Mechbuilds

I'm going to stop you right there.. The suspension.. The springs are mounted wrongly because when you compress the suspension from the side, the spring will twist in a breaking way.. You should add these parts so you can mount the springs sideways so they can turn while compressing.

Yeah grease does have a shelf life. It will kind of dry off over time.. Lego should have made it openable so you can change the grease..

Like this?

Are you using a wormgear on the mechanism?

The guy has 226 posts and zero topics made about hes own mocs.. Troll?

Oh noes.

Using a lego offroad vehicle in offroad.. zero brains indeed.

Great to see you pushing out a new moc! Like all of your mocs, amazing work! Love the front bumper. I remember having those parts when i was younger.. Can't remember which set they were from..

It's so frustrating to design a working suspension.. Here are some of the mockups i've done.. Not sure if that would work.. That definitely didn't work. Otherwise great but too high for the truck.. The suspension would be mounted trough the truck flat bed.. The axle itself: It's very robust and durable.. It can handle the buwizz power easily without breaking any parts.. However, it's a complete nightmare to hang on the chassi for the truck.. Main issues are: 13 studs wide from tire to tire <-- Very compact means either it's too brittle and it breaks and twists or it's very hard to implement to the chassi with a suspension. Low mounting points. The chassis itself is very low.. Only 10 studs until it hits the truck flatbed. Independent but non driven front axle with great steering. <-- The rear axle needs to be preferably locked diff for offroading or drifting. (if possilbe with tape over the tires to reduce grip.) This is a rally truck.. It's designed to be silly. I couldn't make it 4wd without either having the steering lock very low due to cv joint limited travel.. Or not durable enough, using U joints you can get more cowbell but to build it with these tyres i have, you can't get the axle durable enough without parts bending or loosening on use.. After i'm done with this moc, i might order bigger tires and a pair of portal hubs cause making mocs on this small scale is difficult as hell.

Oh well.. Wont be investing in getting these hubs.. I always hoped there was a way to open it without breaking it and having a mod of some sort to make them water proof..

Looks like the new hubs need some sort of grease or something inside..

Here is a heavy duty axle i designed for my truck project. It can handle the massive torque of the XL motor paired with buwizz ludicrous mode. And you have the option to not only move from Slow-Normal-Fast-Ludicrous modes but also gearing options from 1:1, 1,6:1 and 3:1 after the 1,6:1 reduction after the XL motor offcourse. But i need a little help with it. Where and how should i mount the springs for it so i get a suspension. Also how do i mount the ball cup socket beams so it doesn't wobble and flex. I have the LFX if anybody has any ideas?

I just can't get over the coffin on top of the model.. Wish lego would remove it.

That's a cool looking shuttle!

Sooo you want them to put hybrid turbo v6's on the lego models?

I've heard that buwizz has some speed control thing that works like a differential. So when a servo turns, it reduces power to the other motor. But in the same time, if it's programmed backwards, you get a mean drifter.

Insane work! Amazing how perfect models you can make with just lego.

That's genius!

The only way i could make an independent rear axle design is with a floating differential. But i'd need to order this part: But even then, i couldn't make it a lockable differential in that scale since the axle can be at maximum 13 studs wide between the tires. I think i'll have to go with a live axle instead. This moc is beginning to get pretty heavy. The cab is 0.6 kg's already.

I studied the axle and it only has up and down movement.. It cannot twist side to side.

Soo the 42081 costs 150 euros and weighs 2,35 Kg's. When we divide 150 by 2350 we get 0.06€ per gram? The new 42099 weighs 2.304 kg and costs 200€ So that's 0.08 per gram. So the project volvo is a better bang for the buck?

I'm really struggling with the rear axle for this one.. I tried using the rear axle of Paave's truck.. But the axle mount point is too high so the truck bed would look weird.. What i need is an lower profile axle that's sturdy. The motor can be a part of the axle like the axle itself is an T shape with the XL motor in the middle.. But how to mount it onto a frame that's 2 studs lower profile.. I've been tinkering with many different axles myself and i've also tried copying some axles of mocs.. There is always issues though.. Either the axle is just 2-4 studs too wide and can't be used. Or the axle isn't sturdy enough and it curves and bends and eventually breaks parts. And if i manage to get a perfect axle that's both sturdy and not too wide. Then it's mounting points are too high.. Grr... And as far as i know, it's impossible to make an indenpendent rear axle for this because the axle needs to be 13 studs wide from tire to tire.

You gotta give @efferman some credit on that suspension setup. I just modified it a little to add lots of preload. I don't know.. I might make a modular chassis design so i could have a dakar truck, a pickup bed truck.. But yeah the intention is that it's offroad and RWD. I still haven't decided on a proper rear axle for this thing. I might go two L motors, one for each wheel and use the motor as a part of a suspension arm.. Or maybe i'll go with a live axle and power it with an XL motor.. If you have a rear axle design that's very durable for a moc of this size, then please share! It will be run with buwizz. Oh also, it's not too late to have a large turntable in the middle so i can have even more cowbell.