Balrog

I wish I had this bike, because of the excellent looks. Your photographs are very good. This might be stupid, but why don't you mount the wheel just the other way around? Then the profile goes in the correct direction.

Matt, your cat seems to not give a single f***. I would have thought it tries to climb the tower

Nice idea, but (and this is a tremendously huge BUT) I personally would never, never never, never ever let my Lego go anywhere near cat poo. Or poo in general.

I would say, that 20-30 minutes of continouos play-time is pretty good for a lipo battery like that. And it goes pretty fast as it seems. Comparing this to my 1:10 RC car, which has a decent motor added and ball bearings on all major moving axles AND a 3500mAH battery, I would say, play time is pretty similar.

Such a u-joint would be very good for my MB Trac.

951 probaby.

I think it performs very well. But, you can see in the model how SUVs are not really made for going hard offroad. Just like the real vehicles :)

The jeep looks really good. Photos of the rebuild for instructions are fine :D Might as well go on my list and I'd try to make a non remote version :D

I am from germany and I am talking about new and sealed boxes.

That might be a good question for Lego Historian!

I would guess, getting 8070 for ~70€ and getting 9395 for 50€ were pretty good deals. Even 8110 for 130€ was a good deal in my opinion.

I usually have only the most recent sets assembled. In my current case: 9395. But I will soon disassemble that as well to build the B-model. And soon after that it will be disassembled and sorted into the rest of my collection.

I hoped this to be funny enough, but still serious enough, to make him explain what this thread is about.

Your thread, no sense it makes. -Yoda-

Wow, your hotrod seems to be pretty fast until now.

aqaz you are partly right, as is Blakbird. There are a lot of different people and not everyone treats their hobby in the same way. I guess I am a good example for this case. Currently, I am still in the learning phase with Technic. I just got back into it last year (with being back into Lego for quite some time now). I started right away with the Unimog. Though, I soon realized, that building my own stuff (like when I was a kid) is harder than I imagined. As time went by, I got some more sets and also got into custom instructions. So after finding a decent model with instructions, I also got into Bricklink. After getting my 8070, I decided soon to build my own supercar. If you lookup the thread, you will see, that I failed. I realized, that I must build more, learn new methods and techniques before I can really build a cool car myself. But how should I learn? I guess learning from those who already made great models is the best way, thus using custom instructions (if available) is a good idea. Reverse engineering might work, too, but only if you have a digital model. Only a few builders are good at reverse engineering from pictures. Also, reverse engineering (or engineering in general) is very time intensive. I am an adult with a job and some free-time activities that have high priority. So I need to use my Lego time as good as I can. So right now, I still have a long way in front of me. The last thing I build from instructions was the MB Trac of arthra08. Though, I modified it myself, motorized the functions, included an automatic pneumatic pump. I am proud. Also I am not finished there. I built some attachments (some good, others meh), developped them myself, which can be considered successful MOCs. And after that I want to build some other models, of which I obtained instructions and already got some supplemental parts. Still I have the challenge to bypass some parts I still miss, building some things differently and finding my own way or even change some parts completely to my liking. So in my opinion, you shouldn't talk so bad about custom instructions (free or sold). But that is my opinion and I guess it is always good to look at the other side of the coin. In the end, this is again one of the topics that are not even black or white, but also there are a lot of grey shades inbetween.

Imho, the original hoses don't go that well on these connectors.

DLuders, you beat me there. The german ebay link is for exactly the articles from the shop I purchased from. More precisely here: http://stores.ebay.de/toymanix/Lego-Schlauch-/_i.html?_fsub=2503299013&_sid=745108023&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

haha ... good old Siemens :D

I purchased some 3rd party pneumatic hoses from ebay. And I must say, that they are much better in regards of attaching them to the in/outlets of pneumatic devices. So far, I didn't even have problems with them popping off due to high pressure, though I would assume they are easier prone to leaking than the original ones. They are much more like the old hoses that I have and I can cut them in the lengthes that I need. So for all my MOCs I will keep the original hoses separately and just use the 3rd party hoses. And they are available in blue, black, grey and transparent.

Very nice. Now you just need an NXT to fully automate it. Or is it connected to an RCX unit?

Gladly, I would say, they not only paid for the parts, but also for your time and effort!

Well I think this is depending on the kind of part if you can spray paint it or not. I think this will work well with panels and rims. But I don't think it is very clever to do it with connectors, liftarms or pins. If you want it to be permanent and good, you need to use a primer and then apply the colour paint. After that you might also need a coat of clear paint to protect the color layer and give it a more shiny look. I guess this can be applied good to rims and panels. But pins would be the hardest, because the layer of paint changes the dimensions of the piece and it might be hard to insert them into pinholes or the pain comes off if you use the parts. If you dont want the paint job to be that good (in terms of layers) because you want to use the parts properly, the paint will come off more easily. And I guess this is not what anyone wants. In any case, if you want to clean the parts later, you need to use a paint that will come off with water, because you cannot use the typical paint stripper on the Lego pieces without damaging them. That's it from my knowledge of spray painting stuff. Not much, but I guess this shows the limits when spray painting Lego. What might be interesting, would be to make some Airbrush Graffiti style paintjobs on panels. Like the panel stickers of 9398, but permanent. edit: And I think that spray painting certain parts like rims should be legit, since they are mostly available in light grey only or sometimes in black. Other colors are very rare, if even available. But I think thats it already. Thats just like using 3rd party tires.

This will be very impressive again. I would kill for so many parts. Just out of curiosity ... what was the cost of the RPA approximately, what was the cost for that box of parts AND what do you expect the Gabon to cost?