Jump to content

BusterHaus

Eurobricks Counts
  • Posts

    1,364
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BusterHaus

  1. I have the same shelf and it's a really poor design, at least for North American houses. Wall studs are 16" on center and the shelf is 46.85" - just over an inch too short to be anchored into a stud on both ends. I have access to the back of the wall where it hangs, so I added a piece of 2x4 to the stud and anchored the shelf into it. Unfortunately this is not a solution for most people.
  2. This is the fastest street sweeper in the world. Does it run races on the weekends?
  3. @Andy D I'm not an expert on it either, I usually delete stuff until the desired parts are left. You can hide it, too, but I think it reappears when you open up the file again.
  4. You can use one of the LDD models and isolate the elements you need:
  5. @Offroadcreat1ons Just went through that topic, it gave a lot of insight into your process (very nice result, by the way). I think I need to get out a sketch pad and put some ideas on paper before building, or do a beam sketch. I don't really have an image of the body in my head, which slows down the building considerably.
  6. A couple of questions about supercar bodies. From what I can tell there are two types of Lego supercars: scale models of existing or concept vehicles, and fantasy supercars, which come from the mind of the builder. I'm interested in the latter. Question 1: How do you start your design? Sketches? Virtual building? Trial and error building? Question 2: Where do you start the design of the body? Roof line? Hood? Fenders? Doors? Any input would be helpful. I've tried the virtual and real building methods and have yet to complete a project. Edit: I don't have trouble with the chassis, just the body.
  7. @kbalage I like your approach - it's modern CGI vs what the special effects guys did for Star Wars in the 70's. The Photoshop solutions isn't without its challenges, as you need to match the perspective of the background to the foreground, saturation, etc. Sometimes the physical solution seems easier.
  8. Holy cow that's dedication. I like the outcome. The lazy man's way to do it is using Motion Blur in Photoshop. You start with this: Apply motion blur as desired: But then you don't get to have a fun project.
  9. The big difference is the steering - the two examples above have skid steering.
  10. I remember reading that the parts have a tolerance of +/-.001". This is pretty tight for machined parts (especially in plastic) but doesn't sound unreasonable for injection molded parts. Machining plastic has a slew of challenges. Clamping can deform stock material, cutting tools that are not sharp can push the material instead of cutting it, resulting in insufficient material removal, and the internal stress present in the material has to be considered when making long, thin parts like Technic beams. I could see machining being useful for making some parts, but it has its limitations.
  11. It's fun to see the different color schemes emerge. Mine is pretty different as well, I'm planning a police car color scheme with a LBG interior. I'm still completing the chassis, it's a very rewarding build. It's bigger than I expected and very solid.
  12. The offset on the Porsche rims is very different from the closest-sized rim 44772. The wheels stick out like a sore thumb and will probably rub against the body when turned. Their inside diameter also interferes with the brake pads. Edit: I didn't bother buying the Porsche set but I bought its wheels for this build. They are not cheap but are now one of my favorite wheels because of the deep offset. I can see them being very useful on other builds.
  13. @davebarrett Here is a copy of the car with only blue pins. Just save the code as an LDR file.
  14. Very nice choice. Do you have any data from your ripsaw on how long the charge lasts when using 2 buggy motors with a BuWizz?
  15. I'm very happy to see the instructions released. @Blakbird did a tremendous amount of work after taking them over. The process turned out to be much more collaborative that anyone involved expected. @Didumos69 reviewed all the iterations of the instructions to make sure that the car could be built and that the instructions were clear. I ended up contributing stepped submodels to help out @Blakbird - his main focus was the stepping and LPub layout. A couple of things that I learned during this project: @SylvainLS maintains a more up-to-date ldraw.xml file that does a much better job of converting models from LDD to LDR than the one stock one. Submodels should be built aligned with the main grid for a consistent look and rotated on the main model. LDCad can be used in a way that doesn't take that into consideration, but aligning submodels is the more logical way. I'm now a big fan of callouts, even for single parts, as they show you exactly where the part should go on a complicated model. They can often be used instead of buffer exchanges. If you get the chance to build this model please consider making a donation to Technicopedia, we are attempting to double the lifetime donations (4) that it has received so far.
  16. I recommend building this gearbox. It's very fun to play with. Very little friction, smooth shifting and the gear ratios are well displayed through the moving pistons. Edit: Just noticed that this version doesn't have the engine connected, it's pretty easy to do. Edit 2: need more coffee.
  17. This also extends to what parts are available in the LDraw library. Building virtual models with non-Lego parts would involve quite a bit of work and makes sharing of instructions more challenging. A big part of this hobby is learning from what others have done and (hopefully) contributing something new to the community. We are constantly looking for solutions to mechanical puzzles. Sharing those solutions advances our hobby to new levels. Using non-Lego parts is a shortcut to the solution, but the process of solving the puzzle is usually more rewarding.
  18. Hi Hans, your new project looks great. How is the gripper performing in the long run? It's relying on friction to stay together and the cylinders look like they could eventually pull it apart. You can add some bracing to prevent that, but it will make the mechanism a bit more bulky. Here's an example of how this could be done:
  19. This is a whole other level of awesome. Congratulations on a fantastic build. I love that you used Mindstorms to control the train spacing.
  20. The large motors you are using have a lot of torque, much more than the differentials like to handle. If @JJ2's suggestion doesn't completely solve the problem you may want to look at gearing up the motors to reduce the torque and reducing their RPMs to keep the car speed the same.
  21. Congratulations to the winners! The prize should have been to bring you guys together and have the bots fight for the top prize.
×
×
  • Create New...