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deehtha

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Everything posted by deehtha

  1. deehtha
    Sorry if I'm a bit late, a lot of replies to the topic to read. It looks like there is a 3x7 flat panel in yellow on the Jeep and in whatever blue the buggy is. There might be 2 in black on the McLaren at the doors, I can't tell. It also looks like there is a 3 wide straight micro panel that pairs with the existing micro panels. I see 2 in yellow on the front of the jeep, 2 in blue on the McLaren, and 2 in LBG on the front of the McLaren.
  2. deehtha
    Not sure if this will work, but in one of my Facebook groups, someone had contact TLG customer service about the Osprey. They were told to send an email through Lego.com voicing support for the set. So maybe enough of us can drown out the few people complaining, and get this set released.
  3. deehtha
    I made some progress. Got the side panels done, and changed the brake lights a little. Also started on the shift mechanism. Right now it's too big and blocks the HOG.
  4. deehtha
    Yes, I think it is. I made the mistake of looking at too many entries before I started mine. If it is a problem, I might have enough time to change it. Yes, my scale is way off, but I wanted to have the transmission, and I could not find any way to shrink the wheel base without getting tall. I did manage to shrink the rear axle mounts by one stud: I also have a rear bumper
  5. deehtha
    The Dodge Deora has fascinated me since I saw an original Hot Wheel one in my uncle's collection. My entry is loosely based on the Deora 1 and Deora 2. Current functions: V6 (original had Slant-6, but that was too long) AWD without central diff Front independent suspension Live axle on rear with fake leaf springs to locate the axle 4 speed transmission Planned functions: Opening tonneau cover Opening front "door" Functional steering in cabin and HOG Gear indicator in cabin and HOG shifter Easily removed body I decided to do something different with the transmission. Because my nephew was disappointed in the speed changes of the traditional transmissions, I went with an automatic transmission layout, omitting reverse: Park, Neutral, 1, 2. Underside. Light blue beam is for Park. Rear axle Front axle wheel hub. Front wheel suspension travel. The front wheels are limited in travel to keep the frame from hitting the ground. After I built the front axle, I realized the black pieces made it hard to see details. If I get some time, I will rebuild it in light grey, but I want to finish the car first.
  6. deehtha
    Some more progress. Just not enough. Even with the extra time, I am unable to finish this by the deadline.
  7. deehtha
    Another update. Doors are on. Driver seat is in place. Don't need a passenger seat when wandering a wasteland alone.
  8. deehtha
    I was able to get much of the body work located. The roof and rear deck are finalized. Thanks @Jim for extending the deadline. I might be able to finish this one.
  9. deehtha
    I reworked the motor mounts and transmission to add 2 more L motors. This lengthened the chassis 2 studs. I finished the fake motor mounts on the front and added some gearing to connect a steering wheel to the servo.
  10. deehtha
    Hello. Here is my entry for the Mad Max Contest. My idea is a fast car to get in and out of dangerous areas. Current functions: All wheel drive 4 speed transmission Central and rear differentials lock when in 1st gear Independent suspension Ackerman steering I currently have 2 L motors mounted, but my goal is to use 6. I plan on having a winch on the rear that can double as a defense weapon with a large ball. Side view with body outline: Here is the rolling chassis with 2 wheels off. I still need to make the stepper for the transmission. Front suspension detail: Transmission underside, showing the central differential locker More WIP pictures can be found at http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=579178 once moderated.
  11. deehtha
    if the holes on either side of the 4l axle are empty, try part 15461, or a 3l beam and 2 friction pins, replacing the bush.
  12. deehtha
    Have you thought about reducing the number of 90 degree limiter is the shifter assembly? I was able to keep a pair of similar transmissions synchronized with just 1 90 degree limiter.
  13. deehtha
    Are ground effect vehicles and hovercraft allowed?
  14. deehtha
    Taking the drive for both motors for the fake engine should be unnecessary. If you take just one output to the fake engine, you should be able to simplify that area up. The drag on the one side from the fake engine should be negligible.
  15. deehtha
    As long as the cute bunnies take me to the next unread post in a thread, bunny on. That button seems to have disappeared. I'm using chrome on Android 7. Haven't check my desktop yet Edit: more info, the button is invisible.
