SNIPE

Usually because linkages are more reliable, as opposed to something just resting on top of a cam which can flap around. Take the air race jet for example, that is linkage galore!. here are some solutioms. they may not be ideal however:

I can't belive they did not add a worm gear and knob for the turntable and maybe include the DBG colored one from the UCS AT-AT not the typical black turntable :|. like 3 extra pieces, but nope!

I was actually watching Unbrickme's 'top 10 technic helicopters' video and since the control centre II was on there, I also had the idea of making a test rig for it, so that it "appears" to fly on its own. So I may do just that however a piece of transparent fishing line tied to a ceiling would look more realistic, Also, speaking of turntables, I figured out how the blades axle moves (it is a liftarm being used as an axle). it is still attached to a mini turntable as I predicted however the turntable is not attached to the floor, because they needed to leave cargo space behind the sliding doors, so instead, they put the mini turntable on a second platform that is above the cargo bay. This locks the beam into the platform unlike say putting 4 connectors on a normal 28/36 tooth and attaching the beam that way. The beam can still pivot left and right when attached to a turntable but they seem to have fixed that externally as well.

wait, I meant 42129 tires

Are those 8462 wheels? and claas claas xerion/42099/etc tires?

Oh actually, yeah, luckily there's many port outputs left over As much as I am tempted to add a buwizz motor for the propellor, it will take up soo much space and will mean sacrificing my other ideas such as the RC cyclic and RC collective pitch control The 4th function might be an opening rear bay door like on the 42113 bell osprey helicopter.

Hi all, Here is a sneak peak of my 42145 MOD/replica. Mods that I would like to include are: 2 buwizz 3.0 instead of dumb battery box. Small spike prime angular motor for collective pitch and a simple mechanism for the rear blades to also have (MAYBE independant?) collective pitch. Small spike prime motor for cyclic pitch. C+ L motor for blade rotation/landing gear/winch/a 4th auxillary function PU LEDS. Suspention (just springs placed over axles). Pivoting front wheel for basic steering. Easily removable, or foldable blades. For now everything is done in black as It is the only color I have the majority of the needed parts in. Leave a reply wiith your thoughts, mods and anything else down below. Update:06/07/2022: I am now working on my own internals, because I realized that building the shell and then trying to put the internals in would be tricky and then I would also have to mod them. So, the first thing I wanted to get working was the blade rotating, cyclic, and collective pitch. I sort of got it working but the turntable turned out to be un-nessecary and so the part that slides in the 3x3 round elbow pices prevented the cyclic pitch from working as it was too big. The collective pitch still worked as intended and I also made the blades easily removable for storage/display. The long 15l axle that the original set has is gone because strongly mounting such a part and still getting it to rotate using gears is a nightmare and a waste of space. So instead, this assembly will sit as high up as possible. So, Ill remove the turntable or the bit under the turntable so that does not obstruct the cyclic blade rotation. Regards, Snipe

Never mind, I wasn't thinking clearly, I see why it is how it is now.

Yes, you could still have that, or you could make it a drive/reverse selector instead, but I am removing the stopper so that the battery box can be put into forward/off/reverse anyhow. In my previous reply I meant "add an extra function that uses a 4th clutch ring and gears" The 42113 set has 4 drive rings, 4 fully independant motorized functions, but one of the drive rings has no reverse as its blocked off. What I don't understand though is why the lego designer(s) did not just make the 5 sided star beam move up and donw for the collective pitch and have the other lower hub pivot in 2 axis, but not move up and down for the cyclic pitch adjustment. heck if the new hub had more connection points then that in itself could hold the blades, do cyclic, and do collective pitch. (with some connectors to pivot the blades)

No, because lego made this part which would replace the 3L axle which is the culprit, I have tested the gearbox I built above and it does not have the problem.

