Timewhatistime

These news make me a little bit sad. I really liked the solution with the double linkage instead of the usual arrangement with an idle gear. What is the consequence in terms of slack - does the gering increase with the gears? (Which should be no problem, as the steering wheel isn't turned by a big angle anyway.)

This is great! Compact scale, many functions, nice aesthetics. I really like it! If I see it correctly, the trailer's three axles are all steered with the same angle (?)

I like the combination of pull-back and tracks, too. However, usually the acceleration of pull-backs is very high when being started. Did you test if the tracks can transfer this force to the ground, @msk6003?

I really like the fact that you not only use the weird 12T gears with the even weirder axle sticking out of it, but additionally use its weird pinhole to brace the black 12T gear which controls just another funtion. I never managed to find a good usage for this weird part.

Up to now, there isn't a single model picture... just some high-aimed plans which will have to be proved and accomplished within the restrictions of [TC30]...

In former times, LEGO was known for wide-range compatibilty which allowed to combine nearly every part with any other, especially across different themes. But since this is long gone past, I don't see any real use for these new gadget bricks within the TECHNIC realm.

Wow, I'm deeply impressed by all the functions and the time needed to develop them all. I'm sure, this beast will be frontpaged immediately. There is one thing I don't get: the automatic diff lock (very useful and ingenious feature!). I see how it is released when the steering wheel (or HOG) is turned in one direction: the differential is realesed from being locked to the left side of the rear axis. But what happens when the steering wheel is turned in the other direction? I don't see how the diff would be released from the rear axis in this case, as the wave selector will move the driving ring in a way which does not fit.... Could you please explain how it works? Edit: Now I see... simple and effective! Very nice solution!

"Bewegliche Zylinder" shows the authors' technical competence. It's not the cylinders moving, it's the pistons...! And like every real "Super Sports Car", it has two cylinders. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trabant_601

It was not exactly this purpose, but you are right, it was similar to the Artemis' mechanism. Be it in a rocket or in a helicopter, nobody would have mentioned the unavoidable clicking as a "function" or somehow "realistic".

We are all happy that this is not just another car with "real-life" functions (like steering without turning steering wheel, or one-wheel-driven fake engine). However, I am poorly convinced that the clicking-function was intentionally designed. To me, it rather seems to be an unavoidable side-effect which is necessary to prevent the rocket from going down when the crank is unhanded during the rocket's take-off (due to the steep worm gears). I confess, the mechanism is quite clever in its sensitivity to the sense of rotation. Surely, it is better than a ratchet mechanisms which would have to be operated manually. So the designer implemented a friction loaded idle wheel as a brake which is active only while rotating in the "take-off direction". It clicks... yes. But this clicking isn't a function for its own.

Funny enough, the new 6L A-pillar isn't used as a hypotenuse in a Pythagorean triangle. Yes, I know, there is one at last... but it is done in a far from trivial way. My point is: This A-pillar is adjacent to the slightly tilted roof (at the top) and to a 2L beam (at the bottom which does some adjustment. All in all, the "triangle" has non-integer side lengths. So the A-pillar's "Pythagorean potential" (3 - 4 - 5 side lengths formed by 4 - 5 - 6 L beams) is not used in this set; however, of course it is still there and surely will be used in MOCs and future official sets.

Oh yes, even some good old-fashioned clicking gears are way better than a sound brick.

Apart from some decades of experience in building with Lego Technic, this video makes me think that it will make a simple click sound. Moreover, this video just doesn't make me think that it will make a simple click sound - it shows that the rocket really does a simple click sound! https://m.youtube.com/shorts/AQ-GxBQ0d5o

Thank you very much. This is an answer I never had thought of. I'm not sure if the sound of a rocket is click-click-click. I have to admit that I've never heard a starting rocket, but I doubt that this sound will add any "realistic" experience. However, at least it is a somewhat "new" function, and a rocket is not just another display car.

Does anyone have a clue why there is a relatively complex gear box in the base? Especially the double row of grey 16 t gears and red 16 t idle seems odd to me. There could be a ratchet mechanism that prevents the rocket from "falling down" - but I don't believe it is so heavy to turn back the worm gear. Another purpose of the gear box could be to provide only one single rotating direction - but I'm pretty sure that backward rotation is needed to land the rocket.

Your solution with the bar connector ist very nice. I'm sure I hadn't found it. There were several times when I was near to use an idle gear like this, but things always turned out otherwise. Thank you very much for these insights!

Thank you very much for this image. That's the kind we like here! If you got some more for us, many of us would appreciate it. Nice usage of the double bevel gears for controlling/pushing out the outriggers in different directions at the same time. Oh yes, same for me!

It is pure speculation, but maybe two of these pins https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=61184#T=C (combined with two black 2 L pins) are used instead of the two blue 3 L pins at the rear... two brake light could be attached to them. This would increase the number of parts used.

Apart from all the well-deserved praise...: Is this considered a legal connection/meshing?

I see a lot of possibilities to strengthen the fake engine... Dashboard end: Maybe a connection on each side to the grey connectors attached to the blue biscuit part... Axle end: Maybe some more connection to the yellow No. 6 connectors or to the black 13L beams... Depends on the available space which is restricted in the next building steps... The official way the engine is mounted is truly not the way I'd prefer personally. However, maybe the wobbly mounting is kind of intended for the Nissan. One could speak of realistic motion of the engine when it unfolds its high performance in this sports car... just a thought... I don't like it, too. (And we all know, the real reason is half-baked engineering and saving costs...) Thank you very much for the praise. You're welcome. I like this kind of tasks.

Yes, the differential will interfere with the second flip-flop beam, so the setup shown in the image will be the right one as soon as the differentials are put back into the car. The space needed for the differential is the initial reason for the weird construction with the quarter-ellipses mounted to the steering rack.

@thekoRngear Yes, that was exactly what I meant. I'm sorry that my advice with the half-pins doesn't work... I overlooked the axle holes. One final idea for ultimate rigidity: Use the flip-flop beam with two 3x3 T-shaped liftarms (connected by two black 2L pins each) - not in the manner you used the Ts in the image! You have rotate the Ts by 90 degrees. So the outmost pinhole of the T will sit where once the ellipse's pinhole was - and so you may use the original 4L ball joint steering links. (I imagined a similar solution before, but didn't think of the mighty flip-flop beams. Once again, they are a gamechanger!) Sorry, my fault: By "control the length" I meant "check the length" (not: "adjust the length"). As you already might have concluded, I am not a native speaker of the English language.

This is a normal and unavoidable effect and no reason to worry. If necessary, the stability in this example is achieved by additional parts which hold the blue liftarm in place.

I propose to turn the red perpendicular connectors. Fix them to the steering rack by a red 2L axle each and by a black 2L pin to the quarter-ellipses each. Moreover, a grey/blue half-pin in the quarter-ellipse's pinhole on each side beneath the steering rack should fit into the steering rack and provide additional stability. This little mod should minimize the slack in comparison to the "official" setup. And another idea: Control the lengths of the new black 4L balljoint-links by just mounting them directly onto a liftarm. Maybe they are a little bit too long... Regarding their quality control, we should't rule out any flaw in 2025's LEGO...

In my 42082 set there weren't any Pneumatics, so I will have to write a complaint to Billund and ask them for the missing parts.