ecmo47

What can be said other than WOW! Your ability to crank out one fantastic model after another is mind-boggling. Did I miss an estimated piece count? And where did you find hundreds of DBG minifig arms? Stunning!!!

I was comparing EKae's model with the Mortesv's which is why I asked. On EKae's model there are 8 studs on the top spine where Mortesv's only has 7. Looks like to fix it properly, you would need to shorten the entire fuselage by one stud. Mortesv: 7 stud spine by Scott Roys, on Flickr EKae's: 8 stud spine by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Starting the fuselage but have run into a small issue that has to do with the side airlocks. As noted a few pages back, the side airlocks did not line up with the upper radar pedestal on the original plans. The fix is to move the side airlocks back one stud which isn't hard. The problem is what to do with the resulting 1 stud gap. @EKae: did you move all of the flags back one stud to compensate?

Quick update. Rear engines area done except a few details. Very solid construction! Here is a few builders photos. DSC01978 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01985 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01988 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Looking good ya'll! Can't wait to get back to building and hopefully be near done this weekend.

Had some time this morning to sketch out a simple engine exhaust idea that I have been thinking about to capture the prototype yellow that you see in the movies. Replace the trans-blue 3x3 radar dish (and the two 2x2 round plates) with part #3941 (trans-yellow 2x2 round brick) and part #2654 (trans-yellow boat stud) both are very common and easy to find. Engine detail 3 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Also, in this picture, I've used part #87081 (4x4 round brick, no holes) to replace some of the stacks of 4x4 round plates.

@Lobot: Thanks for getting things back on track. I was in a hurry to post that info before going on a trip so over-looked that important detail. @wmxproductions: Congrats on finding some bargain parts! I'll keep the progress reports going once I get back to building later this week. One part I'd like to get a bunch of is #87081 (4x4 round brick without pin hole in white) to replace a bunch of the 3 plate stacks of 4x4 round plates. @EKae. On you latest color design, did you fix the airlock alignment problem? A few pages back. Mortesv noted that the side airlock tubes were not aligned with the vertical radar dish tower. It looks like you did but its hard to tell from the angle you posted.

Awww.....NUTS!!! I just realized that I have been posting my building updates in the wrong thread! This thread (in my opinion) should be specifically reserved for anything related to Mortesv's model and build once we get the plans. Moderators, if possible, I'd recommend that the last eight posts back to my 4/27/2017 at 7:40 PM post be moved over to EKae's CR-90 reverse engineered thread where they belong. Sorry about the screw-up and resulting confusion.

@EKae: Those pictures are pretty much all of my progress. I've just got the lower and middle engine mounting blocks complete and the middle row of engines. Just started that top sloped engine area when I had a stop and depart on a 4 day trip. I will not get back to building until late next week (4 May) . I like the new coloration although I'm not sold on the tan engines. You must have used the part 6259 (Cylinder Half 2 x 4 x 4) vice the 85941 (Cylinder Half 2 x 4 x 5 with cutout). I thinking about a version with DBG engines although Dark Green would be an interesting possibility.

I found a small mistake in the engine design. On the bottom row, the two outer engines are one plate-width off alignment. Engine mis-alignment by Scott Roys, on Flickr The fix is easy though. Take off the bricks until you get down to this point. (model is flipped upside-down in this picture) DSC01973 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Find two white 1x8 plates and one white 2x4 plate and install them like this: DSC01975 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Re-install removed bricks. Here is picture of the top of the middle row of engines to show how things line up on my model. DSC01976 by Scott Roys, on Flickr LDD plans have been pretty straight forward but I have deviated in a couple ways. 1. If I know that a part is mirrored on the other side, I go ahead and installed it. 2. I assembled all the engines of each row at once. The middle row of engines are easy to install and remove so leave them off until the end. 3. I noticed that Mortesv used white robot arms (#4735) and these plans have LBG ones. White is not hard to find so you might want to order those instead.

Yes, I think so, but I checked the price and they are not significantly cheaper. Both about 80 cents each.

