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BusterHaus

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Everything posted by BusterHaus

  1. BusterHaus
    All regular motors do this. It's due to differences in build, wear and coupling. The only Lego motors that turn at identical speeds are servo motors from Mindstorms because they have a position sensor that sends feedback to the controller.
  2. BusterHaus
    Not sure how I missed this but this is a great truck. The crane is my favorite part, it looks like a lot of fun to control. Nice job on hiding the motor cable on the last jib, too.
  3. BusterHaus
    Some nice clean shapes on this motorcycle. There's a lot of space over the engine, is there a way to fill it up somehow? Maybe a fake gas tank?
  4. BusterHaus
    21:10 18:6 17:4 29:3 14:2 26:1
  5. BusterHaus
    You may want to check your build against the LXF, although it's a bit incomplete.
  6. BusterHaus
    I used an adder in one of my early builds. It used two L motors but would work with any combination of motors.
  7. BusterHaus
    @bmaurice & @MichaelWareman The most significant change was the removal of the 3L pins connecting the leg to the amplitude modulation and replacing them with 4L axles with stop. The leg amplitude modulation mechanism moves away from the leg when it goes up and down and the legs would tilt toward the body, putting stress on the rotating 2L beams. This change may be causing the performance issues I'm seeing. I'll try it with 3L pins to see if I have better luck. Instructions are here: http://instructions.busterhaus.com/hex.pdf
  8. BusterHaus
    I built this again, this time using the model provided by @bmaurice with some changes. It works but has a few issues: Steering gears are prone to skipping, resulting in misaligned sections When completely turned the legs can hit each other on occasion There are some very weak points in this design will eventually lead to sections separating from the main body and not working This being said, it's a blast to play with. The variable-speed remote is much better suited for controlling it, as the walking looks much better when it's not at full power. Here is a video of it using a regular remote:
  9. BusterHaus
    I started one last year. Maybe @Milan or @Jim could merge this thread into it, there's some good content here.
  10. BusterHaus
    Fantastic build, it could probably be an entry in the BattleBot contest. It's incredible how quick it is, too.
  11. BusterHaus
    Thanks for taking over @Blakbird - I really don't mind the help and appreciate you stepping up. Let me know if you need any deciphering the MPD. It has a bunch of WRITE commands that I used to document the instructions and give them some sense. I can help you in any way you think is suitable.
  12. BusterHaus
    Not yet. I will post it when it's ready. Sounds good, as the natives seem to be getting restless.
  13. BusterHaus
    I must apologize, progress on the instructions is slow due to lack of time. Here are my impressions so far: The build is not really modular, but there are quite a few smaller sections that can be built outside of the model. Because the build is not modular, the building is done starting from the inside and going outside, often changing directions. You may work on the front end, then the rear, and back to the front. There is no avoiding this sequencing. The build is much more complex than an official Lego set. There are a few operations that are challenging to show as instructions. Showing the addition of small parts (and submodels) on a large model is easiest done with callouts. Buffer exchanges would also work. Because many pages feature callouts, the model has a LOT of submodels. I try to stick to a naming convention (item_location). Here is the latest LDR file with LPub3D commands. It's very dirty - it has sequencing errors and missing parts. The body is mostly sequenced, but is missing view rotations, callouts and stepping for subassemblies. And here is the latest PDF of the instructions. 380 pages, 256 megabytes. It should give you an idea of how the final product should look like. By the way, if any of you are in a rush and wish to complete this project faster, please let me know. I am enjoying the challenge of making these instructions, but I am not opposed to handing the project over if it means that we get the instructions done sooner. Otherwise please be patient. @Blakbird Many of the black bushes can be substituted by 1L beams, or red bushes if friction is required.
  14. BusterHaus
    Tested out my BuWizz in a real build today. Fantastic performance.
  15. BusterHaus
    Bingo. The center wheel hub that's between the pieces should either have a tire on it or be replaced by a part that makes contact with the plate-with-pinhole parts on the inside of the pentagon. This will prevent the plate-with-pinhole parts from rotating, as well as deformation of the pentagon shape. Very nice design, by the way.
  16. BusterHaus
    Excellent work, the number of functions is astonishing. I like the solution for attaching the rear suspension with the differential - very clever. Do the 8 tooth gears separate at any point?
  17. BusterHaus
    I did a render test:
  18. BusterHaus
    Are the bricks charged? I charged mine for about 2-3 hours each before using them. Your phone needs to have access to the internet. I think this is to download the latest firmware. First connection to the brick will install the firmware - sometimes this process freezes, just keep restarting it if the progress bar is not advancing. Not sure what else to suggest. I'm using a Nexus 6P, Android 7.1.1. Have you tried connecting with any other devices?
  19. BusterHaus
    There's no need to pair it in your operating system if you are using an Android device. Pairing seems to be done inside the app: Let's Race --> Setup --> BuWizz Brick Icon --> Refresh. Select the brick(s) you want to control. The downside is that there is no way to save the profiles (for now), so you need to select the brick and go through your slider and rotation direction setup every time you restart the app.
  20. BusterHaus
    While I support the idea of having embedded models, I don't think Stud.io is a great choice. From their Terms (full version here): I'd rather keep the full rights to the stuff I create and share it as digital files. Edit: For comparison, here's the ownership note from Rebrickable (full terms here):
  21. BusterHaus
    I don't suggest opening it, as it voids the warranty. This is a brand new unit, I would wait for BuWizz to respond, and only open it if you they don't honor the warranty.
  22. BusterHaus
    I did, $20 coming into Canada, due upon delivery. Not bad.
  23. BusterHaus
    Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the rear suspension is far from functional. I will list the issues, the solution is to redesign it: The ball joint can move up and down, which is what you want. It can also move sideways, so you need stabilizer links, just like in the front. Shock #1: the stabilizer links will limit the sideways travel, but it will still exist. Your shock absorbers can rotate sideways, they also need to rotate parallel to the car frame. Many builds use this piece on each end of the shock absorber: Shocks #2: the sideways movement will put stress on one of the shock absorbers. Leave at least 1 stud between the ball joint section and the shock absorber. Shocks #3: as you compress the spring, the black bracket to which the bottom of the shock absorber is attached will want to separate from the frame. It should sit on top of the frame, or be attached on the side. The wheel supports should be beefed up. They are held by a single axle and will flex (and eventually come apart) quite a bit. I suggest downloading the instructions for the 9398 chassis - they show how to build strong pendular suspensions. Yours will be much simpler, but the same principles will still apply. Good luck. EDIT: 42005 will probably show you just as much, and it's much simpler.
  24. BusterHaus
    I like this solution, and it won't add much work to the instructions. Glad the 1L beam is gone.
  25. BusterHaus
    Your choice of motors should move this beauty quite easily, you just need to gear them down a bit. Swap the two current gears (put the large one on the wheel axle), or try a 24 tooth gear on each axle. Very nice photos, by the way.
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