MangaNOID

this is a very visually satisfying bot, but will that swoon the competition enough for you to get in there to do some damage? whilst i think this lacks some maneuverability, it makes up for it in the reaping prowess! that things like lightning! love it. eggs for breakfast this morning?

i'm not totally convinced of the weapon strength when up against another sturdy bot. But the defense seems pretty robust! yes, love the flip mechanism. hope it could work quick enough if needed, to start defending again.

its so common now its more like second party!

Great C model!

Just to take all the fun out of LEGO of course as we're adults n all.

Not to doubt but you should drive the same road in the other direction and average the two readings as it looked a little downhill in the vid. Just saying ya know, as one is claiming a world record with so many variables.

Haha...I guess I need to work on my writing and explaining skills...

what about measuring a distance out on the surface, say 50m and then time that and calculate, (making sure your car is up to top speed before that 50m of course) just time it out on the video playback for better accuracy perhaps. the you can use an underground smooth carpark like in the Video and no wind interference.

nice outside hub idea Didumos69! I've been putting the portal hub setup with just the wheel through some extra sideways hand forced treatment on the suspension with some of those typically used RC tires on. these wheels aren't slipping anywhere in a hurry. also you make me realise that the 3L pin comes in black! now I need to order a few hundred of these as I hate the blue pins!

Good to hear bearings work. Yes it's a bit un-pure but when hubs are so wobbly what does one do. i'd prefer a 7.5mm ID of the bearing though as then the wheel axle protrusion sits inside the breathing and hub creating better offset. or to keep it Lego one could drill that little wheel in the portal hub out to 7.5mm ID and half the wheel to a 1/2 L for the best compromise, if that makes sense? otherwise the first style in the first post with the 1L spacer works really well as I tried on the vehicle last night. Very happy!

yes the gray wheel with pins works well but the offset is increased again more than standard hubs...stupid compromises.

good point. especially if one is rock crawling, and then it could end up worse than normal portal hubs. also the wheel does touch the outside of the portal and then the wheel does not turn well so this is where you have to create a bit of a gap like usual on axles. I also tried one of these little wheels which fit perfectly inside. you can now have the wheel hard up against it for zero slop but obviously the wheel now has a small contact area and that setup feels flimsy. plus the offset is then increased. great idea Ivan! I tried a bit of plastic but it was too thick and the wheel barely moved. I will try this. have your hubs held up ok...i.e they haven't re-slackened?

good point Didumos69. although a lot of home made portal axles are the same wheel slip on design. also I just tried, as you mentioned it, and lifted 1090g with the wheel by picking up the axle, and no movement on the axle. any more weight created slipping. you could also add more axel bits on the outside of the wheel to hold it if slipping does occur?

I'm fairly new to lego and this forum, so forgive me if this has been posted before. I have been pretty disappointed in the hubs we get from LEGO sinse I started building the UNIMOG 8110 a few weeks ago. the slop/looseness in the hubs is pretty bad. anyway cutting a long story short I found that you can minimise slop by maybe 90% just by not using the 3 pin bit that sticks in them. photos explain better. normal 8 stop axel and with a 1L 'thingy' inside on the axel and then just put the wheel on. this also brings the portal hub in 1/2 stud closer lessening the bump steer, albeit a tiny amount. its pretty sturdy but would love to get a micro bearing that fits over the wheel axle protrusion but inside the portal hub. 11mm x 7.5mm x 3mm would do it. anyway I'm now excited about the UNIMOG again after almost giving up on it.

