Lipko

3. You'll find that it's much more intuitive building with the odd system (as already mentioned, the holes where odd in the studded system too). Get a bigger set, and you'll see. Machines are pretty symmetrical things, and many axes go through the middle plane of them. 4. Well, that's something I seem to be the only one to like. Building an official set is not a challenge for me and either it wasn't a challenge when I was 7. The old style instructions with many parts to be accidentally left out was more tiring than the new one. 5. many axle pieces with joiners instead of a long axle. I love that. It's great for many reasons: *It's a ton easier for making MOCs (own creations) if you don't have to pull the whole axle out of the build just to change something. *You don't have to use bushes for preventing the axles from sliding: the joiners themselves are there for positioning *It's much easier to quickly make axles that doesn't jam. Long axles with many things on them require more tweaking, which can be harder since the axle is not modular. Plus it's naturally harder to make jammed *It's much-much easier to make modular models. 6. Okay, you can solve the same situation with some older pieces. But would that be as strong as a single piece? Many people seem to say that the evolution of Technic and parts make building easier. I don't think that's true. It only means that much complex and harder things can be made from Technic, things that couldn't be done in the old days. MOCers and TLG will find a way to use their creativity. Sorry for my night English

This is the best so far. And I also have a crab! It would eat your puny ship though

Thanks for the comments! I'll decided to raise the budget a bit more, after all, I spent almost twice the money for a Technic set. I will look at reviews, look at Lego MOC videos and ask what camera they used (to be honest I was expecting something like: "hey, I use XYZ cam, and here's the youtube video:" I should have made myself more clear). Dino: I agree, but you must have at least something minimal. My girlfriend's current camera has maybe a vertical resolution of 240 when shooting videos. Maybe I could illegally get it hacked somehow, but I think it's a better idea to buy a dedicated machine after all.The other thing that concerns me is image stability. Maybe it is only an issue with cheap, cellphone cams, but whatever. I have literally zero knowledge and experience with cameras. With photos, the only experience I have is that my lights suck mostly, but I can make okay photos (where you can at least see the details in somewhat convincing colors)

Try Theo Jansen or Klann mechanism.

Does it roll smoothly? I mean how evenly the tire is stretched on the miner wheel part?

Yeah, that's a bit of a problem. That's why I modelled even the prototype versions in LDD. I think you should be able to remove many parts, I'm actually surprised that the glider is well inside the part limit, though it seems more complex than the pickup truck.

Thanks for the reply. I forgot mention one thing, the scenes would be well lit.

Hi all! I started a new topic about camera choosing, but I believe there are many people here who only read the Technic subtopic and have experience with filming moving creations with small details. So here it goes: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88642 Thank you!

Hi all! I'm planning to buy a camera, but I don't want to spend too much on it yet. I want an entry level camera which is enough to make videos of Lego Technic creations. I think a 720p resolution would be enough to see the little details of a model, I'm more concerned about how well the camera handles movements. I've seen videos of MOCs, where moving the camera resulted in a rhomboid distortion of the image (I can't find an example at the moment). I don't want to attach the camera on the models, I would use a tripod or hold it in my hand. I'm thinking about the following camera: Polaroid XS7 Does anyone have experience with this camera? I watched several reviews but most of them were putting it to the extreme. What cameras are you using for shooting your videos? Thanks for any hints in advance!

Is that paper a paper body?

It's awesome. Actually I like the V1 version the best, the roof of the latest version looks a bit off. V1 looked more Mad Max-ish too.

It drives pretty well yet because the drive train and the transmission is very simple, but the body will be quite heavy I think, so we'll see. At the moment, it drives well with no gear reduction except for the differential. It is not too fast of course, but it's much faster than crawling and just enough for indoor driving. EDIT: as a reference, it's a bit faster than the recently posted Dodge Challenger.

Thanks for your comments! Yup, the little ACC car has the same option. The reason was that I wanted to take both models to the meeting, but I only have 2 L motors and 1 servo. Otherwise I would have just rebuilt the "Kisauto".

Some pictures about the remote controlled version and the modules:

One of them is for the HOG.

Thanks for the comments! The rear suspension works fine. There is a little play, but it's only noticeable if the model is lifted. The play in the hubs themselves are bigger. I showed it on a meeting, and an experienced builder (Mbmc) said that it is very precise, unlike many push-rod systems. It's much better than the suspension of 42000, where the pushrod touches a liftarm which causes a lot of friction. One of the main goal is to make a playable model, that's why I keep it simple. It's going fine, the functions work flawlessly, the model is sturdy, you can grab it pretty much anywhere, you don't have to be cautious when using it, etc. Simply put, it's fun to play with.

I have been working on this model in the last few months. It is the chassis of a German touring car (DTM series). Features: Steering with HOG and working steering wheel Full suspension using the new hubs. The first suspension is a modified version of Crowkillers' suspension. Rear wheel drive 3+R manual transmission (maybe it will be replaced with an 5+R later) V8 fake engine Functional rollcage Modular design Can be rebuild to a fully remote controlled car in a few minutes Due to the modular design, it can be rebuild to a remote controlled vehicle with a 2 speed transmission. Two L engines for propulsion, a servo for steering and M motor for switching gears. The body will be an Audi RS5. Or BMW. Or Mercedes, whatever can be modelled nicely. Will post some more pictures of the RC version tomorrow. Brickshelf gallery

After two weeks of struggling, I still couldn't make the walking insect work. The pullback motor is just not powerful enough to propel the insect by its legs, it immediately stalls if the model has to be lifted just a tiny bit. Since the most important aspect of the concept is the wind-up operation (all the versions I tried worked with a single M motor), I will try to use wheels for propelling the insect. Anyway, added a second pair of wings to the first model and a posable head.

I hope that you will be strict about the part limit and the timeline. Size seems to be a huge advantage in these contests, and concessions of more than a few parts would be unfair. It is some extra time, but it's not impossible to count the pieces of your own model. LDD with al its flaws is a very easy to grasp and use program, and it's free. So please contestants, take the time as many of us probably did, and count those parts and don't try to make us guess from a few photos. If you can't verify the part count by other means, take that few hours time and make the LDD models. My first model with 350 parts took 2 hours to model with all the colors, gears and funky angles perfectly modelled (obviously except for the things that LDD lacks).

Curse my English. My first read was "Parrot peelers "

Are these Lego LSD.s really working? I mean when a wheel is lifted, can the motor actually drive the whole car with only one wheel on the ground? Or does it only work (does something useful) with 4wd cars?

I wonder if the top 6 of the previous competition will compete. The theme is awesome and I thought it would generate more interest.

The new pull-back motor is surprisingly capable even with complex gear-trains, but only for a short "burst", so it sucks at weight lifting. The trick is that you have to use it as an accelerating device, and then let the model work from the inertia. I haven't tried it myself, but I would guess the best setup can be a pull-back motor spinning-up a flywheel (like your helicopter rotor) that moves the model along after the pull-back goes off. I'm struggling with this at the moment, since I'm building a walker and it's very hard to make the leg movement in a way that it doesn't lift the model at all (so a near perfect leg mechanism and 3-4 feet always on the ground). Maybe I'll try to add a flywheel. It would even make it look more steam-punkish.

Sad to hear

This is awesome, and executed very well. It's good that many people post their entries early, so we can all improve and optimize our models seeing the others.