Mechbuilds

It's a very underrated set. I like it. It accomplishes good detail with minimal parts.

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Toying around with a modified idea..

That actually looks pretty solid! Do you have an LXF? I think i could use something similar like that and perhaps modify it.

The issue on the old axle was this: The ball socket stud keeps being pushed out from it due to weight on top of the axle. I need an axle that's very sturdy. A motor mounted on axle pendular build works better. It can handle infinite weight and you can use springs to center the body/chassis on top. If the build was smaller, the axle would have been handy with a medium motor and different gearing. If anybody wants to tinker around with the old axle, here's the .LXF

The axle had so many problems under heavier weight that i had to scrap it. I made a post on the axle collection thread asking for advice on the stiff axle.

Help guys. I need a tough live axle for a moc. I can't figure out a solid axle that wouldn't bend or have parts crack due to weight. At this point of time, the axle can be shortened by 2 studs if necessary. Currently it has 6 long axles coming from the diff. But i can make it work with 5 long axles. It will be XL driven and servo steered. It will steer both rear and front axles. Also if possible. A gear reduction can be added between the diff and joint. 12t to 20t. This will achieve a total 5:1 gear reduction which will increase torque. If not possible, then i can try to make the gearbox between the diff and XL motor. But what i'm looking for is a very sturdy live axle that doesn't bend or break axle mount parts. The motor will be mounted to the axle so i haven't decided between live axle or a swing axle.

It doesn't work. The suspension is too frail from the ball joint mounts and also the suspension is a nightmare to attach properly.. I think i'll have to scrap this and go for a stiff axle instead.

Surprising how many people forget brickowl. Try going on brickowl.com You can get parts much cheaper there and easier. Their category system works better than bricklink.

This is a very simple machinegun i saw somebody put on a plane here. I'd use axle to axle 90 degrees connectors for handles on the back instead of those axle beam connectors.

An LDD would do for instructions. Damn this thing is a BEAST! Can't wait to see how the crane will turn out! So many possibilities.. Are you going to put weapons on it? The cab could use a mounted machine gun.

Oh man that cab looks cool.. Kinda wanna copy that for my crawler.

So much win on this thread. Definitely gonna watch this project.

RC lego outdoors because you can build what ever you want it to be and you can modify it. But on RC, you get the one set you buy and it's pretty much done. Customizing it requires you to fabricate custom parts for each function which costs money and it's a lot harder than just pushing lego bricks together. Sure you can't make lego stuff incredibly fast and all that.. But lego will be what you want it to be. If you wanted a firetruck crawler, you can make it out of lego. If you want a normal regular RC car to do the same, you'll have to buy custom firetruck shells and modify them to fit a crawler body and make custom wheel hubs and parts to widen the wheels so they fit the firetruck body and it's a massive massive ordeal. And when you are bored with it, you're stuck with it forever.. But for lego, you can just disassemble it and make something else.

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try the front bracing idea. It seems to be solid. EDIT:

Would have liked to have a video of it on water.

It's a rough guesstimate where the springs should be mounted.. I'm going to lose half stud of clearance but in exchange i will gain full range of suspension travel from the front axle arms. Also for the servo, if i mount it upwards and use gears to turn it 90 degrees, it will have some slack which i don't want. Also it can't be mounted on top of the H beam because it will interfere with the springs. Springs can't be mounted on the ball cup arm because it will pop it off from it's socket.

Axles front and back. Should make it all wheel steering like in the picture or have the rear axle as a normal axle without steering? One solution would also be to just add a second servo if somebody would sell me one for less than 50€.. I'm thinking about if i should keep it this way or add a turntable in the middle? It's starting to be more of a crawler now haha.

I guess this could solve the gearing problem. But mounting the motor and gearbox so it's durable is another thing.

Could anybody help me out with a gearbox to allow the XL motor to be mounted like in the picture?

Update: Here we have the front axle assembly coming along.. I added a gearbox inside the H frames to turn the engine 90 degrees toward the diff by using knob gears. Not sure if it was the best call to have it built this way. But the XL motor should be 6 studs long so it should be at the H frames height. If anybody can figure out a better or more compact way to do it then i'm all ears. (And i mean height. It's already very very tall.) My original thought was to mount the XL motor on top of the differential as it would make the structure one stud lower. But i can't figure out how.. Would be great if there was more gearing reduction. Currently it's 3:1 If somebody has a way to mount the XL motor on top of the diff and build a small gearbox that reduces it even further then i'd rather build that. EDIT: This is one way i thought about it.. But it won't reduce any gearing.. Ideas?

Will it be modifiable to accept buwizz?

That's SOOOOO compact..

My current progress on the front axle for my next moc: Very big thank you to @Madoca 1977 for helping me out on this axle.

That was oddly satisfying. More threads like this please! I'd love to see many sets with different wheels like this!