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SD100

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Everything posted by SD100

  1. SD100
    I have everything wired exactly as listed in the topic I posted, I am using all Lego PF wires, except when I use the 9v wires to run a RC motor, and the only change there is the 9v wire running from the 9v motor to the RC motor. So the problem does seem to be my IR reciever if I look at all the available information. I would like to find a Lego solution but perhaps zephyr's suggestion is best currently
  2. SD100
    For my LUG layouts, I've been trying to integrate the Power Functions IR Receiver so that we can stop the train from wherever instead of having someone constantly manning the 9v controller... I'm trying to follow the setup listed in: But I'm running into some problems. Using a Power Functions train motor wired to a 9v train motor, only the PF motor works... And if I wire an earlier RC motor (8866) instead to the 9v motor, they both function, but only at half speed. I can't figure out what I'm missing here... I suspect maybe the IR receiver? It does not say V2 on it so it may be V1 but they were all ordered around the time PF was discontinued, and the same IR Receivers have been running 2 PF train motors fine. I'd appreciate any insight, thanks. SD
  3. SD100
    If you search Renfe and Talgo in this forum you should be able to see the ways other people have made those kind of bodies work, I've seen a few different solutions. But when you start actually building it you'll have to refine it to your structure. That's half the fun... lol SD
  4. SD100
    That looks great, real smooth model. SD
  5. SD100
    That's an amazing looking engine right there.
  6. SD100
    Either a more rigid rod might help, or you may want to allow some more slippage. On my 3 axle locomotives I only have the center axle solid. The wheels are on 1/2 pin/1/2 axles and held in by the rods and that has alleviated a lot of friction. It also allows slightly more side to side movement in curves and switches. SD
  7. SD100
    That second picture looks awesome. I love how everything is smoothed out like that. SD
  8. SD100
    I paired the hubs and just turned the rear motor around. The cord just comes out the rear door of the loco and around the coupler. SD
  9. SD100
    While I was skeptical in the beginning of michealgale's claims, I am beyond impressed with the amount of products he is now bringing to sale. I appreciate that this is a massive undertaking to produce all of these different components for what is really a niche market. At this point, anything directly compatible to L gauge track is much better than a half baked aftermarket solution, I don't want kids messing with soldered/shrink wrapped wire connections on a layout that's not permanently attached to anything all the time. And if his motors eventually are taking more power, then I want a controller that will also power them at that level, without bastardizing multiple interfaces. Today I just made my first investment in the FX Bricks system, but I'm looking forward to making many more. I'm invested now. SD
  10. SD100
    I have a son and daughter. My son loves playing with the Friends houses... For detail and the tens of tiny accessories they come with, they blow away CITY sets in playability. I've got a whole Friends neighborhood in one corner now and both of them can play there for hours. My daughter, on the other hand, wants to know why there aren't minidoll firetrucks (I'm working on it). She likes the ambulance and the last hospital, but really wants more action/service related sets. Issues we are finding in our "Integrated" Lego town are that things like restaurants, or trains, need to have minidoll seating available, so they get converted as long as there are parts to do so. Just listening to my kids shows that there are huge areas of overlap that Lego really doesn't seem to cover. In City, you can *zoom* any number of vehicles, but you can rarely cook breakfast, in Friends, you can cook breakfast, but the vehicle to *zoom* might be 12 studs wide and not really fit in anywhere else... I feel play wise that's a little bit of a problem. I would say the reason things like CITY are popular for boys is that it is things they see every day, but the same applies to a lot of the Friends concepts, and the fact is all genders of children see the same things every day, and in splitting THAT up into gendered subjects is where Lego is missing out. SD
  11. SD100
    Unfortunately this is a problem that seems to be increasing in frequency. My Bad Batch shuttle was missing 7 parts, making it impossible to finish. this being my third set with missing piece problems I now make notes on the part list during the build process if I find anything missing. It helps to also note the 4 character factory number on the tape on the box before you discard the box, so when you call them for the new parts they can know which factory is creating the errors. After a quick phone call they've usually expedited the missing parts to me. SD
  12. SD100
    How's that video coming? I've got a bunch of the switches and that rubber band is a pain. Even a thicker one like the Lego one might help a bit, or making that pin larger so it can't slip through. I love that trains can fly through these switches, but I have to inspect and fix them all the time. SD100
  13. SD100
    You can also pry the bottom off and fix it, it's not glued or anything. SD
  14. SD100
    That's a beautiful ship there. Were your historical aims primarily the sailplan, or was the rest of the ship based on a particular design? I really like the look of the rear covered cabin and roof but I haven't seen any historical designs like that. Also, how does the tensioning system work? The rigging looks great. SD
  15. SD100
    Trying to add the latest parts pack results in half the parts group icons becoming question marks. It's a fresh install of LDD 4.3. Am I screwing something up here or is there a way to fix this? SD
  16. SD100
    That would be a cool train to see in real brick. The Obs. car has definitely given me some inspiration. SD
  17. SD100
    That GT3 running looks pretty impressive, is that running the 1:3? And are you using any type of lubricant? So far my two attempts at just running power through gears have made me simplify everything down to as few gears as possible to prevent friction or stripping, so this just looks crazy to me, but I am working on a 2 motor 4-6-4 so it's also intriguing. Now I gotta hit bricklink and see if I have anything with that differential piece in it, lol. SD
  18. SD100
    That shark bike is awesome! Great shaping on it. SD
  19. SD100
    Well if the hull is that screwed up, would it now be feasible to try and detach the hull pieces to see if there is a way to do that? SD
  20. SD100
    Those are some cool updates, love that boat! SD
  21. SD100
    R104 switches is really not a limit, it's almost a minimum to run trains without derailment. Every Lego train I have goes on the ground if you hit a Lego switch a little too fast. Bricktracks R104 switches have made my layout so pleasant I'd never consider anything else. At a prototypical level I don't know how common double slip switches are in the UK but they're really limited in actual use outside of the major metro areas in the US, and from actual experience, encountering a hand operated double slip switch has cost me enough real life hours with dumb conductors I don't ever want one on my layout, lol. SD
  22. SD100
    2 motors total, in the head power car. Rear power car has unpowered bogies. Originally I had one motor in each with a power wire running the full length of the train but that caused a lot of derailments so I put both of them on the lead car. SD
  23. SD100
    My double HE with two motors in only the lead power car can ascend a 2 plate per track section grade no problem. I don't think I'd be able to stop and get going on it again but it's fine in motion. SD
  24. SD100
    It's generally discouraged on these forums but as he said on the "Train Tech" forum specifically they are more lenient at least as it applies to non-lego parts. SD
  25. SD100
    If you're using a M, L, or XL, figure on a lot of experimentation, trial and error. Ideally you want to have as few gears as possible as they create a lot of friction, and the whole assembly needs to be tight enough to stop them from slipping. The right angle half gears are nice but sometimes you might have to shove a full bionicle gear in instead to take up slack. SD
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