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Sebeus I

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by Sebeus I

  1. Nice, I like the greenery, really adds some color to the scene. This will fit nicely in the Egypt layout .
  2. Thank you, Alas, I no longer seem to have the LDD file. It was originally uploaded on mocpages but since that website went down the files were lost. I do still have the MOC although I can't remember where I've put it.
  3. That is remarkable indeed, what a feat! Great job!
  4. Thank you, I'm afraid I didn't keep track of the changes, it wasn't very practical because most of the adaptations didn't work the first time. I might at some point create some kind of instructions, when it's completely finished perhaps. While I certainly agree that the stabiliser wing anchorages could use some work, I'm not very keen on losing the 1/4 circle slopes in order to create that cavity. But it is an interesting modification nonetheless. Thanks for sharing, I'll see what I can come up with for this area... That is strange indeed, I thought I had it on "private" on youtube so it could only be viewed via this page . What you're trying to do seems a bit cumbersome, a little dust is easily taken care of with a big soft paintbrush. I don't have a part list unfortunately. I would encourage building the original set first, that way you'll have a better understanding about what the possibilities are and who knows, you might come up with some other solutions.
  5. Perhaps . I've built one a very long time ago. Thanks! Actually she's less smooth than the previous version, which had half plate offsets as well. But the curve is a lot better. I want cannons, as much as possible!
  6. Thanks guys! That is correct, those and the top part of the cup are fixed in place with friction alone. I try to avoid this as much as possible but for some designs there's really no alternative. I'm working on a large Egyptian scene but decided to post this fragment separately because it doesn't match with the style and scale of the rest of the scene.
  7. If you consider the bowsprit, yes. A hull length to beam ratio of around 1/4 is good for a heavy battleship. I plan to have 4 studs spacing between gun ports, that would allow for a single deck broadside of 15 cannon. I did consider a 3-stud spacing, which would allow an gunline counting 18 cannon but it's not my intention to cram in as much cannon as I can . 4 stud spacing is fine. As the ship will have at least 2 dedicated gun decks, that amounts to 60 cannon already. There's some serious firepower coming this way .
  8. This project actually started around 9 years ago... So a few weeks ago I began anew. Since I no longer have the ambition to build a Black Pearl I went a little bigger with this one. I did not use half plate offsets like I did on the previous ship, to keep it simple. This results in the curvature looking a bit rough, especially at bow and aft. Since it's completely black I don't think that will be of much concern. A brown/reddish brown/dark brown hull is the dream but given the amount of slopes required, it just wouldn't be affordable. For the superstructure I will recycle my unfinished Lucretia II (second version of Lucretia), the big red one in the back of the picture; That one wasn't going to work out anyway, feel free to disagree but it is my feeling that a prefab hull just isn't suited to support complete double gun deck ships. I won't attempt that again at least. With a beam of 26 studs and a keel length of 100 studs, this ship will be the biggest one I've ever built. In terms of prefab hull reference she'll be the equivalent of a 9-midsection ship. Unlike the previous version, there will be no hold interior, the main reason for that is that, because of accessibility issues on a complex ship like this, it would simply be a waste of parts as no one would ever get to see that interior anyway. I decided to use the lower hold area for more structural reinforcements. The whole hull is a shell resting on the keel and supported by a series of bulkheads throughout the length of the ship. I'm currently looking into some weak parts on the aft but for the rest it is pretty sturdy already. I'm out of SNOT bricks for the moment, to complete the lower bulkheads but the plan is to completely close off the lower hold with the orlop deck (except for a few openings for the masts). While it would be perfectly possible to build interior on the orlop deck, I won't waste parts on that, given previously mentioned reason. A few planks in the center with a ladder to the gun deck at most. I haven't decided yet whether there will be 2 or 3 dedicated gun decks, I think she's a bit on the small side to become a 1st rate but we'll see how it evolves.
  9. Oh yes! The moment I saw that set I knew what to do with it.
  10. Not as interesting as the front, although perhaps it is for anyone who'd want to replicate it I guess .
  11. Thank you, the angled wedge bricks for the skirt I'm definitely going to look into.
  12. I was actually looking for a similar topic to the UCS Millennium Falcon mods tread but I couldn't find it. The main adaptation I did was the functional boarding ramp, as demonstrated below. It took me a while to figure it out but eventually found a solution where I didn't have to sacrifice too much of the original set. Other changes include; Bulkhead between cargo bay and crew quarters ladder connecting cargo bay, crew quarters and cockpit bunkbox behind pilot chair conical blaster anchorages on the hulll Light functionality This was very fun to build in. There's actually a small maintenance compartment above the bed but It's impossible to see without taking apart the upper hull. The ladder goes down to the crew quarters. Depending on the orientation of the ship, this is either a vertical or a horizontal shaft. The pilot chair can still rotate. The crew quarters, located below the pilot chair (in flying mode) isn't that much to talk about. The space is very limited. The structural beams within the ship limited the position of the platform. Fixing this will require some serious modifications. The cargo bay. I used to have shelves on the starboard side as well but had to remove them in order to fit the door-ramp mechanism. Like the crew quarters this area could also use some finishing touches but I haven't decided yet on which way to go here. One of the light bricks shines all the way through the ship interior (the other one only in the bunk box). To max out the available space in the crew quarters I had to place the pilot chair in it highest position. Therefor I had to change the energy shield shroud, which is located above the pilot, in order to have Boba Fett utilise his helmet gear. That's about it, feel free to make suggestions, I'm not finished with this one yet .
