1963maniac

LDD does not respond to the order it is built. I just tried it. The order can be changed and controlled in Ldraw. I use MLCAD. the line of code for for a part can easily be dragged and dropped into any order necessary. To get the file from lxf to ldr I use Stud.io from bricklink. Import the file as Ldd and export it as Ldr, of course save a copy. I have made building instructions many times in this way. At the end I just use LPUB3D to create the pages. Also, I use Stud.io for rendering. It's relatively easy and does a great job.

Sorry about this question but, sometimes frustration overtakes common sense. Have you checked that the channels are set the same on the remote and IR receiver?

LEGO Is Plastic! When it's all said and done it's still plastic! A lot of good comes out of digital building. BUT, it will still be made in plastic!

I just checked bricklink. Those brackets in America are $8.75 each. That $17.50 plus shipping for just one pair! Whew! Alternative builds are what I need help with.

Tommy Styrvoky had this idea that works too, www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/156965-idea-link-two-v2-pneumatic-actuators-end-to-end/ His solution is 1L shorter, too. There is no problem with tube connection. OK, how about showing some connections for the 5th one down on CollettArrow's picture above? Some help please?

I've been where you are, not having the assets to build with plastic. It's very frustrating! I wished for a long time for the software to do it digitally. But, I also know that when you build with Technic Legos, you can put parts together digitally, but it does not always work well in plastic. I have often gone back to the drawing board to re-do a MOC. When building with plastic long enough, a better understanding is gained from the effort. Blakbird always makes sure his building instructions actually work in plastic before he releases them. All great Moc builders do that. That's the reason real plastic MOCs are more dominant.

YYYYYes! I figured somebody would remember these. That's what I'm looking for! Thank you sooo muuuch!!!

I am looking for information on the motors that can attach to the hulls of sets like 4005, 4010, 4011, 4012, 4015, 4020, 4021, 4022, 4025, 4030, 4031 etc. These sets were available from 1982- 1996.

Did you get your ski lift finished? Wondering how you are doing?

You can do this in Stud.io. I was able to do this in MLCAD and open it in "Stud.io". I don't think it a Stud.io file can be opened in LDD. Just checked, it definitely cannot open saved Stud.io files.

Andreas, That'a very unique looking vehicle!! But, How do you make those wheels?

I don't know what a Sherp ATV is, but this MOC Looks great! Awesome work!! I'm looking forward to seeing more of your work in the future.

About the gearing down, Put a small gear on the motor and a larger gear to turn your bullwheels. Check Sariel's book about gearing down. Post some pics of your drive mechanism so we can help with it further. Check this out... http://curvetube.com/LEGO_Technic_detachable_gondola-Final_version_by_PG52_[HD]/9xm2VeHWkKQ.video PG52 is a great designer!

MLCAD Sub-modelling & LPUB Call-outs This information is for making sub-models in a file that is already assembled. Start by opening MLCAD and the mode file. 1.Click on the “multi-part” tab, then select “New Model” from the drop-down menu. Name your sub-model using both text boxes. 2.Switch to main model. Click on the tab to the right of "Active Model" selecting the main model. Find and highlight the parts to be sub-modeled. Click on the “Edit” tab, then “cut”. 3.Switch to sub-model. It will appear as an almost blank screen. At the top, click on the bottom line of code in the Project parts list, click “Edit” tab, then click “Paste”. Your ”cut” parts will reappear here. 4.You can now arrange the parts in order, add “steps”, “rotations” and etc. Check it in the “ view mode“ to confirm building steps are correct 5. Now, switch back to the main model. The sub-model has to go back into the main model. 6. Click on “Document” in the parts tree. Drag the text of the sub-model into the appropriate place in the Project parts list. Keeping the sub-model highlighted move it to it’s correct location in the “parts preview pane”. 7. Check "view mode" again to verify the building steps are correct. This LPUB Guide is for publishing the building instructions: www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/83642-guide-creating-building-instructions-using-lpub/ Section 4.2 covers “call-outs” aka “sub-models”.

