Mechbuilds

Biggest problem i have with mocs is using illegal building techniques and bending of parts. TLG's sets always are built in a way that the parts don't get stressed over time. Like a front axle that's too thin to support the weight of the moc and starting to bend and possibly breaking parts very soon.

I think i need to redo the front axle completely.. There is just no way how to connect the suspension

Now it's about the same as in real life.. Gotta figure out how to attach the front springs and rear springs properly.

Here is my crawler WIP.. It's starting to shape up to something.. I'm thinking about making it a pickup truck.

It's awesome. Looks like it's RC too. Could you make a video on youtube?

If i was an audi fan, i'd definitely love some instructions. But i'd mostly be interested in the chassis. But it's up to you. I'm sure many people would appreciate it! It's amazing to watch the bodywork come alive.. I personally think that the most difficult part is body work on mocs.

Love it how you used the gear racks as linear actuators. Brilliant stuff!

Have you tried using an VPN and going for an european server? I think the problem is chinese internet not being compatible..

I could fit 2 XL motors. It wouldn't even be hard. There is heaps of space for a second one. The issue is the gearbox... By the way. What ever happened to your axle.. Nice.

That's true! I just can't seem to figure out a way to join these axles together.. It's that middle point with the yellow axle.. If i use the same kind of system that @filsawgood's suzuki jimny has, then the axles will start to slide forward and backward when going up and down. The pivot point needs to be the same as the U-joint. That's where the issues are coming from.. I don't want to abandon this project because of this issue with the middle part. I'm having problems on where to connect the linkages and how to connect the XL motor because it's one stud too wide so i need to make a 4 stud long gearbox so i can mount the XL engine between the center and the servo so i can have enough room for the battery box. If i go with an L motor instead, the crawler will have less torque and more speed which is bad for rock climbing. EDIT: L motor would fit easily.. But it would be fast and not torquey..

I know i'm WAAAYYY too late to the party but..

I don't think i can utilize @Madoca 1977's Fj40's setup on this.. Thanks for the link though. Now when i have the wheels attached, i think, should it be one stud longer? I might change the wheels due to a little bit of rubbing on the front axle due to the L shaped beam piece when turning.

The front axle is the one with longer linkage. (the front axle is already done but not shown in picture) The rear axle is the one with shorter linkage. I need a gearbox that'll gear it up a bit so it can rock crawl. The XL motor can be mounted either back on top of the rear axle which will cause problems on battery box fitment. OR the xl motor can be flipped to the front as long as it's not longer than the first black 2 long axle bushing after the U-joint on the front axle. (preferred so i can mount the battery box on top of the rear axle.) Problem i have is figuring out what kind of gearbox to make that can fit in the middle and how to connect the linkages to the bottom of it. EDIT; Front axle added:

Awesome! Have you thought about gearing the fake engine up so it spins faster? Makes great noise when it's moving.

My point is: If there is a road of some kind, use independent suspension. It works better on roads. Be that tarmac or just gravel roads. If there is no road, just rocks and terrain and bumps. Then use a live axle. If you market a vehicle to be an off-road vehicle, then give it an live axle. If it's a rough roads vehicle then you can get away with independent suspension. Rally cars use mc pherson suspension with great effect.. But they drive on country or gravel roads. Not off-road.

You've got a point there.. The thing i don't like about the lego model is basically just the defender itself.. I don't like new vehicles because they're too round and futuristic looking.. I like oldschool boxy vehicles. Lego would make billions with simple small-mid scale RC trial trucks. What kid wouldn't want an RC car that they can modify easily made out of lego. Lego could also sell "modification kits" that can change the vehicles. (wheels and springs ect..)

That's why in my country, (Finland) we have things called wagons and sedans. And if you're not familiar with the mixed road conditions in finland then yeah we don't have it as bad as russia but still.. There are many back roads that they don't fix ever.. And we got all the weather conditions. What annoys me the most is a single woman who only uses their massive landwhale of an SUV for a short trip to work and shopping. When a small more economic car like a toyota corolla or something would do the same job easier.. If you ask me, those city "offroaders" are crap at all terrains.. They suck at offroad, they suck at city driving.. Pointless vehicles. But i guess nobody cares about efficiency and economics. It's only a status symbol like a watch or an apple i phone.

This is the main problem i have with the concept of making these city "offroaders" Live axles just are heaps better.

Honestly, it looks like one of those city SUV's instead of actual offroad vehicle.

Loving the chassis! Great work!

Can't wait for updates! This will be one awesome winnebago!

I feel the same way.. But it needs to be very durable. I need an axle which has the servo and XL motor attached, it needs to be as compact as possible (13 studs wide if tyres are flipped and 11 studs if tyres are going outward) It needs to fit under the mercedes arocs cab. I'd love to use those hubs because they have a very solid connection for the tires and they don't bend under weight unlike just hanging on axles does. I love the tight turning radius that i can get.. But it's beginning to be very difficult if i want front wheel drive. This would be so much easier if i just went rear wheel drive.. My battery box and receiver are mounted behind the arocs cabin. I wonder if i'd have enough wire length to put the XL motor trough the large turn table and mount it immediately after it. But then i wouldn't have the possibility to just have a moving front end that attaches to different types of rear modules.

So i probably shouldn't try 45 degs on that part. That means i get to redesign the steering system again..

The problem is that i have a honor phone currently (gonna replace it soon) and windows refuses to co-operate with it so i can't get any pictures out of my phone to my PC. I'm not that tech savvy so i've given up trying to make it work. But i can try to make a LDD copy of the thing and post that. The issue is having this part: connected to this part: And when the servo turns the hub to it's maximum steer lock, the hub and cv joint starts to jump and vibrate when i turn the wheels. But it's normal and works if i put no steering input and the moc is going forwards.

post results!