Permo

Yes, very nice, I prefer the look wihout the spare tire, though it fits nicely.

Love the pinguins ~!

Pretty amazing build, chapeau !

Ohw yeah ! That's funky ! I think it's looking really good

Really cool build !

These models are not Lego ? What's in the box ?

I'm typicaly not a "car guy" unless it's Lego, but that Toyota Cruiser, yup, that's my favorite also, if I ever get filthy rich I'm going to buy one just like that, in orange with the white roof... Do free lance engineers get filthy rich at some point ?

Love how it looks from the front, it has that "move over, comming trough !" kinda look. Not shure about the white roof, I guess I'm not a fan of white pieces in general. The lightbar on top is cool ! (I just got me a set of those tires.... whoaaa, huge!)

That's amazing !

Oh my...

How about this ? https://www.banggood.com/nl/DIY-12V-8-x-AA-Battery-Holder-Case-Box-With-Leads-Switch-p-998860.html?gmcCountry=NL&currency=EUR&createTmp=1&cur_warehouse=CN&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_elc&utm_content=zouzou&utm_campaign=pla-nl-elc2-pc-nl&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9t2HtNPn2QIVx53tCh3omQqIEAQYAyABEgJQd_D_BwE

For those interested using an onboard cam in their models. Today I picked up this from the post office; It's called a SQ12 and is sold from China wholesaler Alieexpress for 15,- euros It is offered as a HD cam but the CCD chip is only 720p it will record in 1080p but the only result is the files will be bigger, no extra detail. It can house a micro SD card with a max of 32GB, has internal battery and charges over USB. Cool thing is, it has perfect Lego 3L x 3L fit, it really sits nice and snug with the rubbery exterior, no mods needed. Just a cool gimmick I wanted to share with you ! (weight is only 18 grams)

Yes adding extra batteries should work... give you higher RPM.

I don't think that would work as you would need to connect them in series, and Lego connectors are all paralel connections. If cheap speed / mega torque is what you are looking for, a Lipo cell is the way to go. I use this one; https://www.graupner.com/Power-Pack-LiPo-3S-/-2000-mAh-11-1-V-70-C-XT-60/78120.3/ With this charger / balancer; https://www.graupner.com/LiPo-Balancer-Charger-2-3S-for-10-18-V-DC-or-100-240-V-AC-for-XH-balancer-plugs/6454.XH/ And this cable; https://www.graupner.com/Charger-Cable-XT-60-D3-5/S8386/ Be cautious though, this stuff can be dangerous, 140 Amps is a lot of current !, you definitely don't want to short it ! ... I bet I can start my car on this battery fully charged !

Hahahaha.... that's crazy !!! Too much modding for me... I figured the powersource is never Lego as it is either Duracell or Varta or Panasonic or BuWizz or whatever and I don't want to spend lots of money on batteries so I went for my LiPo solution wich only involves cutting some extension cables and some soldering. I used the other ends of the cut in half extensioncable on a laser unit (ripped from a laserpointerpen) and a DIY LED string.

3 Fluke's and a scope,... that guy is a pro I only have one Fluke and a scope. I can't read spanish but here's the source I used to get some insights in Lego electronics; http://www.philohome.com/pfrec/pfrec.htm

I just boldly did it.... feeding it with a fully charged 12.6 Volts. And it works fine... when I hook up 4 L motors to one IR receiver the current limiter kicks in, but splitting the load into two V2 receivers each feeding two L motors and one has the steering servo on the 2nd channel, no problems there. Performance is stunning, oh my... I'll race any BuWizz and all you're going to see is my big bright taillights lol Nothing runs hot or craps out. Here's a video to see it in action; https://bricksafe.com/files/Permo/de-driftkikker/Video.mp4 I did not use a V1 receiver, it has a different make chip (850mW only) and will shurely crap out, but on the V2's .... awesome !

Probably something fast The advantage of a LiPo battery is current, it will never go "meh" under load. The advantage of 11.1V (nominal) is higher RPM at the motors. But DIY solutions are not for the fainth harted, you really need to KNOW what you are doing, as with LiPo cells things can get very dangerous when mishandling them. Here's how I did mine; I connected the Lego connectors to the XC60 LiPo connector using the outer wires only !... for safety ! Connecting the outer wires only means that no Lego motors and lights will run directly from the battery, there always needs to be an IR receiver in between, now the IR receiver has a current limiter inside (V2 has a limit of 3.5A with the Texas Instruments PWM chip) wich will protect your motorwindings from burning under severe load. Using two V2 receivers >> 2 x 3.5A x 11.1V = 77.7 Watts (nomimal)... that's a lot of power. I'll purchase a 7.4V LiPo cell soon wich will result in a more 'normal' situation with the advantage of lot's of current. I also ordered a little Voltmeter from China wich will be soldered to this contraption for the reason that you don't want to decharge your LiPo cells too much as they won't be able to charge anymore, so you always need to check your voltage and when the pack hits below 10V (3S 11.1V pack) means it's time to charge the battery. Also never store fully charged LiPo cells, always store them at nominal level or slightly above that, I'd say 11.5V max so they won't catch fire on a hot summersday, as this is a chemical fire you won't be able to stop it once it goes haywire ! So if you don't KNOW this stuff allready stick with the BuWizz as it has electronics inside that protect the battery from over / under charge. In general; DON'T BE STUPID !

I hooked up a Graupner 11.1V 2000mAh Lipo battery to two Lego V2 IR receivers. This setup gives a whopping 70 Watts ready to push those motors.

Yup.... Like it !

I like the engine, and with all the power onboard I feel it will not compromise performance. Not having it coupled mechanically to drive funtion it can run stationary wich is kinda cool, and if you have lights I would put some working lights on it also for cool factor.

Yes I see and I agree... I like the hood with the black stripes, and I suggest to continue the black stripes over the rooftop and back of the car. Still very impressed by the framework, don't hide all of it.

Awesome ride ! Very cool, especially love how you did the front grill and the rear lights. It looks the best in 'low rider' position.

Ok, I'll try using fingers only.... I'll keep my valves as they are, I have 'modified' one without opening it up simply by using a mini handdrill for circuitboards and 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm drillbits, put the switch in one position and carefully drill out the opposite hole, connected a bit of pneumatic hose to my spraycan nozzle (perfect fit) and blast them with silliconespray. Now instead of 'pfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffft' it goes 'Puff!' ... a 12L barrel is now sufficient to shoot axle rockets. (the light tan 4L ones with the round bit make perfect rockets)

Ah, thanks for the tip.... I'll be doing this next weekend. I've got some cottonpicks, sillicone spray and sillicone grease in a tube, I guess the thicker grease is most suitable for pneumatics. I saw some video's on youtube on how to open them up.