Jim

Nice work. Looking forward to the video

My bad, I didn't look at the source

Wow, that's a very nice compact D9. The looks are outstanding. I love the fact you used the panels with stickers from other models. I recommend getting a Flickr or Bricksafe account. Both are free and easy to use. You can embed a video by typing [nedia]urltoyoutu.be[/nedia] (with an M instead of N) Indeed be aware that you don't use the https address but the http. Your latest progress picture are too big for the forum. The max size is 800 or 1024, but 800 wide is commonly used as max.

Don't say Yep and then continue to discuss strings again.

Let's get back on topic!

I have seen your other videos, like the Volkswagen T1 and I can only say one thing....you are an artist! Truly magnificent. Keep 'em coming, please!

Same goes for me. Well done!

Nice! Looking forward to the outcome. About your pictures. Would it be possible to embed them in the post, using a max resolution of 800 pixels? You cal always use Bricksafe or Flickr. These services can resize images on the fly.

I will try a setup with 16T gears as well, thanks! There no such thing as too late. Thanks for the information. You've given me a great idea.....EV42039

That's is exactly what I had in mind It's definitely better, but the question is....is it good enough. I don't MOC a lot (you don't say), so this is very educational for me!

Af far as I can see the ones near the diff. The 12T can easily slip from the axle. I probably need to find a solution for that. I can simply power the axle with the 20T gear. I will try that first. Then I can better determine whether it's still slipping. Using two L motors would be the best option to fill the gaps within the chassis.

Indeed it isn't. Please post these kind of things in another forum section, like General Discussion. Or in the Embassy: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showforum=108

Not too bad at all. I like 'em The rear ones are bending a bit strange though.

I just tested the setup with two L-motors. In all cases the drive shaft ends with a 12T bevel gear driving the 20T bevel gear, which drives the Diff. As you can see in the picture below. The pictures shows a WIP for setup 5 by the way. Another important detail; this setup is tested with the minimal chassis. The weight will have increased drastically when the car's finished. 1. Using two 20T bevel gear on the motors and one 12T bevel in the middle This worked pretty well, except when you start driving the gears grind. Obviously due to the force which need to be applied to get the car moving. Once it's moving it works fine. Driving backwards doesn't grind the gears and works fine. 2. Using two 12T bevel gear on the motors and one 20T bevel in the middle This prevents the gears from grinding. However, the cars drives a bit wobbly....slow....fast....slow....fast. It seems when the car is in the "slow" mode it is building up force to push the car forward. I reckon this is putting a lot of strain on the axles? When there's enough force, the energy is released and the car goes to "fast" mode. This motion repeats over time. Does this make sense? 3. Using two 16T gears on the motors and one 16T gear in the middle. I actually forgot to test this. 4. Using a single XL motor directly connected to the drive shaft A bit of teeth grinding and wobbly (slow, fast, slow, fast) driving in both directions. Taking a closer look; the gear grinding was caused because the gear slipped from his axle a bit. Not sure whether this was the case with the L motors as well. 5. Using two XL motors with 36T bevel gears and 12T bevel gears (Bruno's Ferrari setup) Not tested yet. I guess most of you Pro's will recognize my problems and think "been there, tried that" Any thougts or insights are more than welcome. For example; Are bevel gears more "grind prone" than normal gears?

For all you StarBrick Wars fan

I did understand you Indeed I will do some testing, with different setups. The rechargeable battery boxes can be fitted nicely on each side. Probably a bit easier than the normal battery boxes, but that's something I need to try as well. Maybe the regular battery boxes will fit nicely between the beams.

True, indoor use only! I will do some testing with different setups. I haven't got much experience with these kind of PF setups, so it's good to learn a thing or two.

This sounds promising! I will start testing with this setup. Thanks

That makes sense. Since it's a pretty heavy car, I reckon there will be quite some load. So using V2 receivers would be better in this case? Just like Bruno's Ferrari. What's the best setup for two battery boxes? Driving motors on a single battery and all the other functions on the second battery?

True, only driving and steering at the same time...and the occasional gear shift. The functions gearbox has become obsolete. I am using an M-motor for each function. So it's the "gears gearbox".

I had the exact same feeling!

Sorry to be so blunt, but please read the rules. Most of the rules are in there.

Thanks.....but no thanks hehe. This actually is the chassis of the 42039 24 Hours Race Car. I must admit the chassis is pretty solid, like the rest of the build. I am rebuilding it in LDD and modding it to be RC. Cool! Well, that's actually something I need to study. I am not very familiar with how many motors per battery box, per receiver, per SBrick, etc. Guess I need to take some time to find out. Is that kind of information on Philo's page as well? Maybe there's a rule of thumb...feel free to enlighten me. The easiest way would be to put the two motors on the same output of the IR Receiver/Sbrick and connect it to a single battery box. Using a single battery box means I have extra space for the motor switching the gear box. 2x L Motor (or XL) for driving 1x Servo for steering 1x M Motor for hood/bonnet 1x M Motor for the doors 1x M Motor for the gearbox (optional) 2x LED You don't use most of the motors while driving, but I guess this is a pretty heavy setup for a single battery box? Or isn't this going to be a problem. 2 LED and 2x L (or XL) are running constantly. Servo and Gearbox occasionally Doors and Hood only when not driving

Do you know the abbreviation RTFM? I would like to introduce another...RTFR

That's something to consider. Thanks for the tip. I have been thinking about two XL's as well, like Bruno's Ferrari. However, two L's fit nicely in the inner area of the chassis. Eventually I want to use two SBricks. So it's probably best to connect the motors to the same receiver, to minimalize the chance of backdrive? On the other hand; I am probably going to use two rechargeable battery boxes, one for each drive motor. Check! I might try that as well.