z3_2drive

I used notched nail sections and hot glue to replace the center piece...this works good but eventually it comes apart if it's not perfect. for the outer parts heat shrink tape is good but the center piece is still vulnerable. The large u joint with pulley wheels is indeed the strongest but only good for huge models.

Well each wheel only takes the power of one XL motor geared 1:3. I never broke a u-joint this way even with 10 volts.

Haha thanks, I never really made a topic about it, I guess I should soon as I'm already starting my tank project

Exactly what I had in mind Although I may not need it for a while, I ordered some chrome wheels and may do one more video before I take it apart and start the Ripsaw project.

Yeah I wanted 4 but ordered 2 after I saw the price, and it turned out nicely since I only used two for the car and had two spares when one broke. Here's some quick pics of the beast: Here's the broken hub:

They're a great investment! I've collected 4 so far and together they make a monster of a vehicle: I think Lego would be wary of buying $90 hobby-grade motor controllers in bulk

You're making me drool!

Thanks, I don't need it now so I'll fix it on my own time soon. If I can't I'll let you know EDIT: You sent me 4 for the price of 2 anyway, so if anything I owe you

I wanted to add a little bit of info to my description of nicjasno's custom wheel hubs. When I got them I took my car through a lot of bashing, and after enduring the torque, jumps, and 10-12 mph speeds one hub came apart at the glue layer, and of course broke the dark bley hub piece. This will never happen to anyone's MOC because my vehicles are the most insane of any Lego RC MOCs, but I think using a specialized plastic-bonding glue would be stronger than multi purpose super glue. And regarding the Outdoor challenger-I really wish TLG would bring back the 11.5l Shock absorbers!

Can it handle buggy motors? I think one or two may work, but that's why I went with the beefier motor controller for my 4 buggy motors to run at once.

The buggy is absolutely perfect, something I'd definitely build

What a topic. And as for 8070 being boring-it was-for us. But for younger kids they see the bodywork and go "OH WOW! That looks like a really cool fast car, gimme gimme gimme!" BUT, they made a set like 8880 in the past, targeted towards the same age range...why can't they do it again? Very conflicting points here, but I guess budget is the highest priority. I would definitely buy the theoretical supercar nicjasno described, it's just that-would parents be willing to buy that for their kids? It would be quite expensive, unless it was modular and pf-ready. Full RC out of the box would be on a whole new level. There's no question the design team is able to give us a model that will blow our minds, but will the budget allow it?

Nice! compact, cheaper version of what I did earlier...really wish Lego would invest in a new RC system.

Yes I see a Harley is a Harley, yet a Harley frame can be modified as heavily as you want, possibly till it is unrecognizable, but if it retains something, even if it is only a name, it is still a beautiful design, you can't take that away from it. Not simply a 'wannabe' as you seem to believe.

Absolutely perfect! The detailing in the seats is excellent and the removable body is a nice function. The rear shock absorber seems to be bent a little though...but the mounting points appear to be adjustable. Great MOC!

If I make an excellent model but give it my own style rather than copying down to the tiniest detail, I can still say what it is based off of. You do realize that you can't re-create an exact replica of a Harley due to parts available, do you? There are no Technic drive belts with teeth, and the fact that it is custom literally means it's not supposed to look like everything else out there. And because his model does not include some features, his credibility flies out the window and his work is of no value? Sounds like jealousy or a bit of a hard-core enthusiast.

Well the third party controller I use couples well with the Lego servo. min-0-max speed is not as fast, but it's smooth, and more importantly responsive. You can steer as little as possible, but jerk the wheel if necessary. And of course there are dials to adjust the resting position I wish they would abandon IR and make an all-new compact radio system. The range and response time is pretty poor even in a moderately lit room.

I can only imagine The Defender would be excellent, but I'd rather see an all-new model. Since it's licensed I think I'll be happy no matter what it is

Sorry for double-post, but I was inspired to build this custom-RC tank after seeing this video: If that is what 7.4 Volt looks like, I wonder what my 11 Volts will do

Thanks, that's what I'm going to do, 4 buggy motors situated at the rear, 2 left, 2 right, and battery+electronics box near the front to balance weight.

For my next build I am planning to make a high-speed RC offroad tank with 4 buggy motors, similar in design to a Ripsaw. This will be my topic for any questions/discussion that may come up during the build. My recent BL orders have yet to come, so for now I only have one question. Are drive motors located at only one end of the vehicle? Or can they be placed at both 'axles'? It would seem simpler to have only the rear end driven, or would it be better to evenly distribute torque and avoid stress at one end?

When making High speed builds, such as my cars that get to about 10-12 mph, complex geometry helps a lot! Positive caster is an absolute must, and camber+toe-in/out also affect the handling greatly. But when building such high speed cars you need to sacrifice geometry for a robust setup, so I usually incorporate positive caster and sometimes negative camber.

I guess there is a chance that the flagship will be RC-one being the weight vs pieces and two being that flagships have been manual-RC-manual-RC-manual the past few years...

Amazing MOC, Doc! Surprised at the speed!

As someone said I have already done this, but I wasn't shooting for light weight, but just something I could use for high power and LONG range. My next video should demonstrate that. My goal was to use as many Lego parts as possible, so I stuck with Lego Servos because they work nice if you implement them properly and they add to the structure of the model itself. I've been busy so I haven't been able to make the topic about my Race Chassis but I'm going to have a two week break starting Saturday so you can expect it to be posted next week. I like your idea of small and lightweight - mine can only be used with large, extremely powerful models, like the off-road tank I'm planning to build next Here's my RC system: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88960&hl=