BusterHaus

I noticed that the bricks from my youth have quite a bit of abuse on them. There are occasional bite marks, some snapped parts, others that took damage when a build fell or was dropped. However, most of the damage was done by constant searching for parts in a large bin the mixing and tumbling has put a lot of scratches on the parts. This is really visible on transparent pieces, but regular bricks suffered the same fate. I never noticed this as a kid, and it didn't change the amount of fun that the bricks provided. These days I'm more careful with my collection. I keep pieces separated in smaller bins to reduce the amount of damage caused by searching. At the same time, I don't display any models on a shelf, so pristine bricks are not a priority. I don't mind the occasional scratch or damaged part that was caused by my actions. My bigger concern is the durability of certain parts when they are assembled for a longer period of time. Some of them crack, which is never a pleasant discovery. I find it best to keep in mind that bricks have finite lifespan. They will meet their end for various reasons, sometimes sooner than expected. Most of the damaged parts are easy to replace. Using rare parts is up to the builder - each one of us will value parts differently. Some will prefer the joy of using a rare part, while others will be happy with collecting rare parts and preserving them in the best condition possible. Ultimately each of us will decide what takes priority.

I'm not an expert on bikes but this one looks great and I'm very impressed that you managed to fit the 4 speed transmission in it. Keep up the good work!

This sums up this MOC perfectly. It's simply a pleasure to admire, with the different elements blending into each other to form the exotic lines. There individual panels disappear and become beautiful shapes that represent the real car faithfully. Technic building at the next level.

Fascinating concept and device. Will you be hooking up a motor to it and recording a long sequence? How reliable is the mechanism?

The easiest way to speed up cars is to switch the power source from a Lego battery box to a BuWizz. It has a higher voltage, which results in higher RPM for the same motors. The support up to now hasn't been great for this product, but @Zerobricks has recently been hired by BuWizz to help in this area, so I'm hoping things improve.

A link would be useful: https://www.cailliau.org/Alphabetical/L/Lego/ Thanks for bringing this up, I didn't know it existed.

It looks unstoppable! I like that it's still fast with the 4:1 reduction.

Excellent C-model, it could be a B-model. The functions are abundant and work great, and your solution for the suspension is awesome.

A week ago is I started disassembling all my half (or less) finished builds. I came to the conclusion that it's better to focus on a single project than 8 different ones simultaneously. Now I just need to pick one and run with it... Anyone else run into the same problem? As a side note, some of the builds had been assembled for almost a year and had quite a few cracked parts when I took them apart. I don't remember bricks cracking this easily when I was a kid. Sigh. These are the worst offenders: https://www.flickr.com/photos/151519486@N07/shares/61b061

Nice progress on the body, although the nose looks to be too long. Maybe shorten it by a stud?

I'm not sure why a mechanical solution is required here, despite the fact that it works. You can physically align two independent motors before starting the program and shift phases as necessary inside the program. You can also track the position of each motor and synchronize them again to walk in a straight line. The use of a torsion bar seems redundant - I'd like to know more details, I have the feeling that I'm missing something obvious...

@Hrafn Nice work! Are you planning to build in some locks to keep in place l the selectors driven by knob gears?

The quick and dirty way to do it is a 24-12 gear combination on the output of a 90 degree shifter. I haven't built it yet, so I don't know if it will actually work flawlessly, as the slack between the 24-12 gears may affect shifting performance.

@Stefaneris From what I can see in the pictures, the 15L LBG beams look to be unsupported close to the string attach point. You could make your structure much stronger by using a few beams to create triangles. You can use any combination of the ones below:

@Edwin Korstanje Are you making models full time now?

This test was made to determine the angle at which part 35188 disengages the gear. Result: approximately 45 degrees in each direction.

I built a small device to test this, the angle I found was roughly 45 degrees. I'll take a video of it tonight. A couple of days ago I also built the 3 rings in a triangle proof-of-concept. You can use it to make a 3 speed transmission, but @Didumos69 is right - you have two rings engaged during shifts if you add 3 more clutch gears. Edit: Here is the 3 speed POC that I built: Notes: Needs a 120 degree stepper A lot of bracing is required to make this resistant to torque, size increases considerably In my opinion this design isn't very useful, as you can make a 4 speed transmission in a smaller space and get one extra gear.

@1963maniac Make sure you use the latest ldraw.xml file for converting the LDD files, it solves a lot of headaches. https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/137193-more-up-to-date-ldrawxml-lddldraw-conversion-file/

Nice work, I like the outrigger system. It looks smaller than the dedicated parts we have now.

I'm glad to see this one being built! You are right about the safety issues... My dad went to one about 40 years ago with some friends. The ride reached its top speed, and the floor was removed, so they were spinning in a cylinder. One of his friends started screaming in panic, as he slowly started sliding down. He ended up holding on to something until the end of the ride, but had quite a scare.

What a great project! Everything about it is well executed: functions, looks, instructions, packaging, video and pictures. I can imagine the amount of time it took. Congratulations, you should be quite proud of this achievement.

Like many others, I'm also looking forward to this one. It came out during my dark ages, and was off the store shelves by the time I started buying sets again. I like its look, it will be good to see the insides in pictures instead of grainy instructions.

Wow, I missed this post until today. Very nice work,especially on the gear ratios. They have a nice progression to them. One thing that I've been wondering about since the Hammerhead shifter is the durability of the silicon bands. Do they keep the same elasticity for a long time? I really like @Paul Boratko's solution with a shock absorber, and I've also built shifters with torsion axle locks, so I wonder how they compare.

This should solve your issue: https://forums.ldraw.org/thread-20962-post-23352.html#pid23352 @Sariel Nice work, you could link the input gears by a small chain as well, although the second selector would turn in the opposite direction.

@Jack Bloomer TLG has a lot of different (often competing) targets to reach when designing a set, including minimal part count and durability. Half stud offsets do not stress parts, so they are most likely legal, but they increase complexity and part count. AFOLS are not subject to the same targets, so we are free to build in ways that will never be used by TLG. That being said, a portion of us stick to not stressing parts and only having legal connection, or avoiding illegal ones as much as possible possible. @Didumos69 designs his stuff this way, so I wouldn't worry about half stud offsets in his hands.