ecmo47

Wow! That is spectacular! I was hoping we would be getting some fleet pictures when you completed the Blockade runner. So I guess that you had kid duty while the photographer was busy recording your masterpiece? There are several more ships that could be built but they are all pretty small and insignificant. Looking forward to any future projects.

What Cjd said. It's just friction. If they start to droop, push the cones on each vane together (towards the center). Mine have stayed in position for about a week now.

One last mod I felt was helpful. I wanted to be able to make the top panel on the back removable based on others comments. Also, the panel felt very fragile and I didn't think it would survive installation. I was positive it would NOT survive removal as necessary. First thing I did was to cover up all the studs on the frame as shown here: DSC01700 by Scott Roys, on Flickr On the top plate, I pulled up the detail along the two front-to-back plate seams and covered them (the seems) with two 2x16's. This really firms up the entire assemble. I then put the detail back on and rearranged it as necessary. This is what the bottom looks like: DSC01702 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Not sure if I'd use the word "well" but it is together! It is by far the most complicated and challenging project I have ever done. Even though Cavegods AT-AT has some stabilization issues it wasn't difficult to build. I'm still amazed at Mortesv's building and designing skills and am very grateful for your building instructions. As mentioned, I built the AT-AT from LDD and while there were plenty of floating parts, it was possible to power through and figure it out. I'm not sure that would have been possible with this model. As detailed by my many post, I made several changes along the way which improved my model. There is still plenty of tweaking to do and I need to figure out how to transport it with out too much damage. I also need to add some micro-fighter to the scene. I want to take some better pictures too.

Sandtrooper: The stand is as explained back on page 7. The pictures of the LDD screen grab should explain everything. Annnnnndddd...I'm pretty much done!!! DSC01715 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Great fun!! Love the leaping High Speed passenger train.

DSC01698 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01696 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Getting closer! Parts arrived while I was out last week. The new stand works out great. The front one is not needed now and neither is the center one (I think). I just built it today so I do not know if it will sag over time.

Yeah, I debated about sticking that piece in and that spot is not very obvious. I need to round up it's mate for the other side. DSC01691 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Looks to be 44 inches.

^How long did it take to process?

In North America, the promo starts at midnight eastern standard time. One thing that needs to be pointed out in this promotion is the use of the word "any". This means to me that I can order a $5.99 key chain and receive the promo currently worth upwards to $50.00. On top of that Lego.com is currently has free shipping until 30 Sept. So for a single order of one keychain, I will receive an item worth about 8x it's value. Unless Lego is doing a better job at screening orders, the Brickpicker crowd will be will jam the site starting at midnight with single keychain orders. Sure, there is the possibility of all your orders get cancelled and possible banishment but the bottom line is that Lego.com will be jammed from the get-go and the promo quickly wiped-out. It's 5:02 AM and my one order is still "procssing". I hate it when I'm right.

Im not going to make my 1 Oct goal. I was feeling pretty optimistic last weekend when everything was done except panel installation. As I was working on installing one of the big panels on the back section that from the "V", I knocked it off the stand(s). While the frame stayed intact, greeble went flying. So back to figuring out where it all goes back to. I will have to say the the frame is very sturdy and can take a lot of abuse! So while re-installing parts and pieces, my mind got to considering a more stable stand, particularly one that was attached to the bottom of the lower fin. Here is my first attempt that did not require any changes the basic construction. Unfortunately, the four single points of contact did not prove to be stable enough. DSC01688 by Scott Roys, on Flickr One thing to point out in this picture is the change to the ends of the DGB pod. I used a 1x3 plate across the ends and then added a 3x3 dish to cap it off. The plate ties the ends together nicely. So back to the drawing board on the stand and here is the new idea: Neb st Trans-Clear lift arms only come to types: #32278 (1x15) and #32009 (1x11.5 Double bent). (In the picture, I have colored the trans pieces a little darker then normal so you can see them better.) The basic mod here is that the four bottom 1x9 liftarms, (one pictured here in green) are replaced by four 1x15 trans lift-arms (only one pictured here). This will give you five hole to choose from to hook on the four bent lift-arms. The blue pin is barely covered by the outer fin panel but you do not want to fill the other 4 holes with pins as it will ruin the illusion of transparency. Anyway this looks like it should be nice and stable. I haven't built it yet, as I am waiting for the trans parts to come in before I rip apart the fin frame to make the change. I'm hoping that the wide base will eliminate the need for at least the nose support. I'll let you know how it goes. Why am I wasting so much time on these mods? I hope that it will be stable enough to survive a brush or two with Princess here who loves to "help" out! DSC01690 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Nothing Star Wars at TRU. They have 4 minfigure sets with 4 figures per set for Bricktober. Week 1 : Musicians Week 2 : Warriors Week 3: Athletes Week 4: Cops and Robbers

Here's the Bricklink link for set 8007-1. It's an uncommon set but I would not say that it is particular valuable, rare or in high demand. Used, it should get you about $65.00 USD (85 AUD). http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8007-1#T=S&O={}

In North America, the promo starts at midnight eastern standard time. One thing that needs to be pointed out in this promotion is the use of the word "any". This means to me that I can order a $5.99 Star Wars key chain and receive the promo currently worth upwards to $50.00. On top of that Lego.com is currently has free shipping until 30 Sept. So for a single order of one key chain, I will receive an item worth about 8x it's value. Unless Lego is doing a better job at screening orders, the Brickpicker crowd will jam the site starting at midnight with single key chain orders. Sure, there is the possibility of all your orders get cancelled and possible banishment but the bottom line is that Lego.com will be jammed from the get-go and the promo quickly wiped-out. I'm sure some computer smart guy has his order-bot programmed and ready to go. I hope I'm wrong. I don't understand how Lego could make such an obvious blunder.