Finally got all my parts in and the building has commenced! Now I get to discover all the parts I managed to overlook or order in the wrong color. First tip: Divide the LDD file into two parts. Engine block and fuselage. Hopefully this will cut down on LDD weirdness where it jumps from one section to another or works sub-assembles that do not connect. The engine mounting block is VERY solid! DSC01972 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

My pleasure! Thanks for sharing your creations.

@Bricksmarlin: do you know how to post photos here? Just post the BBcode from your Galerie into your post. Bricksmarlin TT by Scott Roys, on Flickr When you do, your pictures will look like this:

Hey everybody! Please forgive me for spamming all on Mortesv's threads on various 1/250 scale builds (CR-90, Neb-B and the ESB fleet). I am very likely going to take my fleet to Brickfair, Virginia. I was wondering if there is anybody else interested in bringing their scale builds and combining them into one large Rebel fleet aka The Battle of Scarif. The show dates are Aug 5-6 in Chantilly, VA which is just west of the DC area. I've got a pretty good fleet already with a Neb-B, 3xGR-75's and 16 fighters. I will be shortly adding a hammerhead and at least one CR-90. Please PM me if your interested so we don't clog up these build threads.

Hey everybody! Please forgive me for spamming all on Mortesv's threads on various 1/250 scale builds (CR-90, Neb-B and the ESB fleet). I am very likely going to take my fleet to Brickfair, Virginia. I was wondering if there is anybody else interested in bringing their scale builds and combining them into one large Rebel fleet aka The Battle of Scarif. The show dates are Aug 5-6 in Chantilly, VA which is just west of the DC area. I've got a pretty good fleet already with a Neb-B, 3xGR-75's and 16 fighters. I will be shortly adding a hammerhead and at least one CR-90. Please PM me if your interested so we don't clog up these build threads.

Hey everybody! Please forgive me for spamming all on Mortesv's threads on various 1/250 scale builds (CR-90, Neb-B and the ESB fleet). I am very likely going to take my fleet to Brickfair, Virginia. I was wondering if there is anybody else interested in bringing their scale builds and combining them into one large Rebel fleet aka The Battle of Scarif. The show dates are Aug 5-6 in Chantilly, VA which is just west of the DC area. I've got a pretty good fleet already with a Neb-B, 3xGR-75's and 16 fighters. I will be shortly adding a hammerhead and at least one CR-90. Please PM me if your interested so we don't clog up these build threads. DSC01715 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Huh. You're right. The sides tubes are 2 studs forward of the upper tube that holds the radar antenna. Which one do you think is off? Does the side ones need to go back 2 studs, the upper/lower 2 studs forward or each set move one stud in the appropriate direction?

I'm looking to improve the design of the fins in the midsection as pictured here: CR-90 midsection close-up by Scott Roys, on Flickr This is what I came up with for the area next to the engine block. Bricks colored green for contrast and to note that they are new. fin mode by Scott Roys, on Flickr I'm hoping that this set-up will work for simulating the forward fins. With the ball joint, you should be able to model the wacky angles. fin mode 2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

I think the contrast between the DBG engine area and the white fuselage is a little too sever. I'd turn all the white into Light Blue Grey and add some dark tan details to the engines. Since the Tantive IV was a councilors ship, it stands to reason that it would be shiny white. The Liberator is more of a battle wagon so greys would be it's more natural color (in my opinion!).

I'm still waiting on two overseas orders to arrive. I doubt I'll get much done until early May. I'm heading out next week on a short trip to visit my daughter in Memphis, Tenn. I'll let you know if I see Elvis hanging around!

Whaaaa......I didn't know that the ships could fly from left to right! We welcome your fleet to the ever growing Mortesv's fleet, Fuchs! Nice job!

Where did you find info on that ship? I spotted it on a Youtube clip and wondered what it was.

EKae designed the engines with 5x#3941 inside each engine as shown below. As Mortesv pointed out, these pieces do not add to the build and but do add unnecessary weight. So the bottom line is that, no, you do not need 55 of them. Engine detail 2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr If your having trouble finding 68x#60474 (white 4x4 round plate) looks like you could easily substitute #6222 (White Brick, Round 4 x 4 with 4 Side Pin Holes and Center Axle Hole) for the stacks of 3 as shown in the black circle.

For the record, it took my laptop i7 4510cpu, 8 GB RAM over an hour to create the building instructions.