Thank you for the kind comments! I will try and take some more detailed photos of the claw tonight and edit this post with the information. I started trying to explain in words but I even confused myself...haha! OK, here are some photos. the two spindles in (almost) the original 42042 position now control just the claw. the spindle below them controls the crane arm. there is one M motor for each of the spindles. both strings go up the arm of course under the wheels at the lower end of the arm, then over the wheels nearer the top to keep the sting taught and neatly evenly aligned with the arm. two pair of wheels side by side at the top string ONE is tied to the very top of the claw assembly which kind of lifts the whole thing up and down. but string ONE will not lift a loaded claw. string TWO, which goes down around the wheel on the centre peice of the claw then up and ties on to the same bit string ONE is on (photos obviously show better than my explaining) provides clamp and lift to a loaded claw. Then you should bring string ONE up with it in operating or string ONE will be a loose floppy dangly thing. close up of claw inside of claw. the bottom of the claw is almost similar to original 42042 claw. I have swapped all pins to yellow 3 pins for free movement as the inside bit needs very smooth/easy pulling operation so it doesnt lift the outside of the claw also. i put two half size 6L arms down the centre bit. the two grey 3L axels and pin things on them are there to add extra weight to help the inside claw bit lower itself within the outside assembly. it all makes sense when you build it and try operating it even just by hand. one yellow 3L pin at the bottom of the two half 6L arms is all that holds the inside bit to the outside claw bit. hope that helps anyone build the RC claw. its hard to describe how to operate it so just build it, its easy to get used too. I'll probably build a second 42042 with the bits left from my second set and have it more as a hands on non RC crane like the original, but have the gearbox levers operate this claw setup (leaving out the forward/reverse drive) to make it a bit more pure lego rather than sbricks and iphones etc. that way its seems better for a small kid to play with.

That's the problem though with LEGO (and the reason I probably wont [have time to] MOC much), in that you can change a thousand things. I didn't even know what a coaxial was until I started this MOD so I may hold off on the subtractor etc for now. I liked the challenge of integration on original chassis and the subtractor looks like it cant do that? looks great though!

Kind comments thank you! the claw idea has been around for a while I think? I saw a couple similar on YouTube and tried to re create my own version as small and minimal as possible. It works great! A small problem with how the crane is now is that the slewing is a bit 'sticky' (you can see in the first bit of the video) or rather there is a bit of slack or movement when not being used. Maybe the worm gear plays a small part in that. ridgidity of the structure comes a lot from the side panels now. if there is enough interest I could do instructions but that means taking apart and my daughter and I really enjoy using the crane, it's a great toy now! Although it disrupts my wife meditating with the beeping ?

hey all, I thought I may share my Modded 42042 crawler crane. hopefully this presents as a little bit different than others (there is many ofcourse) this 42042 has 2 Sbricks, 6 M-motors 2 L-motors and sound functions! because I wanted a small challenge in the build (as this was my first Lego set in 30 years since i was 12) I decided to have a coaxial system integrated in the original chassis and keep all the motors etc up top. also I only used bits from 42042...well except the sound functions and motors and Sbricks :) I wanted to keep a few charecters of the original 42042 aswell such as ladder and continuous noise when operating. originally I was going to try running a motor with some cogs to get the noise but then thought of a pneumatic pump to get a more 'pop' engine sound. so I have one motor hooked up to a 8110 pump for continuous 'engine' sound. this is where i thought it got interesting as I was trying to amplify this sound with Lego bits and ended up with a whistle/beep sound! so now I have another 8110 pump hooked up to another motor connected to 'circuits' mode in Sbrick to operate it when the crane moves or slews. it all just squeezes in the original body size. I changed the slewing cog to be at the same plane as the turntable because the original setup would not let me slew even 200 grams without cog skipping. I had to fully plate the lower chassis so the cog could not work its way off. the coaxial drive took a while to get right too as I really had to stiffen the pre turntable bits up. there is a few photos of progressive attempts. anyway there is a whole bunch of changes and I'll just let the photos and video speak for themselves. hope you like. oh and also just want to say that after doing this video I really appreciate how everyone does videos here as they are a lot of work! I thought they would be easy compared to the animated short films I do but this vid was a lot of work so thanks to all for Video efforts. to skip to the sound function bits (if you dont want to see another video of 42042) go to 3mins roughly

sorry just had to test img posting

very nice 42042 and love the idea of the boom spring thing as I have had small problems with that myself recently when modding mine. I thought I was finished modding mine but I may test this out when I have time. And the 700g at 80cm is very impressive!

these ships are marvelous! and they just pop with the lighting.

thats really cool! looks like a handfull to play with from that vid, haha!, i like it and really good height on those forks! would love to see internal operations/design. I just love 42042 set also! so many variations comming out for C model. well done indeed.

yes! I've been spending hours and hours the last week trying to mold something to connect a 360 servo with lego.

16:10 34:6 22:4 12:3 5:2 20:1

hey all I'll try posting this in the right section this time! happy to be here. seeing some great lego stuff here as I start my new lego life at 41 (I have a child now) not much of a MOC'a myself most likely will be MOD'ing if I can haha! some MOC's I see are well impressive.