The MF designed by Mortesv would be just right if you wanted to extend the scene a little. DSC01560 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Welp, in the continuing saga of ecmo47's Neb-B build, I just finished the sand green pod and installed it. It was a tad tricky and I had to remove a few parts to get it slipped in-between the frame. In the process, I discovered that the DGB pod above it was a 1/2 stud off so I had to adjust that which wasn't too hard. The pod build was very straight forward with no issues. My only note here is that there were many buried sand green parts. When I made that discovery, I took that part(s) out and replaced them with LBG or DBG parts since those buggers are more expensive than gold! This brings me to another unmentioned tip: order plenty of extra plates in these sizes: 1x1, 1x2, 1x2, 2x3 1x4, I've used MANY extra plates to strengthen weak areas so that my model will be reasonable sturdy for transportation to shows (hopefully). One part that I have found extremely useful is the 3x3 plate (#11212). Mortesv has only 2 on the parts list (one DBG and one LBG) but get at least 20 LBG and you will find plenty of places for them to go. I just peeked at step 702: installing the last two black 1x15 lift arms in the frame. NOT looking forward to that! Lots of pre-installed pins in the way that will have to be removed. (How Cjd223 broke down this model into coherent steps is beyond me!)

Engines Top View. The 11 Girodyne Ter58 Ion Turbine Engines in all their glory! Here you can see all the details and cables on the engines. I considered using rigid cables, but I had to heat them up to get the proper shape. The cables were also too thick. However, I found that by placing a 1x2 bracket in the side panels I could place levers on top of them. The levers convey thin cables running from the sides of the engine to its core. Just a thought. Did you think about using this part x169 (Utensil Stretcher Holder Flexible) for the engine piping? It doesn't come in White but does come Black, LBG, Old light grey Dark Red, and Reddish-Brown. Perhaps part 93225 (Utensil Spray Gun, which only comes in black) could be useful.

A great representation of my favorite Star Wars ship! Outstanding detail throughout. The only area that is a detractor from the model are the afterburners. It's very hard area to model but somehow the exhaust gases need to pass through it for that extra speed needed on the trench run!

Still chugging along and finally acheived a milestone. It's on the stand! Hallelujah! Man, it's been a real pain in the rear starting about page 460 when you had to flip it and work on the bottom. Problem was that there is no way to keep from knocking off all your finely placed top greeble. You can see the "greeble grave yard" scattered about that is testament to my ham-handed clumsiness. Now that it is fairly stable, I will have to go back and fix all these details. It don't know if is possible, but future builders might want to try to construct the skeleton and then go back for the details. Cant be any worse then my 2 steps forward and one back approach. Hoping for a 1 Oct completion date but that will depend on how fussy the wife gets about re-painting the guest room! DSC01675 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Another great model! You are certainly a master builder and a very fast one too! I look forward to adding this superb model to the fleet if I can ever get the Neb-B done! That's a cute picture of your son and I was thinking of all kinds of statements for a word balloon like: "I cant wait to "help" Dad build." Dad can do the constructin' and I'll do the destructin'!" "Whoop-de-doo, I'm a Star Trek fan." Anybody else?

Neb-B back end reinforcement by Scott Roys, on Flickr Building has not been going very fast. Been a lot of "life" getting in the way of long building sessions! I sat down today and created an LDD file of the mods I made to the back end frame before I moved on and forgot/covered up all the changes. Notes of the LDD file: 1. The parts for the two panels that form the "V" need to be color specific but the frame parts can be pretty much any color. As long as you have them in Black, Light Blue Grey or Dark Blue Grey, they will blend in just fine. 2. Parts in Yellow are the attachment points to the model built as per the Instructions. Delete off before making a parts list with LDD. 3. The two horizontal 1x13 lift arms are not quite aligned right on LDD. The problem is that the center attachment point is a tad lower then the two end points. It's very easy to force the pins into place so do not worry that they do not line up perfectly in LDD. (Yes, there is a touch of irony here as one of the reason for this re-construction was a reluctance to force liftarms into position as detailed a few pages back!) 4. If anybody wants the LDD file of this mod, just send me your email and I'll send you the file. One other bit of information that will make life easier for future builders. The parts file calls for 160 Technic pins WITHOUT friction ridges (part #3673). Make sure, instead, to get part #2780 (Technic pins WITH friction ridges). Which pin you use when building the backbone doesn't matter but it does make a big difference when using them to attach the many part #2444 (Modified 2x2 plate with single pin hole). Without the friction ridges, the plates spin freely and refuse to stay in position (studs pointing the right way) when attempting to attach the many greebled hull plate assembles to the frame. In the end, I replaced all of part #2444 with LBG #2817 (Modified 2x2 plate with pin holeS). I attached them to the frame with part #6558 (3L pin with friction ridges). Both of these parts are plentiful and cheap.This simple mod made will make your life MUCH easier towards the end of the build. DSC01670 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

You need to be reading this thread: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=135699 On a side note, I wish the mods would close this thread and just keep the building thread open. It's creating confusion!

You both goofed it up! HangAr: a place to store airplanes/ spaceships etc. HangEr: that metal or wood thing in your closet to keep your cloths neat and tidy. English class over. Nice MOC!

I finally made some real progress tonight enough though it may not look it! Basically I beefed up the back frame fairly significantly to strengthen various weak points and remove general "spongyness" which makes it hard to attach the greebled panels. DSC01660 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01665 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01668 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Wow!! It's amazing that expert builders keep coming up with new ways to skin the same cat. Is it better than LiLmeFromDaFuture? No, but it is certainly on par and explores some very interesting techniques to solve angle issues. Well Done!!