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1963maniac

Eurobricks Ladies
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Everything posted by 1963maniac

  1. Didumos I just uploaded the revised BI for the Sequential 8 speed Transmission Tunnel with Rotary catches and 8 - 1 Gearblock. Unfortumately those rotary catches still aren't showing in the PLI and the BOM. Last night I rediscovered (in a round about way) the Chassis for the Rugged Supercar. I had been wanting to build something with a shifter like Crowkillers "Outlaw". I had come across Charbel's 1:8 modular supercar chassis which led to a search for Didumos stepper and ultimately to Diederik Van Leeuwen before Rugged Supercar Chassis. I am building it right now. But first I'll give you a challenge. Make a modification of a 2X4 sequential gearbox for it, keeping the same style shifter.
  2. Didumos69, Thanks for the photo. That was needed. Here is the finished file: https://bricksafe.com/files/1963maniac/Didumos69 Sequential 8-speed Transmission Tunnel with 8 to 1 GearblockLPUB.pdf I also (finally) figured out how to change the information at the bottom of each page. It should be good now. Didumos69, The file has changed. It now has correctly drawn rubber bands. The pictures (rendered in Stud.io) do not correctly render them. I'd be happy to change it, if you supply a picture. Also, you might want to change it anywhere else you posted it. I re-worked the building instructions. I built it again and decided to make the BI better.
  3. Didumos69 that was an impressive idea and it is even a more impressive result. It works very well and being long and narrow, it ought to be easier to incorporate it into a vehicle. WELL DONE!!
  4. Didumos69, I was wondering what the gear ratios were for the Sequential 8-speed transmission tunnel? I'm just about done working on building instructions for that one.
  5. Thanks for the tip. I use Stud.io to convert LDD to LDRAW and haven't had any headaches yet.
  6. Didumos69, There may be a mistake in your LDD file for Centered HD 4 speed AWD.. The red 16t clutch gears have a space between them and the transmission driving rings.
  7. I've been admiring this Attika "Tribute 8880" for a long time. Wanting to build it. But just not able. This LDD file is the icing on the cake!! Thank you Void_S! I will be making building instructions. This has been on my to do list for a while now. I have started to work on it. Void_s did a great job putting together this digital file! I hope I can figure out how Attika did it. Maybe, he will help me with it. There is much in the chassis that is not visible from the pictures.
  8. Didumos69, Thank you so much for the LDD files. Is this "Tunnel" the same as your previous "short" version? Yes, your explanation makes sense, I got that, but I need to see it too. Yesterday, I was thinking about, for example how Blakbird on "Technicopedia" colors all the gears involved for speed 1 & then colors speed 2 a different color & speed 3,etc. Sariel does it in his book too. But on these wonderful sequential transmissions I want to learn how it goes when changing from one speed to the next. I'm a visual and tactile learner. I need to see it and get it into my hands. Using your LDD files helps with that. I would guess most most AFOLs learn like me. Anyways, Thank you for all the pictures and 3D files in this thread. I open them in Stud.io, then export them as LDRAW and work on them in MLCAD, then LPUB3D, Crazy, huh!? I did the 4 speed centered and was working on the tunnel but I will start again on this version and these other three. I'm trying to become proficient at making Building Instructions.
  9. Hey Didumos, That looks great! Do you have any LDD files yet. I ordered again from Lego for more of these parts. I'm learning a lot. I still have a hard time following the active gears in a given speed. After the 3rd or 4th gear pair it starts to get confusing, especially when everything is spinning. I guess if I build enough of these things it will start to sink in. Can't find a tutorial that speaks about gear train or is it drive train or maybe both are correct. BTW i've been working on making BI for these gearboxes of yours. About the time I was getting done with one, You had to go and make a better version (2L shorter). Just kidding! I enjoy the process.
  10. Are the gear ratios of the short version the same as the original LEGO Technic - Sequential 8-speed transmission tunnel with rotary catches II ?
  11. Philo, I'm making BI with LPUB3D. I'm using 35185,35186 and they are working fine. 35188 appears on the page but not in the PLI or BOM. I don't know what to do.
  12. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Philo!!! They have been used!
  13. Here is the link to the Rebrickable post: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-15662/1963maniac/24-leg-studless-strandbeest/#mocs Watch Rebrickable for the 12 leg and 16 leg versions.
  14. Double VIP points I believe is for online orders. Check the LEGO online store.
  15. I made my own 20t gears w/ clutch. I also made a 24t gear with clutch. Just wanted to try some things with it. Both gears have the older style clutch. These gears work great with either 2L or 3L driving rings and either driving ring extension. BTW, I now have the new parts.
  16. Yes, I use a 3/4 x1 1/2 inch. You can use them to trim when done cutting. I've rearranged all my switches. I've even made my own double crossover. Works great, looks good and is MUCH cheaper.
  17. Thanks for building and posting this. This is a real beauty!! Pretty small too!! Any information on gear ratios? Does it have reverse? Where do the o-rings go? I plan on building this next.
  18. I don't like red 2L axles at all. They are too visible in my MOCs. And for the same reason I don't like blue long pins. In all my MOCs I use black for both because I have enough old stock of black. All red 2L axles and blue long pins are still in unopened baggies. As for blue axlepins with friction, I just have to put up with that. I don't like them either.
  19. jb70, I was wondering where the yellow extention ring goes? Is there a reverse gear in there? I have not seen the instructions from TLG, so I was wondering is it somewhere else in the model?
  20. Why not use a lighter springed shock absorber and anchor the ends closer together?
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