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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Today I replaced the turntables in the front wheel hubs, because the old ones showed quite some wear and slack. This time I lubricated the turntables with silicon spray (I think silicon spray was suggested by @Permo on the previous page) to avoid wear. The turntables in the rear wheel hubs are still quite okay, so I didn't replace them, but I did lubricate them too. Here you see the difference between one of the replaced turntables and a new one. I also noticed the springs showed some wear, so I lubricated those too. And that was the best thing I could have done. The suspension is so smooth now, especially in the back. No matter what I do, the suspension always returns to the same level. I can't stop playing with it:
  2. Hello, if you want to stay close to the original and fix all issues, you could try the unofficial errata. You do need about 30 extra parts though. If you want the most complete package of community mods, you could walk the pimp up my Porsche path, but that would require significantly more parts.
  3. @mj002 and @BusterHaus, here's an LXF-file showing the reverse building steps (in terms of groups) that I followed for the bodywork and V8-engine + M-motor. I will update the file when I continued the stepping for the chassis. When I build from this type of stepped LXF-file, I first delete each group (depth-first) from top to bottom and then with Ctrl-Z (undo) I restore each deleted group, step by step. You can select the parts in a group by clicking on the group in the group panel. When it's a big assembly I sometimes copy and paste the entire group to take a better look.
  4. So you're doing it again ! The 3L brown axle is key to the (dis)assembly of this section. I can best explain in reverse steps: Take out the 5L axles holding the headrests and remove the headrests by pulling them up. Take out the 3L brown axles. Remove the white beams behind the seats by pulling them forward. Make sure the pins with axle hole besides the headrests are removed (I can't see if they are still there). Now pull the entire right side of the roof (including all blue parts) to the right, while rotating it slightly along the point where the #3 connector in the back is connected. When the side of the roof disconnects, pull the entire assembly, including the parts you painted red, forward. EDIT: Do the same for the left side. No, why do you ask? As far as I know, yes. EDIT: I do use an axle as a tool to push another axle out.
  5. I had a separate LXF-file with groups representing steps, but it's not valid anymore after all the changes. I'm working on a new version and I will share it as soon as it's ready. It will take a few days I think. It can be build without stressing parts .
  6. It's red and it has a menacing stance to it. So for a name, I'd suggest: "Road Rage". Bu I agree it's all up to you of course.
  7. @Ron1, by now there are so many reports on 'disconnecting' (sometimes not connecting) BuWizzes in situations that give no reason for this behavior, that I think BuWizz.com should start addressing these issues. For me the problems seem to be solved after switching to the BrickController app, but at the cost of more lag. Others do experience the same problems when using the BrickController app. If you want BuWizz to be a long-term success, I think it will be necessary for BuWizz.com to do some research, test the BuWizz app on different phones, try to reproduce the issues and give pointers on how to resolve them.
  8. Looking good! I will integrate it into the chassis.
  9. I only occasionally scan your posts, but yesterday I took the time to read the last few pages about building the bucketwheel excavator. And it was a joy to read. I don't know what your exact situation is - I don't have to - but between the lines I test a strong relativating attitude in your building efforts and I can not escape the impression that you have the same attitude towards life. Certainly not after reading the winged statement above. I think it should be your pay-off instead of 'Old Fart'. And hats off for finishing this great project !
  10. Cool, it's on The LEGO Car Blog! I guess I have to thank @Lipko for this. Thanks! Some front-page-recognition after all , for in that regard I don't expect much from the moderators here anymore .
  11. For the rear softer springs certainly won't work and for the front I have serious doubts too.
  12. Thanks for your kind words! A lot of the performance has to do with the BuWizzes of course, but I also did my best to minimize friction with a very simple drivetrain. Another thing I think is important for the final behavior is that I did not minimize weight to the absoulute minimum. Weight adds to the cars inertia and makes it respond lazy to bumps, just like a real car. Add a max steering angle of 30 degrees to that and you get a realistic body roll while cornering as well. The car's own weight makes it sink in its suspension for about 40%, which makes the car glue to the ground. Together with the 4WD this keeps the car going despite taking curbs or other obstacles. Of course extra weight decreases performance in terms of speed, but imo handling and roadholding are also important aspects of performance. I don't know. If the seats are left out, the BuWizzes could be replaced with the 8878 rechargeable battery boxes and I expect the performance to be comparable with @agrof's Class 1 unlimited buggy or - when combined with SBrick - @Madoca 1977's Baja Trophy Truck, but I did not test this.
