Lasse D

Update The model is finished. See the messages below for how it was developed! Building instructions: I have not seen any entries or WIP threads for the Legoland Miniland Billund car Moc competition yet, so here is one. I want to build a 2014 Seat Leon SC 3 door since it's currently the prettiest non-racing Seat in my oppinion. I will use this WIP thread to share the building process and hopefully inspire others to enter this contest because it shouldn't be too hard to make something even better :) Now. First step is to gather intel. I have gathered some pictures from the net, including this: As well as some basic dimensions: Length: 4228mm Width: 1810mm Height: 1446mm Wheelbase: 2601mm The contest rules state that the size has to be 1:20, and with Lego bricks having a width of 8mm, you get the length of the model: 4228 / 20 / 8 = 26.425 studs. Similarly, the other dimensions are computed: Length: 26.4 studs Width: 11.3 studs Height: 7.5 bricks Wheelbase: 16.3 studs I can now put this picture into Griddy and set the correct length: Using Griddy I can re-check the dimensions: Dimensions using Griddy: Height: 7.63 bricks Wheelbase: 17.5 studs Something is off. While the height is within acceptable parameters, the wheelbase is off. Have I been given the wrong intel? Nope. A double check in the PDF hidden in the far reaches of the Seat website (why do sales sides always have to be horrible for gearheads to get information from?) shows that they are correct. The image must be wrong. It is a rendering after all, so I went out and found this: Using Griddy I could this time verify the other dimensions: Height: 7.42 bricks Wheelbase: 16.89 studs - becomes 16.5. This time the wheelbase is (almost) correct, so I went along and got some more stats: Height: 7.42 bricks Wheelbase: 16.89 studs - becomes 16.5. Wheel diameter: 4.14 studs - becomes 4 stud standard wheels with stick-on rims. Wheel well diameter: 4.84 studs Wheel well height: 2.59 bricks This is enough to get started. All I need are 4 wheels of the right size and some technic bricks. I will keep this thread updated as the build progresses.

I will just... walk around Legoland...

Oh. I see now that I signed up in the wrong topic. Too bad. I will come by Legoland and say hi when you are there. I other words. I would like so sign up for the event as one of the persons who is too late and can thus not participate in the real fun parts.

What super power would I have? Cold War Russia. (Credit goes to Chris Turner, IIRC)

My trucks don't exist anymore, so I can't make new pictures or instructions of them. I simply had a nostalgia trip because of this topic. The only pictures I have of them are in these two galleries: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=509179 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=265785

This is completely awesome! I did the same trick with my Highway Rig back in 2003! The pictures are from 2007 where I had removed the characteristic blue and red stripes and replaced them with eagles. Underneath it all it is the same good old truck from 1990. I didn't mod the front as much as you and your sister, but I added a trailer: When you opened the panel in the side the room inside was larger than one would think: Why? Because the side slides out just like in your model! QUICK EDIT I just remembered that I did the same mod with dual front wheels on an even earlier version. I liked this so much that I made a black version of the truck: Yay for nostalgia :)

It's nice to see the final model. It turned out really nice and I'm surprised at how well the L-motor handles a truck of this size - it is really clear that a light technic construction like yours is the way to go for good functionality.

It took some time, but the instructions are now finally as I want them on the website: (click the image for instructions) I have made a lot of small changes to make the construction even more robust, as well as changed the color of some parts for more accessible versions. Please tell me if there should be any parts which are not easy to follow. Oh, and would you guys be interested in seeing a MAN version of normal tractor trailers of the type of my Scania trucks?

Thanks. As far as I know most of the red parts are available in blue, so you can simply build it in that color.

Thank you. I have actually just completed the step images last night, so now I just have to make some additional assisting images as well as an additional video... oh, and make the 3D rendering in the browser work! Here is a link to the (preliminary) instructions: http://c-mt.dk/instructions/ Or you can just click this image: It should be perfectly possible to build the model after these pictures, so if anyone is up for the challenge then I would love to get some feedback - are there any difficult-to-follow steps, etc.

I did it! 9 and a half hour in and this is the result. Now I have to create pictures of wiring, step images, information, etc... some other day.

6 hours in and I am now building more to the cabin. If I'm lucky it might take less than 10 hours to build the truck! Update 7 Hours in and I'm done with the cabin. Update 2 And after 8 hours I will again call it a day. It's Tuesday! And I'm adding another hour: Am I going to make it in 10 hours!? Let's find out!

So you have it in scale 1:13!? Awesome! I got a single hour smuggled in this evening and added the last motor. Brickshelf appears to be down, so I have to improvise!

That's a great collection of Model Team vehicles. I'm looking forward to see the tow truck together with the rest of them.

It must be getting late. I don't recall using jumpers for the seats at all! :-D The seats are modelled after the ones I have photo referenced, and I have tried a new way to add the headrests using 1x2 plates with clips in order to make them appear fat and plushy. This is the current progress after 4 hours where I have started adding the mechanism for the tumbler. And that will be all for today. I hope there will be a couple of hours free tomorrow morning as well.

