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AkiyamaWataru

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by AkiyamaWataru

  1. Hey imurvai, Do you plan to realease the sourcecode? I want to work on an application for raspberry pi3 and am interested in your approach to the android app. I'm wondering if crosscompatibility wouöd be feasable but this depends on the architectur.
  2. I meant it in comparisson to the scale. I have seen the camber on Mk2 VW Golf on the rear end and stuff. It was meant for lego as Sabewing said
  3. MindGarage just a note for you. You don't get Kingpin Inlcination by moving the upper wishbone a bit to the back. The upper wishbone has to be moved a bit to the center of the front axle. That givs the inclination. For Camber: the effects on lego cars are neglectible i think. And mostly not visible.
  4. What I can see now: No Kingpin Inclination No Caster. The wheelhub is usable for caster creation but you should move the upper wishbone a bit to the back of the car. Maybe changing Camber but it looks like in the wrong direction. If my knowledge is correct you don't want less camber when the suspension compresses. Normaly you lean on the outer wheel and compress it's suspension. If you do that you are working with camber to increase the contact patch of the tire. Try building a Mockup-Chassis to place it. think about shock attachment. If you want I'll post a picture of my suspension later. I'm still working on it. It is a driven and steered doublewishbone supension as yours.
  5. Hey Alasdair, can you post a picture taken from directly above the wishbones? As you are building a driven suspension one hint: your cv-joint could be pulling the u-joint from the wheelhub. I had the same problem with a similar setup. Easiest solution is filling the gab between the u-joint and the cv-joint with half bushes und bushings. What I'm wondering: how do you keep the attachement point of the lower wishbone fixed to the attachementpoint of the upper wishbone and the chassis? It looks kind of wierd and wobbly.
  6. Differs for me: As I work in two stages. I have to working sets: a) Putting bricks together: It's the offline Task and uses a table with my bricks and when working on a scaled modell a calculator, a ruler, pens, blueprints and sometimes the internet to use things like sariels little helpers. There is often something to drink, a cat to comfort my self (sleeping ready for kuddling). b) Digitizing the assembled bricks: For that i use my kowledge of the modell and rebuild it in LDD (if possible) therefore: something to dring, the staged modell, my computer
  7. Very Cool Sariel. Watched it with my son and he just said: "Bagger!" It's German for Excavator
  8. Thanks Lego Nerd and Didumos. @Didumos I'll have a read into the article you mentiond :)
  9. Thanks for the hint. But lighter batteries won't help with it's turningradius.
  10. Excuse me for double posting. I'm wondering wether positiv caster is needed for a steered rear axle?
  11. Hello Ladies and Gentlemen, I have a short update for you. I fitted a newly arrived servo and a steering system and what can i say: I am not satisfied. After some drive tests I realized the turning radius is ginormous. I will be implementing a 4 wheel steering. For now a picture of the car The wiring is preliminary. I still need a second s-brick. The black s-brick-like/case thing is just a placeholder. But that will take some time, as I have to rebuild the entire chassis.
  12. With a 'belly shot' we want to look under the skirt of the truck and see the underbody. That way we can easily see how you build your internal structure and maybe learn something from it. Simply speaken: Please make a picture from bellow the truck
  13. I never said I would not agree with Sariels review. For me it is to flawed to pay a whopping 300€ for it. It would be a simple partspackage. But when looking at it as a DISPLAY-MODEL it might be great. I think that was the thing Itallian Brick wanted to throw into the room. You never said he is a god. You just behaved like it. From what i read Itallian Brick was never respectless. He just put a vallid point. And this point is the question from which perspective the review is made. Jim stated it nice. To answer wether the Porsche is good or not is to answer what you expect. For a technic set it looks good and the lines are well formed. From the mechanics side: Its a simple nightmare. Its inaccuracy brings me to shed tears. It's not working properly. But hey if you just want a pretty set with a pretty packaging for display: Put it on your shelf.
  14. I don't think it's respectless, when one is pointing on a thing Sariel might have overlooked. ItallianBrick just stated is opinion in calling the review harsh. Sariel is just a famous AFOL not a god!
  15. What would help is a shot from the side, so we can see what is supporting your track. :) Edit: Effe that were just seconds!
  16. It was only an example. But I still am in doubt wether it is good or not (not worth it!). I will wait for the reviews.
  17. The problem here is the hype and the expactations it generated. I for myself am in fear of being heavily disappointed. Maybe this will lay when the first reviews arrive, but for now I am full of doubt. I have been getting on my wifes nerves with the porsche since nuremburg toy fair. And now.... I don't know! It's not the money. For christs sake if i would only look on money, I would not build with Lego. All this information about the limited steering angle and so on can lead to uncertainties and doubt, wether this is a good set or not. Hell for packaging and looks it is! For functions? I don't know. And that is the killer point for me. A set has to look good and function well. I for a point like 42039 and dislike it for the automation of wrong parts (Door-Opening as an example) edit: typos
  18. Short note on crankshadt geometry: most european and japanese v8 use flat plane crankshafts. Even more to get usefull power and revving characteristics. The cross plane crank shaft comes with really mega bloksy firing order ( two asjacent cylinders fire in sequence and this hinders gas exchange with normal exhaust headers)
  19. For now only obe is filled but yes its getting heavy. The bigger problem was fitting them.
  20. Didomus thats the failure I have. I will try the double half bushes as a solution Edit: Your solution works :) Thank you
  21. For the none Germanspeaking: They worked 7 hours on it The have to take a break now and don't know when they can resume the build (they have some appointments) In text it is stated that he did not build alone he had help
  22. Hey Guys, an update from my side. new stuff: Steering Rack has been build and testet with a testrig (i have no servo yet) Battery Boxes have now a mounting mechanism for them I found a problem i still can not solve: While driving the drive-shafts of the front axle move to the inside and dislodge from the wheelhub axle. I use the new CV-Joints on the diff-side of the suspension. Is there a way to stop that or force the parts back while steering? If further information about the construction is needed, I can upload a LXF-File with the construction
  23. Very nice MOCs. The idea of a center diff not for front rear but for left right distribution is interresting. How did you implement it? Would be cool to learn about. Fun fact from my brain: I read Grasshopper and had to think of a heavy Battlemech of the Mechwarrior/ Classic Battletech series. Second thought: Does a Chieftain Mech exist?
  24. Hey guys! A short update from my side. I just finished the rough chassis und positioned the steering rack. What I did as a list flipped the outputs of the rear-wheel-drive-motors to the back of the car. It's more convenient for cable routing created the main longitudinal beams for the chassis and now have the geometry for the car simplified the front wheel drive. Dropped the 2 M-Motors and replaced it with a single L-Motor Now some Pictures: the chassis section side view total view modified wheel hub with elongated attachment for steering link engine config And again: Thanks for Comments PS for Didomus: Ground Clearing of Chassis is 4 Studs, The Bearings for Lower Wishbones have 3 Studs Clearance Suspension Travel: It's a bit shorter then expected but i have about 20mm (2.5 Studs) of Travel And for now I drop the Portal Axles
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