Andy D

This hits the nail squarely on the head with regards to many Ideas projects. Even though this was just a joke, it does point out something about Ideas projects and those who submit them. Andy D

^^^^^. Lawrence, To me that is a great sharp, in focus photo. The colors seem just right (spot on). I really need to get something done with a photo set-up. My lighting is something I need to address first. My DIY lighting is just not cutting it. I have been looking at some soft boxes on Amazon... I don't want them too big (or too small) but I need something collapsible as I do not have room to leave a "photo studio" set up all the time. I need something easy to set up and take down and store. Also looking at folding tables. Andy D

I have "Bricklinked" a couple of sets. In two cases I wound up paying more for partial sets I "Bricklinked" than I would for the whole set (at that time). For me, now it all depends on price difference. If there is a minor difference (interpret that in your own terms 20%) I will choose the complete set (new or used depending on condition). I BL'ed the Cafe Corner and Green Grocer I think I paid at least $100 each over then current set cost. Short answer... It depends, but now i try to choose complete sets vs Bricklinked sets. Just MHO, YMMV, Andy D

You have chosen some of what I feel are the best of the modern LEGO Technic sets. I know you said you like mainly Construction sets, but the 42039 (24 Hours Race Car) and the 42037 (Formula Off-Roader) have some interesting suspension and building techniques. Congratulations on you new-found, old hobby and many happy hours of building. Andy D

As a learning experience, what I do is to build sets. I take my time, I study each step and each sub assembly to try to figure out why the model is built as it is. As you are trying, Bricklink is a good place to learn names of parts, also by reading posts here you can learn names of parts, and how they are used. There are several good books that help to explain concepts as well. I like Sariel's book for Techinc, http://www.amazon.com/Unofficial-LEGO-Technic-Builders-Guide/dp/1593274343/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452618721&sr=8-1&keywords=Unofficial+technic+builder%27s+guide He does an excellent job of describing what and why. For standard LEGO System bricks I like.. http://www.amazon.com/Unofficial-LEGO-Builders-Guide-Color/dp/1593274416/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1452619009&sr=1-1&keywords=unofficial+lego+builders+guide There are numerous good books, some good Internet sites, but the best way to learn LEGO is by a combination of reading and doing. IHTH, Andy D

Yeah, much better! Andy D

@JonnyYeti -- if you are trying to collect the modulars, I would recommend the Pet Shop. I'm not much of a fan of Star Wars LEGO, and the Ghost Buster's headquarters looks very big, and as you said, costly. I enjoyed building the Pet Shop, I don't think the interiors are that important anyway for just a display piece. IHTH Andy D

I just finished the 42042 Crawler Crane. It has some interesting techniques and a very interesting distribution gearbox and it is only $150 U.S. for all these reasons, I recommend the 42042 as a good learning experience. Andy D

I would say that this is a success! Very nice, I haven't figured out the door and windows yet, but I do like them very much! Thanks for sharing this... Andy D

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I agree, with most LEGO elements it appears that all existing and previous elements are compatible with the new. I appears that LEGO electronics just decides that the existing version is done and that the new doesn't need much (if any compatibility). Too bad the electronics division doesn't appear to be looking at the past the way the other systems do, and it would not be that hard to make things compatible. Just MHO, YMMV Andy D

Big, big bummer. Get well soon Steve. Andy D

I went back and looked at the Subtractor again. This time I decided to look at it as drive inputs and steered inputs (per Sariel's description) then I looked at the outputs as left and right outputs and made a table with different input descriptions and I examined all the conditions and found that the Subtractor functions as I would expect and most importantly I recorded what happened for different conditions. It has been a long time since I examined something this closely from an engineering/scientific perspective. 1. With the drive input selected as forward or reverse and the steering output off, both outputs go forward or reverse. 2. With the drive input selected as forward and the steering input selected as forward, the right output spins forward and the left output is stopped (or in a coast mode). 3. With the drive input selected as forward and the steering input selected as reverse the left output spins forward and the right output is stopped (or coasts). 4. When the drive input is off and the steering input is forward the outputs spin counter to each other one direction. 5. When the drive input is off and the steering input is reverse the outputs spin counter to each other in the the other directions. Upon closer examination, this is what would be expected from a Subtractor. I guess I just needed to examine it as drive and steering inputs and left and right outputs. Making the table and recording the results really helped. I hope all this makes sense. It really made a difference when I looked at it differently and more scientifically. Andy D

