ecmo47

Alright! Somebody to compare building notes with! I've already received 5 of 10 orders but have one coming from Czech Republic and one from South Korea which will slow things up.

Like this from Revenge of the Sith (ROTS)? CR-90 from ROTS 2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr No more notes that what has already been posted. If you want my scrubbed parts list, just send me a PM with your email address. There are many options to replace part #85941 (Cylinder Half 2x4x5 with 1x2 cut out). Most do not look quite as "clean" as the cylinders though. Here is one option that looks pretty good. Part #46212 (1x2x5 brick) is pretty common but runs about 60 cents (USD) so it's not a cheap option as you need 4 per section. Tie your column together with a couple #11833 (4x4 round plate with 2x2 hole). (Bricks shown here in blue for visual clarity.) Pedastol option 1 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Oops. Didn't check that part availability on that suggestion. I wonder if you could mod the engines so that a yellow or gold 3x3 disk is buried behind a couple trans-clear disks.

Break------------------ Just grabbed this screen-shot off You-tube to make a case of multiple CR-90's in your fleet. Also, looks like trans-yellow would be a more accurate engine color. Battle of Scarif screen shot 3xCR-90 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Parts are all ordered! Building will hopefully commence soon. I'll post updates of progress. I'm sure some are curious on the cost. I spent $473.58 on 10 orders. I pulled some parts out of my collection but most were purchased. I always over buy (maybe for a 2nd CR-90?) so you may be able to get by cheaper with you stick with exact parts counts. I ordered by targeting the parts with highest quantity/rarity and then added whatever else that shop had. The first part ordered were the thirty-two 4275 and 4276 1x2 plate hinges in light grey. Mortesv said that he used a different hinge system on his CR-90 as these are getting a little hard to find, thanks to the Neb-B build! Also, target the 91x #11477 and the trans-clear stand pieces. Once I got down to about 60 lots, I created a Brinklink "wanted" list and that helped locate the final needed lots.

Thanks, Gentlemen. I was able to locate them per EKae direction. Since they are not visual, what purpose did they have? They do not appear to assist in creating any of the odd slopes of the fuselage side wings.

Still working through the parts list and came to part #3043 (slope 45 2x2 Double) in Light Blue Grey. They are rare and about $5.00 each! https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=3043&colorID=86 I could not find them on the LDD this morning on a quick look. Where are they? I'm looking to substitute are different part (2x1, 2x3, or 2x4 double slope) or a different color (white). Anybody tried to generate the building guide yet? My compute has been thinking about it for 10 minutes and is only at 2 studs and now I have to go to work.

I took another look at your stand this morning and noticed this connection on the front. Due to the top-heaviness, this joint doesn't have enough connection points and will lean badly which will probably cause the stud connections right below it to separate. Make sure the vertical lift-arms are well pinned to any Technic beams that make up the foot part of the stand. Again, refer to my stand picture back on page 7. Neb foot by Scott Roys, on Flickr If used conservatively, I think that they will look alright with black. The problem is that there are only 2 kinds of trans liftarms: 1x15 and the 1x11.5 double bent.

I made a foot for the bottom of the stalactite which is described back on page 7 of this thread that works very well. It does eliminate the need for the front and middle supports. From that experience, I will tell you that you will need a wider base on the port (left) and starboard (right) feet. On the back, I think that the support points to the ship are good but I don't think that the stand itself will be robust enough to support the top-heaviness of the back end. I think that the middle joint where the 1x5 lift arms are at will have too much flex and will cause problems. I'd try replacing those with some longer lift-arms to increase the number of attachment points. Like I did, maybe try to work in some of the trans-clear 1x15 lift arms to give you the illusion of separation between ship and stand.

