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Aurorasaurus

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Aurorasaurus

  1. Aurorasaurus
    Somehow I doubt TLG would care. But I do agree, zetros tires are off the table for sure.
  2. Aurorasaurus
    No worries ;) TPU from my experience with it, admittedly only 95a, is far too rigid for tires. I've used esun brand filament because it's cheap where I am.
  3. Aurorasaurus
    I just assumed that when you said "3d-printed tyres" you meant, well, tyres... not rims. But I understand now :)
  4. Aurorasaurus
    What material are you using? I'm pretty sure you'll encounter traction issues if you're using high hardness tpu, and printing issues with low hardness... but I'd love to see a solution, good luck!
  5. Aurorasaurus
    I dont mind cars. But I havent bought any of the new lego cars. The only reason to buy them is new parts, they're not as interesting as the old unlicensed models. Big, expensive, *empty* shells that don't even look good. I bought the peugeot 9x8 because it had unique suspension, but no other car set recently really took my fancy enough to take my money. Im happy to just wait for the parts to be on B&P and save myself a whole lot of money. But lego isnt really for serious afols anymore, it feels.
  6. Aurorasaurus
    This one isn't available- believe me I've tried pushing for it :) You can reverse engineer a chunk of the important mechanical parts from still parts in the videos. The front can be improved using audi hubs and cv joints. I made a model "borrowing" the rear axle concept/design, you can take a look at that on my rebrickable for free, maybe it can help you.
  7. Aurorasaurus
    It's a little hard to tell from the photo, are those LBG or white? Buwizz motors from the past are LBG... those ones look white. Very odd.
  8. Aurorasaurus
    This is the best option by far. More force than the other options, more precision, IMO better form factor, and cheaper. The only downside is wrapping your head around rc electronics is a little daunting at first.
  9. Aurorasaurus
    The original lego one is proportional when given a correct input, none of the other ones are. (unless a new one came out recently that does- but I doubt it)
  10. Aurorasaurus
    I use 95A TPU because it prints well and is common. Depending on what rim style you're hoping to use, you can probably get a decent amount of damping right down to no damping at all. If you designed the spokes of the rim in an arc maybe it would allow the outer circle of the rim to move around during landings... But really, I think softer tires will be a better solution. If you're using rc tires, I'd suggest just gluing them to the rim and forgetting about it. I'm curious to see what you come up with, keep me posted if you will.
  11. Aurorasaurus
    Yes, thats almost certainly the reason.
  12. Aurorasaurus
    I have an in-between solution which you may prefer: the tape trick. Place a small square of tape over the 3 pinholes on the wheel you will use, then just push the wheel on like normal. It will take more force but will stay on very well, I used this on rc models jumping and drifting and it never failed me. Cheap semi transparent whiteish tape commonly used for paper and stuff is a little bit stretchy, so I find it works best to use this kind. Plain old clear stuff works okay but not so good.
  13. Aurorasaurus
    I have taken it apart now, but yes, I'm pretty sure it will work.
  14. Aurorasaurus
    I built a recreation of this model using friction pins and it worked very poorly. The frictionless ones are important to keep everything running smoothly.
  15. Aurorasaurus
    Great! I'm always happy to help :)
  16. Aurorasaurus
    @Samolot Your first image is gigantic and loads very very slowly. It's way above the allowed size. The truck looks great, I'm looking forward to your video to see how it runs.
  17. Aurorasaurus
    If you think about the typical direction of force on that part, it will be holding it together. A pin would be fine. But also, you could just use an axle with stop and a few bushes and it would definitely not come off.
  18. Aurorasaurus
    This isn't the clean solution I'm assuming you're looking for- but you can add a real photo with arrows at the appropriate building stage to show where the cables go.
  19. Aurorasaurus
    Pin with towball would be my suggestion.
  20. Aurorasaurus
    Actually I found mine could go further than 90 degrees. If you can't get it I can make a video, perhaps mine are an older mould variant or something.
  21. Aurorasaurus
    I just tried on one of mine and found that rotating the two halves all the way to the end while trying to pull them apart gently worked and they came apart easily.
  22. Aurorasaurus
    Off topic, sorry, it was too perfect.
  23. Aurorasaurus
    Actually- that is the real thing. I thought it was a render at first too but it isn't.
  24. Aurorasaurus
    I believe you can use partdesigner and import stl's into that, then generate a studio part from partdesigner. You can add connection points in partdesigner too.
  25. Aurorasaurus
    Ones from set 42160 with the larger cv design that was introduced in 42099.
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