deehtha

It looks like there are two levers by the winch sticker. Maybe the sticker refers to the lower and upper winches and not raise/lower the winch?

I don't think there is a new piece in there. Just imagine the friction-less 3l pins are part 77765, 3l pin with stop and no ridges.

With the rubber band on one side, your black beam experiences more force on the side. If you can get the force equally exerted on the other side, you should then be able to move in the other direction. Because of the looseness of the pieces, even the smallest forces can cause beams to be slightly angled.

The new parts are probably updated versions of the older rotor pieces, and not true cyclic and collective controls. It is much easier to see the entire rotor pitch in one direction than individual blades, especially when the rotor is spinning.

This is a lockable rear axle I am working on. I need help keeping the beam holding the 12 tooth gear from popping off. I tried the 7 long half axles, but I am not happy with the solution. I could use some suggestions. At @Hrafn suggestion, I am posting this in this thread. Here is the axle installed in my Raptor. Space is very tight at the front. Here is a better shot of the bottom of the axle Here is the top of the axle

I need some help on the this axle. I am having a hard time bracing the black beam on the front side, and there is some bending where the shocks mount to the lbg panel extenders.. The 2 7 long half beams were the best I could come up with, but I am not happy. Any suggestions?

It looks like there might be a 9 or 11 long flip-flop beam in LBG between the sprockets and drive assembly.

Aligning the slits like that might make it easier to insert. I always start my pins at a slight angle, and I have found the old molds to be very stiff to insert.

8461 had printing on the tires.

If you look closely at the little picture in the lower left, it shows the main image flipping over backward, and then driving forward as the truck looking body. Does not look like there is any change in the direction the tracks spin.

I like the springs being hidden from view. Less likely to get caught on nearby pieces. Also less likely to pinch little fingers when compressed. And, should the outer spring get broken, the piece is still functional. TLG is trying to generate new Technic customers. If that means more cosmetic than function, than so be it. But the more Technic sets are bought, the more they will make. There are only so many different construction vehicles you can make. And at their heart, cars are simple.

I'm glad they started using the cam pieces for the fake engines. Much more smoother and less binding.

Those have been available since 51515, but nice to see them used elsewhere, and not as a wheel arch

It is very loose. Feels to me like they made a last minute change to the front axle. While building mine, I felt like it wouldn't take too much effort to slide in a servo or C+ large motor in the space just behind the steering rack.

I don't remember where. An article I came across. Timberline is one of the copyrights Ford has so that may be it. Bronco Raptor also makes its debut in 2023.

With Lego having a Ford license, what about a large scale Ford? The do have the recently re-launched Bronco line as well as a new unnamed rugged small SUV for 2023.

If I'm not mistaken, the model you linked looks like https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-31313/ForelockMocs/42096-alternate-f1-car/#details with different stickers. The instructions are free, and I'm willing to bet MORK did not acquire the rights to them. If you own 42096, you already have the pieces.

20: 10 40: 6 16: 4 23: 3 42: 2 22: 1

21. Prop Plane Original set: 8855 Features: Joystick operated Ailerons and Elevators 4-cylinder engine Discussion topic: Pictures:

I think I am finished. Mounted the second wing, and everything lines up correctly. And my Technician surprised me with a current pilot's license. All the control surfaces from the original work.

Some updates. Closed up the top and bottom of the engine area. Added seats and the controls for ailerons. Mounted one of the wings. Despite the weight of the wing, the support keeps the flex to a minimum. I had a difficult time getting the 8 tooth gears to line up properly. so that the ailerons would droop slightly. In the end, I had to move the red connectors back a stud from where they are on the original.

I have been wanting to make a studless version of one of my first and favorite Technic sets for a while. TC20 is the perfect chance to try my hand at 8858 Prop Plane *This image was taken from Blackbird's Technicopedia* My plan is to replicate the original as close to 1:1 as possible. If I have time, I want to add rudder and flaps control, and 2 control cluster behind the wings. I started with a mockup of the body to get some dimensions As you can see, I made the pontoons more realistic sized and added wing supports. Pontoon details Here is a side picture with the control stick placed and connected to elevators, and prop and engine. I went with a flat 4 instead of the upside single cylinder. Here is a closeup of the front.

While building this, using the new gray/red differential, I noticed the front differential had a lot of slop that caused a bit of resistance, especially when going backwards. To fix this, I put a 12 tooth gear on the front. The 12 tooth gear moves a little bit, but the play in the differential is much reduced. I also came up with a brick built grill that reduces the bug-eyed effect of the stock front end. Unfortunately, I was unable to have just 7 slots with the pieces I have. I also swapped the 2x 5 axles with stop holding the top of the grill for 5.5 axles. The end that protrudes under the panels kept the grill from moving around.

If it helps anyone, Chrome and Edge on windows 10 and Chrome on Android 10 do not work for me. Also, I had some posts in the Technic forum bookmarked, and those are also not working.

How is the input latency compared to the Brickcontroller 2 app? Is there a difference in input latency when using touchscreen controls and a physical controller?