  13. Thanks @nerdsforprez! I appreciate your kind words. But like all of us, I'm still learning. With this buggy I think I have produced something as rigid as my rugged supercar, but with less constructs. Thanks!
  14. Here is a (3,4,12,13)-quadruple. The angles made by the #3-connectors are 157.5 degrees, close to the 157.38 degrees needed. I used this in the back of my 4WD RC Buggy.
  15. I suppose you mean something LEGO. I only know about @Rudivdk's 7-Seater, but it has a longitudinally placed gearbox.
  16. I like the concept and it seems to be working . One thing I noticed: At timestamp 31 the speed of the big gear at the left side of the gearbox oscillates. This indicates friction. Perhaps you could address that. I suppose the chassis is not done yet, so I won't comment on that.
  17. Thanks guys! I'm indeed the most proud of how it behaves in turns and in taking curbs. I'm planning to make photo instructions, but that will probably take a few more weeks...
  18. For those following this WIP-topic: I finished the model and presented a final photo-shoot and the final video in a separate MOC-topic. Just a few last WIP-update words. I reduced the number of parts by 200. I also removed the transversal inclined beams I reported about a few days ago. Eventually I could reduce slack in the rear suspension arm mounts much more efficiently and with far less parts. During Ascension day I made all the adjustments to the model. I had to take the whole model apart to make all the adjustments . This also allowed me to clean everything: I am never going to make this model wet and dirty again, what a pain cleaning is . Thank you very much to everybody who supported me throughout the last half year ! Special thanks to @agrof - who's Class 1 Buggy got me started - for some simplifications to the front axles, to @nerdsforprez for his suggestion on wrapping silicon bands around the U-joint axle holes, to @Leonardo da Bricki for suggesting the CLAAS tires, to @Lipko for thinking with me on locking-in the steering rods and to @kbalage for giving me directions on using one or two BuWizzes. And a big thanks for everybody else who made suggestions etc. Without your help I could not have done this.
  19. I suppose because they don't appear in sets since 2015. I guess the newer hub holder is really meant to replace the old one.
  20. They are wrapped around the U-joint axle holes 4 times, but apparently you already know.
  21. Thanks guys! I have no idea. During the summer I will probably not do any serious Technic. I shot about half an hour of videos at full speed without recharching and the BuWizz shows green/orange LED lights. I think it is about 2/3rd empty. So 45min. at full speed is the max I think. I did not have that problem since I use the Brickcontroller app. It has a little lag, which makes it slightly harder to control, but I'm really enjoying it now. It should be. Note that it has placeholders for the BuWizzes. I removed the transversal inclined beams I reported about in the wip-topic recently. Eventually I could reduce slack in the rear suspension arm mounts much more efficiently and with far less parts.
  22. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  23. Well I'm a bit cautious with sharing an LDD file without having built it. I'm afraid your going to have to wait a little. Unless..., see below. I gave this some thought, but I fear it will be practically impossible, not without severely declining the models behaviour. It all comes very precise, the amount by which the suspension is compressed under the car's own weight and the amount of travel provided by the spring. The small springs have one stud travel and the large springs have 2 studs travel. If I want comparable behaviour, I will have to down-scale the triangle made by the mounting points of the springs and the rotation point of the suspension arms to which the springs are mounted by 50%. That would bring the spring too close to the motors in the rear and too close to the 2L red connectors above the motors in the front. So, I'm sorry, but I'm not going to make such modifications. No problem. Thanks! And it feels very rewarding btw. Some constructions were made when only part of the bodywork was done and can be simplified a lot now that there are more points to attach things to. By now I removed 160 parts, effectively. That brings the total from 2040 to 1880 parts. I would be willing to share the LDD temporarily, but only for review-purposes. So, if you want to help me simplifying and finalizing things, please PM me. Don't think too light about this, you need to really read the model to able to do so, but any suggestion would be welcome.
  24. I heard the Bugattit will have a City-theme B-model, because of its high ratio of studded parts :D
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