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brunojj1

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Everything posted by brunojj1

  1. brunojj1
    I completely agree with that! For me first of all LEGO is a toy! Then comes the realism which is also very important to me but secondary. In the studless era the realism is getting better with the time, although the studded Model Team trucks were very pretty and realistic looking - 5571 black cat is the best example. The playability of the 42009 crane is - let´s say limited and the handling a bit difficult even for adults. Á propos, on my opinion Han´s dump truck (which he had built almost a decade ago I guess) looks much more realistic compared to the Ginaf truck which it is based on than the Arocs is looking "realistic". Thank you Han for the instructions which I will buy soon!
  2. brunojj1
    I disagree with that. “The magnitude of torque depends on three quantities: the force applied, the length of the lever arm connecting the axis to the point of force application, and the angle between the force vector and the lever arm. In symbols: (symbol...) torque = r x F (symbol...)is the torque vector and the magnitude of the torque, r is the displacement vector (a vector from the point from which torque is measured (typically the axis of rotation) to the point where force is applied), F is the force vector” source: Wikipedia Conclusion: the reduction or increase of the gearing doesn´t affect the torque vector THEORETICALLY. Reducing the displacement vector means increasing the force vector and the other way around. Do I understand it right or did I miss something important in the discussion?
  3. brunojj1
    Yes, I meant the CV joints were worn after some time, precisely the dark grey part of it. In general I think gearing up and then down doesn´t make sense theoretically, of course they will reduce the total torque power simply because of more friction which also doesn´t make sense to me. Another unknown factor which makes a huge difference - the motor(s)! XL or even RC motors provide the highest torque and combining them to get more power output is dangerous for the plastic !... You don´t have to reveal your vehicle idea, but I am curious about it already
  4. brunojj1
    What kind of vehicle are you building or thinking of? Or is the question just theoretical? I remember the older universal joints breaking, but the new ones are much better and not so easy to break. I have destroyed or worn some cardan joints and now I use the u - joints instead with heavy torque at the wheels without breaking them (1/10 scale, 2 kg car). Primarily it depends on instant torque and weight of the vehicle, I think. The axles lenght are playing some role, too. The experiments will show how far we can go ;-)...
  5. brunojj1
    Thank you very much for your work and beautiful animations! It helps to understand more the mechanisms in the real machine and who could explain it better than a aerospace engineer ;-). Very well designed from Sheepo, big respect!
  6. brunojj1
    Very cool car and a big achievement at this scale! I guess AWD probably could prevent such override and make the sliding more like real on the track (even if the real drift cars have RWD)??...
  7. brunojj1
    Очень здорово, поздравляю! 3.000 оборотов - это почти вертолет взлететь может ;-)! Да, жалко что лето кончается... Translation: Very cool, congratulations! 3.000 revolutions p/m - almost a helicopter could lift with ;-)! Yeah, it´s a pitty that summer ends...
  8. brunojj1
    Thanks for sharing, you master of RC construction vehicles ! Does the single Linear Actuator really lift that weight at this leverage setup? Which are the functions of the servo & pole reverser at the rear cabin? I won´t ask for instructions, I guess it shouldn´t be too difficult to make something similar . Next to 8043 and Han´s dump truck (manual) it will be a nice toy for me and my sons and make a cool lineup on the shelf anyway.
  9. brunojj1
    Yeah, this is a nice experiment again! I like your fun and crazyness and the spirit of trying out unconventional solutions very much ! The torture of plastic can get an obsession to somebody...
  10. brunojj1
    Are you serious? "Too small, too high, should be"... I guess you have no clue about this one. I often wonder how the cynics get to this kind of critisism around here. The look is goreous! I bet the design of the inner mechanics and overall playability are fantastic as always. Recently I sold my 42009 on ebay because my son doesn´t like it, but now I regret having done it... Very well made and keep on building such top class models, Han!
  11. brunojj1
    Cool Ferrari and cool video! Doesn´t matter if this "crap" ends up at the Lego graveyard serving for something new, RIP . Having fun!
  12. brunojj1
    Maybe this one was ncubates inspiration:
  13. brunojj1
    I´m sorry guys, but I give up on the video. One problem occurs after the other, the lack of time, then my camera which is not good and so on - no fun anymore! Not severe, there are much more important things in this life than this! Sorry again!
  14. brunojj1
    Thank you very much, it means a lot to me! There is a misunderstanding: no such electric mode like in the real car, only the show effect for the fake engine and flashing lights which makes the car even slower. First I had the white 24 clutch between to simulate it kind of 1. and 2. gear by activating the L motors separately. It worked quite well, but too slow. I would call the performance good because I don´t hear any "click - click" when changing forward - backwards and that was a major achievement for me. The resulting speed is A BIT higher, not much. Good for my indoor races against my 5year old son´s 15€ RC cars which are faster . Ridiculous to call it "fast", (especially at this weight) compared to my Tamiya version of the car. To all: please don´t expect too much from the video! I´m not an expert at this and I have family with 2 kids , not much freetime to get into the "flow"... Nothing will change at the car and I will try to do it asap!