Another hour has passed and I have moved my focus to the cabin. It took a full hour just to make this:

Thanks. It took ages to figure out which parts to use in order to minimize sway, but these seemed to do the job best without adding too much friction for the servo motor to struggle against. Here is the result after two hours. I'm still working on the frame. You can see how the L-motor connects to the switch in order to make that third function work.

Yeah, the receiver works really when when the batteries are charged, but the reception deteriorates considerably when they are at half charge or lower. I have started constructing the model in MLCad and will take a screenshot every hour. Here is the result of 1 hour of work. You can clearly see how the steering works here. The Servo motor turns the gray "liftarm 2 with crossaxle hole" to pulle the "liftarm 7" so that the steering racks move: The front moves a little more than the rear one.

The problem with these blades is rather the weight and small surface area. While Sariel is right that these look more like real wings, the resulting lift you get from putting them onto a LEGO motor is diminishing compared to the power you get from the wings of the Education set - these were actually developed for experiments of this nature.

The best 100% LEGO wings you can use for lift are those found in this Education set: http://education.lego.com/en-us/lego-education-product-database/machines-and-mechanisms/9688-renewable-energy-add-on-set Having 4 propellers running from a single M-motor will not create anywhere near enough lift, but it is a nice way to show how to connect the mechanism should one want to use a single motor for such an application. It is a shame that he claims that it flies.

That is quite amazing - especially since that is a 405rpm motor. Which kind of blades did you use and which kind of strings are holding the model up?

Thanks everyone. I have looked into the various parts of this build and I estimate there being 1500 to 2000 bricks. It will take me roughly 2 weeks to make building instructions for it, so it should be doable. It took me so long to construct the truck that I actually had an early version of the frame with me to the Eurobricks event in the beginning of this year!

I has new been more than two years since I posted the first Model Team MAN TGS Cement Truck. Back then it was a GBC module where the function only works when put into a GBC circuit as shown in . Now the barrel has a normal function as one would expect a toy to have.Here is how this new model works: The Power Functions receiver is on the side. You can see how I have no problem controlling it in the video, so the reception is good. It is also easy to change channels and batteries. You fill the barrel by making it rotate toward the cabin and insert stuff from the top of the funnel. The ladder on the side extends to gain access to the funnel and you can turn and extend the slide in the back. The extenders for the slide are located on top of the rear wheels just like on a real cement truck. This time I have focused on making the model sturdy. You can see how the steps under the front doors are relatively strong and how the fuel tank is built fron Technic elements. The fuel tank actually looks more realistic on this model than the old one because of the rounded corners. The doors open like on most of my Model Team models. The frame is a 100% modern liftarm construction, which makes it lightweight and less rigid. This is great for traction when wheels have no moving suspension. Normal differentials are used. I have sandwiched the drive mechanism between 5x7 frames as this allows for a very robust construction and the axles are held using 5.5L crossaxles which makes them stay in place. The drive motor (Power Functions L motor) is connected to a switch which engages the M-motor turning the barrel. This way you can control the barrel independently from the driving function. Inside the cabin there is the normal interior with a dahsboard, steering wheel and seats. Are you still with me? Then let's see how it compares to the old model! In the front you can see how much the "MAN" letters do for the overall looks. The steps are more realistic on the old model, but they were so fragile that I had to fix them every time I moved the damn model. In order not to repeat any former mistakes I designed the new truck without looking at the old one, so it's interesting to see how many detail that are similar. The doors are now more flush to the cabin, the door handles can be used to open the doors and the front doesn't have odd bumps and grooves which the old one needed in order to support the GBC functionality. Moving on to the back you can see how I located the receiver in the old model. The problem with this location was that it required extension wires and didn't allow for as strong a construction as seen in the new model. The old model had the single advantage of having PF-lights in the back, but it resulted in a very messy cabel nightmare inside the frame (as can be seen with the stack of connectors on the let side as seen in the next picture). Here is a good comparison of the two barrel designs. The old design was drawn by hand where I traced lines and tried to guess how thick they should be. The new design is 100% computer designed. Refer to page 9 of my WIP thread if you want to see how I designed the new barrel. Underneath the old model you can see where old style Technic construction meets the new style liftarm construction. There was only 2 wheel drive, so the rear axle had to be suspended in order not to loose too much traction. I couldn't fit a differential in there either. The steering mechanism was located very low in order to make room for the GBC functionality. My Model Team gallery on Brickshelf.

Thanks. So that is what the rotation model is for!? I made a small Java program to construct the model, but if I knew there was an easier way, I would have used it! :-D Edit I have built the real model now. This is what it looks like on top of the truck:

Yeah. He does a lot of advertising for it on reddit. Using jumpers is a nice way to improve a rounded object with small details and it really works well on that one you show there. As for the cement truck I have done the following today. First I tucked the ends in a little, giving it more defined slopes: I cut out a quarter so that it could be used for the drum: Putting four such quarters together and you get: The only place where you could add jumpers would be in the front, but that would weaken the construction for little gain.