Mechbuilds

The compressor needs a 3d printed body around it that's easily attached to technic mocs.

I hope you can make an RC version off of this.

Interesting.. What modification i'd do to the snow cargo vehicle would be a snow plow on the front. Main points are as high as ground clearance i can get and electronics as far top as i can make it while still being heavyish so it can move easily on snow. The snow plow needs to be easily removed so i can crawl with it on snow tracks i can make. I don't want snow touching my motors or electronics. Probably the best way to work it out is placing the motors upside down and having those 4 spoke gears to turn the torque 90 degrees for both axles. That way the motors could be even higher and safe from water. I'm already working on a front axle with portal axles. Just need to make it sturdier.

Modified to work with buwizz. However anything over normal mode will destroy the U joint instantly which is near the rear axle. I think the rear axle should be mounted with a turntable and only have sideways swing and no up and down movement. That would increase playability. I will probably start modifying this beast into the "little truck that could".. Perhaps removing the bucket and adding a snow plow and make it the biggest snow plow ever? So many possibilities..

What a monster of a moc!

Because i have zero pneumatic cylinders. And buying a massive kit to have them is not that cheap. Also i'm still waiting for dumper parts to arrive that i ordered 14.11 and it's 9.12.. Where are all my parts?! I think the only way to have both mechanisms on the blade is to have the tilt mechanism fixed inside the raise/lower mechanism and have U joints to power the tilt mechanism. I was also toying around with the idea to have the blade mounted on springs so the blade is pushed down with force. This project would be a success if i can manage to fit everything to a nice attachable box that i can just plop on any moc with ease. So probably two M motors mounted inside a box.

Worm gear and linkage is easier to go with. My issue currently is getting the tilt to be equal both sides.. Having no information and no experience with snowplows, this is a learning curve for me how this works mechanically. I might invent something new if i don't look too deep into snow plows.. But i do want to go with a long bar that's tilted instead of anything else.. I want to push the snow to the side as the moc moves forward.. And i do want to implement soft springs to dampen the plow when it's lowered to the ground. But first i need to start cracking on the tilt mechanism.

Blade like that wouldn't work when trying to plow snow in real life. The snow would pile up and create so much friction that the moc would stop moving or go over the snow. I need a blade that pushes the snow to the side.

Yes. But the issue is how to make it work with small linear actuators instead of pneumatics. It's proving to be very difficult.. Easiest way is to just copy somebody who's done it without RC parts but i want it to be adjustable with a controller. EDIT: Just saw RM8's brilliant mechanism for the snowplow without using any linear actuators.. I wonder if he's willing to share the design.. The wormgear linkage version works so much better and is less of a headache to make. I might need to still work on the blade.

Update: This mechanism works.. But i worry that the blade will fall off or loosen due to the connection point mounted to the top instead of between something.

This is my current progress: I wonder if i can make it a little bit more sturdier than the unimog B model blade. Perhaps just a notch wider? My plan is to plow actual snow with this so it needs to be robust but still RC so i can just sit, have a beer and plow my walkway.

I need help designing a snow plow mechanism.. I've seen some snow plow mocs with pneumatics for the snow plow or hand cranked mechanisms.. What i want to do is use small linear actuators and M motors. Features: -Up and down -Tilt side to side -2 M motors to operate. (OR A COMPACT GEARBOX WITH SELECTOR) The blade itself will be made mostly off from 5x11 panels (3 panels wide) (Inspired by unimog B model) The whole mechanism should be somewhat easy to remove from the moc.

I changed the suspension arms to the beam version instead. Now the hard part is figuring out how to make it steer.

You could swap one of the 3 long beams into a 5 long beam and attach it to the chassis.

@sirslayer's parts sure look like they've been used hard. Rock n roll!

My progress with the @efferman's dump truck: Still desperately waiting for parts..

Has anybody made heavy duty axles with lots of ground clearance for CLAAS tyres? I'm looking for 5-6 studs of ground clearance with claas tyres. Probably independent suspension can handle this ground clearance and still be reliable for a heavier moc. Here is what i've been working on: The width is correct. 15 studs between pivot points. The ground clearance is also over 5 studs. And with the help of U joints, you can get proper amount of steering while still keeping the 4x4 drive. But how about the middle part? The diff (lockable if it could fit) in the middle.. Also XL motor drive.. Where and how to connect the links that are connected to the 5x7 frame.. Can somebody help me out with this axle?

According to my experience using both sites, brickowl is easier to use than bricklink. Bricklink seems to be all over the place while brickowl is easy to use. Parts can be cheaper in brickowl if you know how to compare stores. I have once got an order cheaper by ordering from two stores and splitting the parts.. Same order from bricklink would have cost 10€ more. It was a 90€ order technic parts including a motor.

This guy will just make a 4th thread about it and ignore all the help we gave him.

Like people have said in all 3 of your threads about this same issue.. The design is flawed and needs to be completely redone. Take those 12t gears and throw them in the trash so you'll never put them on this same moc again You have room to expand the gearbox by one stud to make a different build. People also gave you 3d models on alternate gearboxes that fit.

As a person who did the choice of getting buwizz.. I say go for it. I'll never go anything else. It's just so convenient and very powerful.

That thing is amazing! Good luck with the project!

Always remember that brickowl is there for you if you need that one specific part to finish your moc.

I'm thinking about making a snow cargo vehicle using CLAAS tyres. While i'm waiting forever to receive parts for the @efferman's dump truck moc. I got inspired to make something after it's done. What i want to make is a snow expedition cargo vehicle that's futuristic. Features: -4x4. -Cargo space -High ground clearance. (portal axles on all 4 perhaps.) -BuWizz It will be roughly the same size as the dump truck. But a little bit higher. It will be driven on snow so my goal is to get the electronics higher so they don't get wet. Should i go for independent suspension or live axles? Two XL motors spinning all tires or one XL motor for front axle and one XL motor for rear axle? I'm kind of leaning toward independent axles and one XL for each axle simply because it will provide high torque and a more simple drivetrain for an 4x4. Since i'm going on snow on Claas tyres that are flipped backwards for grip, do i really need to have diffs? If anybody can help me with the axles, i'd appreciate it. -Axles need to be 21 studs wide. (between tyres) -If it has a diff, it needs to be lockable. (Manual or electronic. Both works. Buwizz has 4 places for motors. One is occupied for steering.) -Portal axles using legos portal hubs? -Small springs only. (I don't have long springs) The moc will be around 45 studs long.

Use the shifter extender piece and put it one stud more behind. Then you will have room.