  15. brunojj1
    Finally somebody made it! Not somebody, but Sheepo himself ! Welcome back, I already wondered what happened to this genius!
  16. brunojj1
    Nice choice and interesting objectives! I remember the old thread and now it seems you are serious about it . I like the XL gearing. Does the differential scratch sometimes (if you have tested already some prototype)? Yeah, the exhaust looks unusual - it is the final version of the real one? I think 3D printed rims (covers) would be much better than the Ferrari rims - did you consider something like that maybe? Third party parts are getting more and more attractive nowadays. ANY new rims....
  17. brunojj1
    The front suspension looks compact and reliable. Chassis and rear seem to need more sturdiness. Sorry, it is not offensive but at some time I made the same mistakes to make some criss - cross to stabilize the chassis. You don´t need to, you could go straight on the chassis by stabilizing it vertically with some L shaped beams . I am surprised from time to time how sturdy those structures can be being only 3 studs thick. I had some thoughts about to build some kind of "lowrider" too, with a dead simple but reliable regulation with LA`s.
  18. brunojj1
    I like it very much! Maybe this idea sounds a bit crazy, but I thought if beeing controlled by a 8879 speed remote control - both sides separately like in a tank some kind of changing directions could be achieved??
  19. brunojj1
    Of couse it is possible to use only 1 XL + 1 L. If you use pretty the same gearing I guess it should work. If you are able to calculate the equivalent torque (I´m not a scientist or electric) - it is the one thing. The other thing is the practical unknown factors which can have an impact on a disbalance like bad gearing, loose mounting, lenght of the axles, friction and so on. Try out! I had played around with the 24 th white clutch gear allowing changing 2 "gears" (!) but wasn´t satisfied with the acceleration and top speed. If using difs - always a good decision to balance something, but it would require a completely different setup I guess. FXX is not my favourite. By the way - this one should be done by somebody using many flex axles including the grey ones for the silver edges!!!
  20. brunojj1
    The XL pair and the L pair are powered by a battery each and activated at the same time. If 1 IR receiver (V2) loses connection the car slows down a bit or stopps. The torque distribution between the both pairs is geared up or down to have a good balance to support each other. Please wait for the video which will take a few days. I would like to see such wallpaper, but won´t change the car. There are 52 Technic panels total which I don´t have in black at this quantity. Recently I made my Spider in black which I didn´t post anywhere, too dark - it didn´t satisfy me too much. Should I make it perfect? Honestly I´m tired of it and prefer to step to something new one. Some slight changes for the video and that´s it.
  21. brunojj1
    I´m happy you made this choice for your project! So after your Enzo there would be a nice alternative to the official set. I remembered by the way my F50 from my earlier days and the Lego V12 I had put in ther WITHOUT having it even connected, just as a real fake fake
  22. brunojj1
    Technic Supercars 8865 + 8880 were the ultimate flagship sets when I was a child, I first think of them. What did they have compared to the requirements we are talking now? Gearbox, steering, piston engine. But the definition what a supercar is or what it should be is not religious. I prefer a radical powered version of a Lego supercar because it was my dream as a child to get my Lego stuff remote controlled. The show effect on my opinion is bigger, more interesting to design and more fun to play with. Look for example at Madoca´s creations, same style. But I have to state clearly - this is my personal taste. So good we have so many different parts and options nowadays! I like all kind of supercars, especially if they show something new.
  23. brunojj1
    The steering axle itself used at this car is nothing special. I used the 57515 steering arms. The narrow version´s left tire collided with the steering wheel connection. Why I considered a narrower front axle in general- only to come closer to the look of the real things. By the way, I didn´t use any Ackermann, McPherson, Caster Angle, King Pin inclination or whatsoever. The car doesn´t have enough seats to take all of these Gentlemen with you . Joking, these are doubtlessly advanced and interesting features getting closer to real things, but I hadn´t considered them to deliver a significant advantage for performance for my MOC. I wouldn´t state general conclusions from this car for supercars in general.I recommend to try out your best solution for your specific MOC, always the best way! Take your time and be patient !
  24. brunojj1
    I just saw the new thread and will comment it later maybe. Will need some days for the video to make it more interesting and comprehensive. Yes, the axles have the same width. I made the front narrower first, but the steering was a problem then. I´m not sure what would look better, but thanks anyway. I knew the critics of the supercar experts to the bodywork would be hard and controversial .
  25. brunojj1
    Thanks, Leo. I don´t intend to get to HOF somewhere or challenge somebody for competition. That´s why I made it different. The additional panels don´t count as weight, the most weight is given by the PF equipment which wasn´t easy to put into. The drivetrain setup was designed to be simple and fool proof like in my previous car. Some experiments were needed and I´m very happy with the resulting speed. No gears grinding. The 20 teeth gear at the differential (XL pair side) is supported by a Ø11,2 mm rim from the underside and acts like a bearing preventing gear scratching when changing the moving forward / backwards abruptly. It makes some slight noise driving backwards which I take for granted. ) Being motorized as heavily you don´t care about 10 grams total weight more or less. And higher indoor speed increases fun automatically, even if it is not much.
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