Yep, that is correct. I am just trying to make sure that the Subtractor is functioning correctly. I have another MOC that I use a longtitudional Subtractor in, and the transverse Subtractor works slightly different than the longtitudional Subtractor. Andy D

Wonderful! I am looking forward to pictures. Andy D

I have been experimenting with Sariel's Studless Transverse Subtractor from pages 291 and 292 of his book. It went together really easily, very straight forward design. I am using two (2) M motors like in his design. My observations: 1. When I turn on the motor connected to the differential connected to the 6 l axels (the normal output of the Subtractor) I can make the outputs go forward or reverse. 2. When I turn on the other motor the outputs are reverse of each other. 3. When I turn on both motors (both forward or both reverse) only one output is driven. 4. When I turn on both motors and select one forward and the other reverse, the other output is driven. I have changed the motors to account for one motor being stronger tha the other and I get the same results. I just want to make sure that this behavior is normal before I continue. If it is, great! I can use this, if not I want to correct it before I continue. Overall I really like it, it is a compact and useful design! Thanks, Andy D

That rear suspension is just amazing! Someone said it looks like it could be an official set... I think it is more innovative than many solutions I have seen in official sets! Your suspension idea could be very useful in a variety of situations. Note to self: Borrow this idea sometime! Good luck in the contest! Andy D

Finished building my 42042 today. I was right, it took me about 8 hours over 4 build days. Overall a very fun build. I learned/relearned lots of techniques. The gearbox is very interesting, after it was complete I put a motor on it and spent quite a bit of time studying it, I plan to do the same when I disassemble the model. Overall I really enjoyed it. The functions (for the most part) work very well. The boom elevation function and raising an lowering the claw work very smoothly, very nice. The rotation is pretty good, but not quite as smooth as the boom and claw string functions. The track function (mobility) is very rough, kind of klunk, klunk, klunk... I hope this is not typical of tracked models as I have an idea for a tracked MOC. I assume that most of the klunking is just gear backlash. Overall I like the model and I will study it for awhile before I disassemble for parts. Just MHO, YMMV, Andy D

I keep coming back to this thread. I have been thinking and gathering stuff for a photography set-up, but I am so far unhappy with my results. I enjoy the DIY aspect and as such I have gathered a few clamp lights, built some PVC light stands, but my table/backdrop elludes me. So far I have been just using a couple of white foam core boards but they are a PITA to set up and use. Every time I get to this thread I see Jim's set up with the sweeping grey backdrop and table and try to think how I could make something like that work in my area. Well I do not have room to make a dedicated photography area, so it needs to be collapsible. Has anyone used a fabric backdrop (which could be rolled up) and maybe a folding table? I guess what I am trying to figure out is how well I could get a sweep backdrop with fabric on some sort of stand rolled up and then unroll the fabric and lay one end across the table when I want to shoot. Does this sound feisable? Or would I forever be fighting wrinkles? Thoughts appreciated... Andy D

I just discovered This thread last night. I read through it all, very exciting, like a good book you just cannot put down. Grum64, I know you completed this 6 months ago, but the story and completion are just incredible, thank you so much for sharing this journey, it gives so much hope and encouragement to the rest of us! Happy New Year, Andy D

Great scene! I second the trees, they are really nice. Lots of detail in the entire scene. Andy D

Very nice... Inside and out! I really like the grey roof tiles and the red and white awnings. To me it still looks very much like the CC (which is a good thing). Happy New Year! Andy D

Is Studs on Top like.... green Side Up? Happy New Year Andy D

What Grum said... That is a great wish. Happy New Year.... All year long! Andy D

Very nice! A very good business to be added to the Winter Village. Size, colors and design great! Good luck in the contest! Happy New Year! Andy D