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SNIPE

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by SNIPE

  1. I'm all for this idea, Also we didn't get RCX/NXT/EV3 in official sets but now we get Powered up/Control+ in official sets, including in Technic sets, so there is a lot more overlap now. The "robotics sets" of today is just recolored and rebranded existing parts (including electronic parts).
  2. Loving the work done here with the buggy motors and the new 12 and 20 T spur gears
  3. So, are the changes only in the decals? I have an original version I think.
  4. well, its acting as a grippy axle hole.
  5. You could do what the 41999 does for the doors, it puts an axle inbetween two rubber 2L liftarms. I don't know if thats too much friction or not. Rubber bands are a good alternative.
  6. I don't suppose any one can look into making a very small paddle shifter mechanism using the two new 1x2 curved panels as pawls, maybe in a way where they work both as the stepper mechanism and the pusher that moves the knob wheel? I'm working on it but I get impatient/bored very easily. I just borrowed the two new 1x2 panels from the spoiler of the 42141 and put a white rubber band on them which was tentioned by two pegs that were 4L away from the panels. but they just kept getting pulled in because the knob wheel had too much clearence as to not keep the panels at a certain angle in which they always keep the rubber bands in tention. (yes the panels are on frictionless pins so they can pivot)
  7. Finished my build, now working on adding the gearbox.
  8. The solution is to put some 3L pins in the disc brake but where the stopper rings are at the wheel end, this gives 1L gap between the wheel and disc brake but at least the pins are not too far in or out of the wheels pin holes. So in other words, the pin stoppers go to the wheel end, not the disc brake end. The orientation of 3L pins matters sometimes. You can use blue / black 3L friction pins or tan / light gray frictionless pins. I reccomend 3L friction pins in black.
  9. Very clever using those ball parts with pinhole, I have a few of them and never found a use for them until now!.
  10. Maybe the gearbox could be shrunk a tiny bit because I recently figured out a use for the new 12 and 20 tooth spur gears, they can mesh with the 16 tooth side of the 4L centre differential much like this old part and the 16 tooth gear. On the other hand maybe it does not make much difference.
  11. I could but i hate studio and wanna test out my gearbox in real life anyhow, with it in the model.
  12. I have noticed that the instructions are STILL not available on legos website, yet the Vespa instructions are available. Could this mean anything?. Perhaps a parts mold change or even single part change (kinda like how the the 6x6 tile was replaced with three 2x6 tiles in the UCS batmobile). Really want to build this then add a gearbox but its out of stock all over the place :( I also want my lego promotional set!
  13. A mechanical solution might be possible, some sort of gravity/weight actuated gear direction switching mechanism. I dont have this model but ill try to built it out of existing parts I own though i will probably replace the new gears with 8±24 or 16+16 tooth gear pairs. What happnes if it flips over , but side-on? (if that makes sense)
  14. The back of that car looks like a vaccum cleaner.
  15. I've never broke any gears except for 1 old 8 tooth and 1 old 16 tooth, they were yellowed pretty bad so..
  16. TBH, I thought this part would be cool but it comes out too easily. Maybe if LEGO could make one with friction then that will help. It is useful for prototyping because you can easily take it out since there's no centre stop.
  17. Just noticed that we have exactually the same post count :D R.E the above quote: yes.
  18. you might not always have room to move them out by 1L but yes.
  19. it means you can have two motors in parralel but spaced using odd numbers where as if you put two power functions motors in parralel they are spaced using hard to work with, even numbers.
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