WOW!. The spinny thing (that uses part 3708) for the winch is actually a friction clutch using two 3L beams, and a 2L friction pin with bush. The bubble under the blades slides open in two halves and it has a locking mechanism (the thin 2L gray liftarms). The rear levers move in one axis and are also connected to a lever that is outside of the cabin. The front levers do not, but this is because they move in two axes. The part that connects the ball-pins and 6L links has a bottom part too, it is a new piece in black and it holds ball-pins that are connected to some steering arms. No fake engine but thats ok . The only thing, and this is a little picky, is, I wish there was a 4th lever for the function gearbox, the fairly new 2L axle with 1L frictionless pin fixes the problem that the 42113 gearbox has and it would allow 4 independant functions all with independant forward, off, and reverse modes: Anyhow this is just wishful thinking, there's always the possibility of modding it but that's for another topic. The front wheels do not have a simple pivot for steering unfortunatley. Overall however I am very impressed at this set!. Any new facts you see that I have missed, leave a reply!.

Do we know any more information about the supposed 'fake engine' that is inside of it? I also read (from one source) that the front and rear hoods open to reveal the rotors steering mechanism which to me sounds and looks, like the front and rear of the "bubble" under the blades can open and close. source: https://www.2ttoys.nl/products/lego-42145-airbus-h175-reddingshelicopter Be sure to click the english flag on the site to translate it into english.

Correct indeed, the duplo 2x2 tiles are 4x4 but they are 1 brick high. -and back on topic I go-

white pin with stud in roller coaster set:

Ooops, my mistake, yes it is just medium azure. What about these 4 parts, they look like 1x1 beams in dark blue, or is it some plate with a technic pinhole on top?

I think we get a 5x7 frame in what looks like teal (can someone verify?) Not a huge deal but maybe we will get more stuff related to technic in this set. source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-5U-mEgzwM

yeah and even the chiron

A few months back, I realized that we don't even need the yellow rubber band, #2 connectors, liftarms and axle with ball joints. We can use the knob wheel as part of the stepper itself - I did this by putting the new comma panels under the L and R knob wheels, the comma panels act like pawls and have a pin behind them as a range of motion limiter. The pawls can either by normally taught or normally loose depending on which side you place the white rubber band and ball joint. It worked very well, saved a bunch of space and, because it had a lot of "snap", it might even be possible to lose the paddle shifters stepper now. I can build a proper mockup with an actual chassis soon!.

Genius!

Ok, I fully charged the hub, now it is better, so I'll test it out properly soon and report back if there still is not enough torque. Regards, Snipe edit: I just realized that I will actually be using a control+ hub per unit, not a robot inventor hub but I need to buy 6 more AA batteries for the other c+ hub. I am programming everything using the powered up app.

Hi, I connected 4 CONTROL+ XL motors to a single robot inventor hub and used the robot inventor app to run them at 5% speed. It was fine other than the stupid app and hub cutting out all the.time (probably low battery). However I noticed that it takes like next to no effort for me to grab the wheel which the motors are driving and stop it rotating, then my program keeps running but the motors just give up permanantley and sit there. Yes, I know I could run them faster and gear them down, The problem with that is I need low mechanical noise and also gearing the motors would add friction (because gears are gears) and a bunch of more problems that I best just leave out to not make this question confusing. I know the motors definetley have enough torque because turning the wheel by hand without the motors running is harder than trying to stop the motors turning while it is running So it's probably the motors overload protection kicking in as well as the fact that the stupid app and hub is not sending much voltage to the motors. I can't see a code block to change the voltage, only the speed/duration. So my question is how do I get more torque out of control+ motors? I have 2 buwizz 2.0 and dont yet have any buwizz 3.0. also have a ton of control+ bluetooth hubs Regards, snipe.

I think the motorised functions are: Blade rotation, landing gear up/down, and winch. Manual functions are: Opening doors, cyclic blade adjustment, and collective blade adjustment.

I assume there is no HOG dial or lever for steering, but the front wheels will at least pivot.

so, 2 battery box levers, 3 gearbox levers, 4 cockpit levers, 2 sliding doors and 400 parts more than 42113, whats not to like :)

Thank you so very much.