  16. deehtha
    Here is a version of @Paul Boratko's 4 speed that I added an automatic lock to the central diff. The differential should lock in 1st gear. Blue is shifter input, yellow is drive input, and red is drive output. The orange wheels are the new orange selector. The yellow 12 tooth gears are the new extension ring. For some reason LDD would not let me mate the old style extension with the differential. It would also only let me use the white gear shifter connectors with ridges on the shifter, I could not use the red ones without ridges. The shifter input can come from either side. 1
  17. deehtha
    I've got 2 ideas for contests. 1: An ultimately playable contest - Start with either a midsize or smaller set, like the Rally Car, and improve it without changing it too much. Like the Porsche and Bugatti mods and improvements threads. Could also start by building a basic 4 or 5 function sub 1000 piece vehicle. That way you don't end up with 5 versions of 8081 with many of @Thirdwigg's mods. The exterior shouldn't change too much, we don't want a pimp-my-ride. I would say a color change would be okay. Someone may want to build both models and display them side by side. 2: A contest with a point limit. Build whatever you want within the point limit. Pieces could be assigned a value based on weight, volume, or price. A basic set of 300 - 400 technic pieces with value would be posted at the start. Once assigned a value, it doesnt change, but moderators could add pieces as they see fit. Since pieces change weight and value based on color, I would not make separate point values by color (a red #3 connector should have the same value as a black #3).I would set the max point value so that most entries would be in the 400 - 600 piece range.
  18. deehtha
    I built this engine. It does run smooth. I connected an M motor with a band and a pulley. The engine itself could use some reinforcement. I had a hard time keeping it square. The crankshaft seems 1/4 m too short.
  19. deehtha
    I like #2. #3 is too broad, maybe if it was restricted to size or part count. Or not allowed to use certain parts (no friction pins would certainly be interesting)
  20. deehtha
    The hub itself feels fairly solid, but, there is nothing keeping the 8 tooth gear from sliding. The control arms are not parallel either, so they cannot be braced closer to the hub end. This hub is also as floppy as the standard Lego hubs, so there is no advantage there. The hub was more of a "see if I can" than anything. It is a lot of complication for hardly any change in the gear reduction, and reducing the width by 1 stud.
  21. deehtha
    After watching @Didumos69 build his Greyhound buggy, I wanted to see if it was possible to build a portal hub based off of his turntable hubs. This is my result. I have built it in real-life. The entire hub is inclined to get the control arm mount points and the drive axle as lined up as possible. This only fits in the large rims with the 6 pin hole pattern. The 107 mm Claas tires, the 94.8 mm truck tires and balloon tires, and the 68.8 x 36 ZR tires all fit. The pink assembly is only for the 94.8 mm truck tires, it stabilizes the wheels. It isn't necessary. The blue assembly is just a mockup to show how it could fit. There is a little bit of king pin inclination. Using the 94.8 mm tires, ground clearance at the bottom of the hub is a little of 4.5 studs. Because the hub sits at an angle, the distance at the towballs is a hair over 5 studs. This hub 1 stud narrower than the Lego portal hub piece. The lxf can be found here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/steater/Ideas/mini_turntable_portal_hub.lxf
  22. deehtha
    That stepper mechanism looks a lot like one I have seen floating around in these forums, only using https://rebrickable.com/parts/90258/brick-special-2-x-2-with-grooves-and-axle-hole/ instead of the 24 tooth gear and bits.
  23. deehtha
    on the rear of the suspension module, there are 2 crossblock, the one on the left is yellow and the one on right is lbg. Could this be similar to 42069, indicating differential orientation is important. Which would mean AWD. In one of the pictures of the transmission, on the side opposite the yellow knob gears, I can barely make out what looks to be a 24 tooth gear. That gear could mesh with the 8 tooth on the drive axle. And the only reason to extend the driveline past that point would be to connect to the front axles. I would say the Chiron is AWD.
  24. deehtha
    This forklift has a more realistic lifting mechanism. On most modern forklifts, the forks are connected to one end of a chain. The other end is secured to the frame or the base of a boom. The hydraulics act on the chain itself, like @Rudivdk pictures. Even if the range isn't the greatest, it is more realistic.
  25. deehtha
    The box for the app enabled batmobile make it look like it only drives forward and backward. But it may have a rechargeable battery. It not listed as needing any batteries. The 2 new trains on the other hand are listed as needing 10 AAA sized batteries. However, none of these carry the Power Functions logo. The older trains do.
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