I made three GR-75's, two in White and one in LBG. After the first one, I mixed and match colors to my liking so each one is unique. For the spine, LBG, DBG, Reddish Brown, and Black will look fine. (Maybe not black!) DSC01615 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

This is the first I have heard that you have CJD223 working on instructions. I was very excited to see EKae LDD instructions simply because you never gave much of an indications that you were going to get around to releasing your plans. Last I remember, you said that there was issue with the many illegal connections and hinted that you were on to other projects (like spending time with the little tyke!) Anyway. I'm going to go ahead and build EKae's version and will purchase the plans when they come out as I am very conscious about giving credit (and compensation) where it is due. It appears that I may have a jump on building this as I've already placed several parts orders. In usual fashion, I had intended on giving progress reports and upgrade suggestions but will hold off (on posting things) if you would like to keep the genie in the bottle as much as possible until official plans are published. It appears that your hand was prematurely (and unknowing) forced. I hope that this doesn't cause any hard feelings down the road. You have been a tremendous asset to the Lego Star Wars community and I am eternally greatful for all the talented folks out there that allow me to use their creative work. I look forward to more of your outstanding work in the future. By the way, has anybody done a scale TIE striker yet?

Thanks for the link on the hammerhead! I'm tempted to get the complete set for $165.00 as I always go overboard Bricklinking parts. I'm about 2/3 sourced for the CR-90 and have spent about $250.00. I've got an updated Excel spreadsheet parts list that I'm using if anybody is interested. It's 7 pages in "Landscape" format. I've striped out all the pictures created by the LDD BOM and modified part numbers as needed (3069 = 3069b). I've also identified any part that can have two different numbers like the stud jumpers which can be either 3794 or 15573. Shot me a PM with an email address and I'll send it to you. DSC01970 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

I finally dug down to where the six 2476's go. You can see the edge of them just behind that tube assemble that you forgot on the starboard (right) side. I'm going to use LBG ones. I'm not going to wait for instructions. I would not have wanted to build the Neb-B with LDD but I think that this model should be achievable. (Might be famous last words!)

Do you know where the 6x2476 parts go? Do they have to be DBG?

One decision point will be to decide to use New or risk Used white pieces.

Any rare parts? I just checked on the radar dish (#2440) in white and it's fairly available although was last seen on the 10198 Rebel blockade runner.

File successfully downloaded! Thanks again!

Woo-hoo!! I'm in! I think that you should move this to it's own thread so we can discuss building, modifying, parts changes, price etc. Big thanks!

Found the mods over on Brickset. http://bricksetforum.com/discussion/15407/emerald-night-10194-running-gear-improvements#latest

The back pages of the instructions for the Emerald Night have the instructions and parts list for what is needed to add power functions. Somewhere, I made modifications to improve the running gear but do not have time to look for it now.

Dont worry about a bunch of detailed plans. Start with what you have and expand from there. One things you might want to consider up front is street and sidewalk design. Lego road plates, brick-built or or tiles like mine? Make sure that the sidewalks are at least 4 studs wide. The best things that livens up a layout/diorama are lots of people, trees and plants. DSC01936 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Buy a 2nd HE. You can still get one for less the MSRP of the Heavy Haul. Bricklink average price is about $170.0. https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?S=10233-1&ColorID=0 If course you will need to invest in power supply if you intend to operate it which will drive the price up some. As a note, one PF motor will easily pull a double HE. As others have said, a double HE looks great. It is, by far, the train that gets most of the comments at the shows I go to. Here is an old photo of both the HE and the PC. DSC01071 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

olf999: This may not answer your question as I've made a lot of adjustments to my model. DSC01164 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

It's always nice to see new a new steam locomotive MOC. Nice job! Have you thought about using some of the Big Ben custom wheels? I think that some bigger drivers would evoke that "high-stepping" look of the prototype. Also, is it possible to drop the valve gear down some? It's seem a little too high. Overall - great work! I especially enjoyed the lighting and high quality photos.

I'd jump on a 60052 to get you started. It's been routinely on sale on Amazon. Right now it is 30% off at $140.00 in the USA. Hopefully they have a similar discount in England. https://www.amazon.com/LEGO-Trains-Cargo-Train-Building/dp/B00J4S6UYO/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1490661341&sr=1-3&keywords=lego+train+set