseplates. Best regards

I'm just gonna say it like this. Untill about 2 years ago I was very active on this forum, posting daily replies. But than something changed in the whole society, everyone became soft, easy to offend and a victim. And I think this is also reflected on this forum, people are much more easy to be insulted by other's opinions and letting their emotions take over. As other suggested, think before you reply, is the argument really worth fighting for? Simply try to accept people have different opinions and THAT IS FINE, just as there are people with different orientations, races, cultures, etc..

I think combo of Buwizz and rubber pads really make this set much more capable and fun. Thanks for the shout out, Grum

Thank for all your support through the years. Best regards

Hi After some fiddling I came up with this idea for a single crank W16 engine: Each crank uses a #3 connector to comepnsate for the piston offsets: And Finally the top view of the engine: Hopefully someone can build this baby in real life and provide feedback LDD file: https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/w16-engine/W16 engine.lxf

Leave spring as it is, but just extend the suspension arms deeper inside as much as possible. This will stiffen up the suspension.

Not impressed, seems like a downgraded version of the power functions. Only things I like is that it recognizes the motors and the bluetooth which is not sensitive to light.

Good idea, but there are lots of flaws: - The 12 tooth gear meshing with turntable can slip out - The 12 tooth gear from the L motor is very badly supported and can cause big stress on the motor output - Whole assembly is very inefficient, since the vertical drive axle has to support the force of the vehicle, the torque created by the wheel trying to spin, the force created by the wheels pushing it forward and the forces created by steering system trying to steer wheels - all of these create friction on the spinning axle.

The eyes

Thanks for the amazing positive responses guys. I might have found another way meanwhile. Regardless, thank you for such awesome positive responses and offers.