Meatman

Reminds me of the transmission that crowkillers did earlier in the year with the driving rings not touching directly. Of course this is completely different though.

Unless TLC goes to a different type of power functions motor, I highly doubt we'll be seeing any type of vehicle that can actually move at a decent speed.

What is the story with the instructions anyways? Where can they be found or when and are they free or will there be a small charge? Anyone?

I think the reason why those 2 models work is because the speed never changes because the wheels are never actually "steered" the steering is actually a pivot point in the middle of the vehicle thus keeping the drivetrains consistently turning at the same speed. I know that I am no where as advanced in technic building as some of you guys here, could you explain exactly how it is possible to have the front and the rear working together if they are not turning at the same speed(Like when being steered)? It seems to me that eventually one or the other is going to cause something to fail with no 3rd to make up the difference. I could see this working if maybe a tire slips every so often.

Anio, one question, If the front and rear are engaged and the car is driven in a circle, what is preventing the gears from binding up at some point? wouldn't the front and rear be turning at different speeds when steered? I know if it is driven in a straight line it would be fine. I was under the impression that a 3rd diff box was always needed to prevent this. Much like the new 8110 Unimog. Or maybe I am just reading too much into this.

I don't think that we'll be seeing too many studded technic models in the future.

do you mean that it is offset to the right side? TLC did this to avoid the tires rubbing the front fenders when steered and comprssed at the same time. I don't like it either.

Anio, I thought that the car could only be switched to either front or rear drive because of no middle differential?

Great Looking Backhoe! Do you have a video? It looks like Paul had a very impressive display on hand. Did they not have any type of barriers set up so people could not get close to your MOCs? It seems like it would be very easy for things to get touched or even stolen from tables. I imagine that there were large crowds?

I got my 8110 on Friday and it is a really great set, however, I am really disappointed with the offset with the front suspension. I understand why they did it like that to avoid rubbing in the front when the suspension was compressed while steering, but It is very noticeable and just looks like it was built incorrectly even though it isn't. I find it hard to believe that there was not a better solution to this.

I agree 100% this is the main reason why I find these contests to be rather stupid.

At least the background of the pictures is making them look fake.

I think these are fake.

There's nothing really confusing here. Industrial Designer built a high quality model and someone bought up the wheel covers shortly after an announcement of instructions. Capitalizing off of someone else's achievements is pretty lame IMO. But like you said, that's life.

"This car is made of 100% Lego parts and is in great condition. I did not spare any expense on the parts, the electric components and the tires alone cost more than $150. Overall the car turned out to be a great experience as it will teach you some basic things about cars while it makes a great model to display and play with."

No credit is being given to Jurgen for the model or instructions. LINK

Gekke, he has the prices for those parts in the link that he supplied. New Technic Shock Absorbers (4619319) = $1.91 ea. New Hub piece (4610378) = $1.04 ea. New Portal Axle housing (4610377) = $2.08 ea. New 94.3 x 38R tires (4610381) = $4.54 ea. New C-shaped pivot frame (4610379) = $2.25 ea. New cup to fit on above pivot (4610380) = $1.02 ea. people buying on bricklink have paid almost 3x the amount for some of these parts already! LINK Just look at THIS $7 for a shock that only cost $1.91? What a mark up.

I am not a big fan of the power functions either. Don't get me wrong, it is amazing what people have done with them and how some of the official Lego sets have incorporated them, but I just hate changing batteries. I would rather use a knob or crank to make functions work. There are some situations where they are a must, like in the new Unimog set.

You know, the more that I look at it, the more that I think you may be right. The image that really stands out to me is this one.

Paul did an amazing job with this model all around. The angles he achieved with the new panels are beautiful.

What is that yellow car? A Challenger?

Paul, you have proven yourself time after time and there is no need to let comments bring you down, your work is top notch. I actually didn't realize that was your design when I originally made this topic. I didn't put 2 and 2 together until DLuders made the topic about the chrome wheels and then noticed that you had a youtube link on your site for your new car and then it dawned on me. I think your design is very unique and from the video it appears to work extremely well. I certainly have never seen anyone do that before with the gearbox driving rings and clutch gears.

I had a blast with the kids building the 8070 Supercar.

There is a video up now of this transmission actually working

It also seems like more and more people are going the route of using the hard hollow 3mm tubing(similar to what the old style flex system used) and then cutting the tubing to whatever length they would like to create shapes or angles that they couldn't get with standard technic pieces. this method really takes the creativity out of building. Same thing goes with the 7mm ribbed tubing. I know TLC uses it in some of their models, but still. I think when people see a completed MOC, they appreciate it more if the vehicle's body style doesn't look like it was thrown together overnight with dozens of tubes cut to order.