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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Didumos69
    Does anyone have software to change the perspective even more so we can see the behind?
  2. Didumos69
    My built-set-count is zero. I can't remember building a set without modding it right away. I recall building 8848 in 1981 and I immediately sturdified the chassis. More recently I replaced the spring suspension with much softer torsion bar suspension and added Ackermann geometry to that.
  3. Didumos69
    Okay, let's all go check out the back of the box now . Nice info if there is nothing to look at.
  4. Didumos69
    I agree with @agrof. If it were a MOC, people would probably cheer about the original use of panels in the front . As for holes and boxy look, let's not forget this is a Technic model. To outsiders all Technic models look like insects. Strange vehicles with some kind of external skeleton. To me, making a good looking Technic replica is about capturing the lines of the original in a consistent way and so far I have no reason to think LEGO failed in doing that.
  5. Didumos69
    Thanks! And cool that you've started building this model! One thing I noticed: The wheel-side of the wheel-hubs are missing the 5L axles with stop to attach the wheels to. But you probably thought they can be added later quite easily. I'm very curious how it turns out in red! Thanks guys!
  6. Didumos69
    I'm actually starting to like it. The eye-brows are maybe a bit too angry, but the inclined #5 panels above the headlights and the beams behind them do catch the lines of the original very nicely.
  7. Didumos69
    Someone corrected the perspective based on the logo and text on the box. I think it looks already better now.
  8. Didumos69
    Haha! I had to ask my son for the hammer-pieces as well. I ever removed the differential from his 42037 and replaced it with an axle, because I needed the small bevel gear, hoping he would not notice. He demanded me to put it back immediately . Since that event, I ask him politely when I need some of his parts . I did test with this. It did not come apart during testing, but it introduces a lot of slack in the steering links. Too much imo. But in my case the 1x6 plates only came loose once, after a severe crash. You could give it a try though.
  9. Didumos69
    I think half a stud offset will be enough. One stud might be too much.
  10. Didumos69
    Team "Birds fly backwards when we don't look." (Source: https://youtu.be/LlXvBYgjR5I)
  11. Didumos69
    Looking good! I see you are using steering parts for the rear axles. How did you mount the steering links? I would advise to place them such that they span slightly more length then they are supposed to, so you get a firm rear axle.
  12. Didumos69
    Thanks for your report. I guess the front axles are the most vulnerable area. I also broke 2 U-joints over time and after a crash the front wheel hubs sometimes came apart. The most frustrating was when a pin with towball popped out of the gear rack assembly. It was a pain to put it back. But after filling the area in front of the gearrack this didn't happen anymore. Btw, do you have the hammer-pieces inserted in the pins connecting the steering rods to the wheel hubs? Update: Today I made a test-drive with slightly different front wheel hubs, which use 5L axles with end-stop instead of short (old) versions of the 5.5L axle. It performs equally well. I made this change to make it more easy for others to build this. It's the last thing I wanted to do before I make photo sequence instructions.
  13. Didumos69
    I am in Team flexless, Team eliminate all unnecessary friction, Team Pythagorean triples, quadruples and their whole-number-incircles, Team freestyle (vs. Team replica), Team form-locking, Team WIP-topic over MOC-topic and accept you will never be front-paged or PRO-tagged.
  14. Didumos69
    Thank you very much @mj002! Your color scheme looks really cool actually. Now that you have built it, what is your opinion about the complete model? EDIT: I noticed you skipped a few changes to the chassis. You did that intentionally?
  15. Didumos69
    No, I didn't think it was fake, it's just that we can be even more certain about it being real.
  16. Didumos69
    So we can conclude this was a true image (the same image actually), but it shows quite different shades of blue...
  17. Didumos69
    This was exactly my issue too. I do like the holes to the center-facing sides of the headlights though. This is what I missed in @Leviathan's Chiron.
  18. Didumos69
    Someone already did. EDIT: See two posts back. I was assuming my posts would merge, but things are going fast here.
  19. Didumos69
  20. Didumos69
    I expect something like this...
  21. Didumos69
    It looks just like I expected. Not bad at all for a stock LEGO set, although I do fear the nose is too long. But I need to see a side view to judge better. If there are no further leaks, there will be enough left to be curious about for the 1st of June.
  22. Didumos69
    I suppose TLG had such guidelines, but if I look at 42056, there are quite some parts rubbing against each other in the stock paddle shifter unit. No to mention the 8t gear attached to a pin with friction. Over time using a friction pin as friction clutch will make the friction pin more smooth and decline the assumed friction. Working brakes would be most playable and with the least wear if both the caliper and the disc would have flat hard plastic sides rubbing against each other. EDIT: Please don't tell my wife we are actually discussing LEGO pieces rubbing each other .
  23. Didumos69
    Maybe the new disc brake is integrated with a replacement for the wheel-side of the wheel hub, with far less slack in it. Even better if such a new piece would go hand in hand with a replacement of the CV-joint. A replacement which would allow for more than 20 degree steering angle.
  24. Didumos69
    With the new intermediate disc brake pieces there might be so much slack in the wheels, the calipers may engage unintentionally .
  25. Didumos69
    Master piece of art!
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