I wonder if this part could be substituted (bricklink 2850)? I've seen this used to carry balls in other GBCs. They turn them upside down & the balls sit on them very nicely.

legolijntje Is right. You may have to spend some time learning the basics of MLCAD or similar. I very recently found that "Stud.io" from Bricklink converts LDD files to Ldraw or vice versa. It also very easily renders wonderfully easy (at least with my PC). LPUB or LPUB3D is great for making the instructions from an LDRAW file.

My Technic collection has grown enormously over the last Decade. I too use Plano cases. You can see into them easily. When I need more storage I buy more cases They have been around and will be around for a long time. I use the 3700 size. there are quite a few different styles which makes them versatile. I got a wire stacking unit that is sold on ebay called "Organized Fishing", also comes in several styles. These two items help keep my collection in a compact space, leaving more room at my table for builidng and designing. I now have 20-24 of the cases. I organize by type mainly then color. Color mainly only matters for beams, liftarms, and panels. My cases are organized by axles, beams, liftarms, gears, steering, pneumatic, electric, panels, connectors, pins, 1/2 beams, crossblocks, and Miscellaneous. I'm able to find or put back my parts easily and quickly. I really hate to spend too much time doing this. My philosophy is get and keep things organized and you'll use less time.

Hey Mike, Sorry it took so long. Here is the link: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8705/1963maniac/mod-of-spirograph-v9-by-pg52/#comments for the BWE gear modification.

You are "right on" Erik!! Big time!! If you're gonna build something with LEGO as your medium, then use LEGO completely (and your brain) and your wallet if necessary. Therefore, any LEGO contest should be a LEGO contest! This and many other webpages are LEGO based and should be about LEGO and nothing else. If LEGO is our hobby, then let's use LEGO!! However after reading a lot of this, I do not want to swash creativity with criticism. The creative ideas must keep coming!! Let's not stop it by criticism. And besides, there are often ways to "build a better mousetrap" as they say.

That's a brilliant idea on the dual arms. I'm gonna try that on my V9 PG52 Spirograph.

PG52, Thanks for the explanation, that is what I suspected. The number of petals is affected, which is what it seemed like it was doing. I call them petals too. I've done some modifications. I also have made an extra turntable using BWE gears and replaceable gears for under the arms: 28t, 36t, 56t turntable, 60t turntable. When using the BWE turntable, replacing the blue axlepins with the new black 3L axlepins is required. Also, I changed some pins on my model to make that replacement easier. I didn't change anything on the building instructions. I tried to keep everything the way it was. I only changed the order of parts and added steps, rotation steps, and submodel steps. This project was only my fifth attempt at building instructions. I did learn more about it through this work. I've made some interesting graphs. One of them had 19 petals. That seemed like an unusual number. I don't know how you get to 19 with this math. Your explanation helped my understanding. Thank you!

PG52, I was wondering what the two shifters closest to the paper do? The middle one changes the rotation speed of the paper. The other two change the rotation speed of the arms.

Thanks for the work creating this file and sharing it. One of these days I'm gonna try to make a studless version of 8880.

Here it is folks: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7530/1963maniac/adjustable-spirograph-v9-by-pg52/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=newmoc#bi . I have modified mine with Bucket Wheel Excavator gears with 140 teeth, part 24121 to move the tablet and 60 tooth turntable gears 18938 &18939 to move the arms. These three gears being powered by 12 tooth gears. This definitely produces smoother lines. I'm still trying many of the possibilities. Enjoy it!

Thanks Blakbird, I copied the files onto a thumbdrive and uploaded to Bricksafe from an old laptop. I don't understand why it worked that way. I used chrome both times. I was able to upload to Rebrickable just fine from my new PC. Anyway be watching Rebrickable for this MOC. It should come through soon.