  13. Thanks, that was indeed some calculation, I designed this one on paper .
  14. This wall painting depicts a scene based on this youtube video. Anyone who has a feline companion may have observed the knocking-down-cups-from-the-table syndrome many cats seem to be showing. And while there is probably extended scientific literature around to explain this behaviour, the general consensus seems to be that cats are monsters but we still love them. I reckon the ancient Egyptians knew this long before we did so I thought it to be a funny Idea to make a painted wall fragment displaying precisely that. At the same time I grabbed this opportunity to do an extensive SNOT study. I wasn’t able to include this in my Egyptian temple, it is too big and the yellow background doesn’t match the rest of the temple (some constructions required a specific part that is not available in tan). I did like working in this scale, it allowed me to put in some more details such as the golden anklet, the striped hair and belt on the female figure. Incase anyone would wonder, the hieroglyphs are printed tiles originating from the very first Star Wars Naboo Fighter. Building instructions available at Rebrickable!
  15. She's a beauty, that's for sure. There's really nothing to criticize, except maybe that little area where the galleries merge with the broadside, I hadn't noticed that earlier (so it's really nitpicking now), the pearl gold directly on the yellow is in great contrast to that over the black of the galleries. It kind of breaks the whole of the galleries I think.
  16. I'd think the main reason for technic panels looking how they look is to limit weight with a decent level of aesthetics. You'd be able to make a much more accurate vehicle using system parts but it'll be a lot heavier as well, making it less interesting for motorised creations.
  17. Thank you, I'll go through these web archives to see if I can find my archive page somewhere. I am looking into using my YouTube channel more often so a video of this ship might be a good Idea. Although I prefer to let the footage speak for itself.
  18. I haven't used glue so far but I can imagine this might the way to go for the shrouds to prevent deformation.
  19. I don't think I've kept many of the pictures from this ship during the build. But this tread has a lot of WIP pictures from one of my previous ships. It's not as refined as the Spectre but the principle on which the hull structure is based is basically the same. It doesn't have the 1/2 offset you can see in below picture though. I hope this helps.
  20. Nicely done, I don't think I've ever seen coral colour on a MOC ship before, you might be a pioneer here. It makes me want to experiment with red-dark red-coral colour schemes.
  21. I'd say it's a little bit of both, a hybrid! A System cab on a Technic chassis as it were.
  22. I have some WIP shots for the interested; I considered adding a windshield but that wasn't a succes, It looked more like shattered safety glass . Then it hit me, most Technic models don't even have windshields, what a waste of time. I was actually prepping the Spectre in the background, I've been working on way too many MOCs at the same time, it gets really chaotic at times... There are more WIP pictures in my Brickshelf gallery as well as some additional pics of the finished model.
  23. Thank you, I did not use any linear actuators on the bogie lift, the 2nd drive axle is lifted via a leverage (orange beams) connected to a rotating axle in the rear. That function is controlled by an M-motor which is located in the wheelbase of the vehicle (not in this picture) I'm having some trouble making the hooklift work in a consequent manner so I intend to redesign that part. Video link
  24. I finally did it, I've built a Volvo. It took me little more than a month to design, collect parts and build it, which is pretty short for my standards, I usually take (or loose) more time to fully complete a MOC of these proportions. The scale is, roughly, 1/20 and it has some functional features. Using LEGO power functions the vehicle can drive, steer, lift its 2nd drive axle, flash its beacon lights and operate the hooklift system. To be perfectly honest, not all of its features work the way I wanted them to work. The chassis was a bit small to incorporate all of these functions. I may design a new chassis at some point (more of that below) For me the highlight of this model is the cab really, getting the proportions of an FH right was a challenge, I had to make many compromises, choose the lesser of two evils. Of all truck brands, the Volvo just has the most complex design to replicate in the brick. But that is of course because a Volvo is the most pretty truck of them all after all. As I am employed at Volvo Trucks I simply had to build Volvo’s flagship. When Covid is over, I’ll drive it around the office landscape :). You may have noticed, the cab is not a square box, I spent a lot of time figuring out how to best approach the silhouette of the FH cab. It gets slightly more narrow higher up. The chassis is packed, I had to fit the battery box and two receivers in the cab, which is one of the reasons why there's no interior. Now, I'm sure some of you will most certainly have some suspicions about the feasibility of my hooklift system here... And they would be right! To be honest, the hooklift doesn't work all that well, lifting a container is a bit too much. It was only after I had completed the chassis that I learned about some sort of quality problem with those linear actuators I've used. But I think the fact that the very short leverage to rotate the hooklift may also have something to do with it. That of course was a consequence of the limited stroke of these actuators. This calls for the new longer actuators! ... However, that means I'll have to completely redesign the chassis... I have a couple of WIP pictures that I may share later. I hope you like it!
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