z3_2drive

Awesome! I love the rear steering, succeeded in making the drifts look a lot more real rather than just fishtailing

Nice to see you making another beast of a vehicle I had an idea similar to your rear suspension, though I never built it because I thought 12t gears would never hold up, so I can't wait to find out how it turns out! Looks really robust, good luck!

Those driveshafts are perfect! I have a project in mind that could use those, I hope you manage to fix their problems. Quite the price tag though!

I have pretty much the same answer since Andy gave me those pictures a few weeks ago, and I ended up building my own vehicle with the same rear setup, here is a link: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=559001 I have done a lot of testing in the past few days, and the Ball gear holder handles really well, with full throttle direction changes and high load from 2 buggy motors (havent tested 4 though) not being a problem. They are much stronger than the small Lego CV joints but I wonder if they will stay like this over time, thanks for designing them, they work really well and helped us make two great vehicles! I only have the female adapters. Really wish Lego would bring back a similar idea to use the ball gears in cars again.

Really great MOC! I agree it would be nice to see you make a 4WD drift car next or at least a test chassis and see how it handles, maybe get some nice long powerslides

Ok, back on topic, have you tested the female ball gear adapters yourself, effe? So far they've handled pretty well but I've yet to really punish them out on the road, I will let you know soon. They already feel stronger than the Lego as well as the printed u joints.

So we know the 'rumored' set names and piece counts but the prices are not assigned? All I would want from a supercar is a nice gearbox which we've been missing for a long time, and hopefully some interesting new drive drivetrain/suspension parts. Without RC, it could be second in price with those number of pieces, but with RC, it could easily jump to first. And what's with knowing both 1h and 2h sets? Isn't the info usually split in time? Would this mean photos of both halves will be leaked similarly? I can only hope.

I would, but man it is expensive, and I have other hobbies I spend money on, so I work with what I have now It's fun seeing how far you can push Lego, and you can use the same parts to make completely different things. I am reaching the end with my last few projects, though, and my current project will be the first of mine to use a printed piece. I guess I might move on, but that'll be a few hundred dollar investment and I'm not selling my Lego! On one hand, I love seeing people push the limits, and on the other, I love seeing purist MOCs using very creative solutions and fine aesthetics , including yours.

The 3D printed parts are not really pretty (grainy or colors that never perfectly match lego) and I like them when they are used to explore an entirely new idea, not to make something easier. For example, I recently got a couple female ball gear CV joint counterparts (to fit the ball gears like in 8880 supercar) as a substitute to U-joints. Not because it's easier but because it simply won't work any other way, every single u-joint at the scale i'm building in WILL break with 2-4 buggy motors, either right away or after some time. So I get these to try and see if they will survive the strain. I will agree, simply making parts for easy solutions when lego solutions exist, takes the fun out of finding out purist solutions, but when there is none and the custom parts explore new levels of performance/function it's nice to see it. And of course MOCs using non lego parts are labelled as such, can't be used in contests etc, so it's just personal interest. I understand both opinions. Also makes me wonder if Lego will make new parts similar to the ones people design, such as bringing back CV joints using the old ball gears! It's so much stronger than a U-joint and works more smoothly!

The 1.55 Dirt grabbers are perfect for what I just finished building, but they are out of stock now :( Has anyone tested any tires in that scale that are also 75mm or less in size?

The picture with the body taken off almost made me tear up... This is an amazing MOC in all aspects, great job!

Why not pm the moderator, especially the one who last commented on that thread? Now you've made another thread which will have the same fate - closed because its creation was unecessary. It may be only one thread, but many of these kind of topics end up blocking out more important discussion, similar to bumping old topics to the front for no reason. EDIT: Jim's response from the topic in question. There's your answer to be specific.

Correct me if I'm wrong but are the gear ratios different on the rear due to lack of differential? Other than that, awesome MOC!

Looks really good! Can't wait to see the finished model, reminds me of the good ole days playing DiRT 2...

Anyone who's built the model already, do you have a set of 41999 wheels to put on this masterpiece? Curious if it would look good.

It looks beautiful, and the functions are so unique, I definitely want to build this one

No, almost 12. Custom 3s battery and RC system.

Probably, though some old generation muscle cars could fit the dimensions if flex axles are used. I've never done an official speed test, but this was the previous version of my high speed chassis to give you an idea:

I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy!

I think he means 'there's room for improvement' :D For example with more panels and flex axles you could replicate the rest of the current indycar's aerodynamics, especially the wide body. Right now it just looks like a huge air brake :P Save up for some more white and red panels and you could make it happen!

I have used them and...didn't work for me. I guess in a portal hub it will fare better and I remember effe himself used them (correct me if I am wrong). The way I used it was different-power of two/four buggy motors in an independent suspension setup caused them to pop and eventually broke the thin hinges holding the center piece. I think the only way for u-joints to be strong at this scale would be if they were made of metal.

Great MOC, especially as a first. When I first saw this it reminded me of the Dejong MXR buggy:

A must have set, lots of potential for modifying/improving bodywork and color! Haven't bought an official set in a long time, looks like this is the one :)

In RC cars it seems that caster angle is greater than you would find in real life on models that take hard hits from extreme heights and speeds. As for a road car, work with whatever feels best. Advice? Make it strong and make sure the car doesn't bottom out easy, and don't put too much strain on weak parts. If it's a small car tilting the frame will require longer suspension travel to protect the bottom of the car. Some great examples are clarkdef's MOCs: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=87118 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=97208 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88753&st=25 And mine: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88401 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=86913&st=250 (post 267)