Lipko

Another mistake is that the half-axles are longer than the wishbones, so the half-axles will be compressed when the suspension is not in the currently displayed straight position.

Still no vertical reinforcements and I hope I misunderstand the way you attach the shock absorbers on the rear suspension (two axle-pins?).

There are still a lot to build on that suspension, you really need to start to build with real bricks. I would widen the wishbones to give them some stiffness in the drive direction, you'll need to add some vertical reinforcement/connection between the wishbones and the pivots of the wishbones too. I wouldn't wait with real-brick building and prototyping until the whole model is done in LDD.

I was referring to this: I hope the drawing is clear. With rack and pinion steering, I can't imagine how you can keep the steering arms parallel when turning. I'll try to look into what you've said, but I still think that having the arms in an angle is not that of a crime by itself, if it's used for a good enough reason.

Make the same analysis on the parallel setup. Once the wheels start turning, the steering arms stop being parallel with the wishbones and you will soon have the same problem. The reason some of us use non-parallel arms is to at least mimic Ackermann steering a bit, but also to use the Lego hubs which are not made for Ackermann geometry. The problem is when people use it without thinking and trying it out (for example when the gear rack is in front of the front axle, so you have inverted Ackermann). Another reason some of us feel it is judged to use it, is the very poor steering ability of the hubs with drive, so the flapping thing won't be an issue anyway. So before you say things like "when people will learn", you should learn that it's not the perfect suspension that makes a good model, at least not for all builders.

Yes, it existed and I can't find it either. It was not refreshed since 1.5 years though...

Eagle eye.. Anyhoo, hopefully this thread won't turn into a lounge...

8052. There was a Lego point collection rebate (or whatever it's called in English) in 2011 at Match, and one of the few sets you could purchase cheaper was the 8052. I bought it immediately when I got the points for it. Then reassembled my old 8880 and took it to my then-current rent, then I started to build a Tatra suspension (what else...) Then two weeks later I bought 8265 and built my first MOC after 10-12 years of 'Dark age'.

Congrats people for getting that many of this limited set out of the life-circle.

Thanks for pointing out where to look!

I'm sorry if this has been covered already, but how can you re-import/refresh the parts list for a MOC of yours? A totally new CAD file with all the parts and (hopefully) without mistakes is available, but I can't refresh the parts list with the new file, and the non-complete version with mistakes is still there bugging people. Thanks in advance!

Hi all! How can you change/import new parts list on Rebrickable for your existing existing project? There's a completely new and full CAD model which I could use to update the recent parts list which has tons of missing parts and a some mistakes. Thanks in advance!

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, there are mistakes in the ldd file. By the way, may I update the Rebrickable project with Blackbird's CAD file or Therion's instructions (or both)? The biggest problem with LDD that there are lots of parts missing.

I agree with the problematic thing. I didn't feel that the forum was clustered with technical questions so I don't think a topic like this is necessary. Maybe a sub-forum under the Technic forum would be better than this solution.

Um, what? Am I the only one who cannot see freaking Brickshelf??? Anyhoo, He's a long time builder with an awesome portfolio already.

Bigger forces act on smaller wheels to transmit the same torque. According to action-reaction, this means that the forces acting on the axle of the gear are bigger too. Action-reaction: the forcer are bigger between the axles and the axle holes too. Bigger force between the axle and the axle hole means proportionally bigger friction.

I'd love to see the chassis with the roll-cage and without the body.

Haha, I was also in a metal band and was actually thinking about putting a song on a video of mine, but I decided not to. I love music, but I can't for the life think about a music to be put under my videos. I personally loved the soundtrack of this Sariel video, I wouldn't listen to it but for this video, everything just fell into place and I felt the harmony with the universe (I'm not being sarcastic but sleepy as shit)

I think it's not that simple. Another often forgotten feature of a shock is the pre-compression. And I think Lego shocks are more pre-compressed than real shocks, that means even if they are fully extended, significant amount of force is already acting on the spring. So even if you have the exact realistic ratio between the spring force and the weight on the spring, the shock may still be fully extended. Maybe the softer Lego springs are more realistic in that regard, but this all means that it can be pretty much impossible to make realistic suspension at particular model scales (either the soft springs are too weak, or the hard ones are fully extended). And I think that this theory works in practice too, any time I made a suspension that wasn't fully extended under the full weight, the model felt like a huge vintage limousine, while modern cars have quite stiff suspensions. The suspension felt right for Lego when the hard Lego shocks were very close to their full extension. At least that's my limited experience in the ~1:9 scale and my models were maybe too heavy.

To be honest, this is nothing new. You can see people doing this (cutting) for gearboxes, since the differential was designed to mesh with the clutch piece, I guess for differential locking. I can't remember any links though...

Reduction is okay, but aren't those 8-teeth gears too weak? The smaller the gear the bigger force it has to bear to transmit the same torque. You placed the smallest gear on the highest torque axle. On the front axle the gear isn't even supported properly, the axle with the gear will just bend out and won't transmit the torque.

How do you make the ball-joint ends? Especially if you are not building in huge scale? Most modern suspensions I saw use ball joints as the mechanisms are not flat in those suspensions.

if you type "studless 8880" in Google image search, you'll find some stuff there. Anyway, I don't think that would be interesting, the 8880's style is so studded. Building it studless, either you'll end up with a car that doesn't resemble the original 8880, or would look totally boring "so you made it studless..... okay" in my opinion.

Well, I think we would need pushrods is different sizes too, or a small ball-socket piece to build custom pushrods, also something that fans have been hoping for ages.

For the front wheel drive/transverse engine thing: That is something impossible with current parts if you want to make it authentic and not huge. The current gearboxes just too big to put next to the engine in transverse direction. Next to the gear clutches, a proper wheel hub is missing for me. It's annoying that you have to use non-authentic linkages to let the steering axle be inside the wheel. That's why I said that due to the limitations of Lego, realistic functionality often contradicts with realistic setup.