nicjasno

Eurobricks Knights
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About nicjasno

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    nicjasno

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    Male
  • Location
    Maribor

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  • Country
    Slovenia
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  1. Need help with LPE

    Pictures of how to make it in the link in the description
  2. Most of your weight is inbetween the axles, and a dragster is designed to lift the front wheels of the ground. Something whch your car will not do. As far as the bike suspension goes that you made, it is very different from the real life forks that you posted in the previous post. The real life example has very small changes in caster, yours has huge ones, and is tilted too much actually.
  3. This guy has the right idea, but the concept has a few fatal flaws, like the huge bump steer in the front suspension setup, and you have the better drivetrain setup.
  4. As i suggest the whole time, you need a different front suspension. The trolley cart wheel that you have now is the worst possible option.
  5. Having the wheel supported on both sides is not necessary. The friction and rolling resistance are the least of your problems. And as you can see in the video i made, the cartwheel has the problem, that it is inherently unstable. Every slight difference between the rear wheels will immediatelly affect it, because the whole vehicle from the rear wheels forward acts as a giant lever on it. Your soft bike suspension is also not good, because there are gigantic caster changes during the suspension travel, making the whole thing unpredictable and unstable. Also, the center of gravity is not really important here, since the battery pack makes is pretty low. If i would be building such a vehicle, i'd use the double wishbone front, and have a single wheel as the drive wheel in the back, like a morgan 3 wheeler (if small rolling resistance is what you're after). Ultimately, i'd make a baja truck like chasis, with soft suspension and the proper front geometry. This would make it all very stable at high speeds over rough terrain.
  6. The caster line needs to run through the center of the wheel. And the trolley cart wheels show how unstable they are the moment they loose contact with the ground. Which at high speeds without suspension, your wheel absolutely does. Mount a gopro to it and film while running.
  7. Pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/31ai04x1sck22uy/AAC0YLEAdiwdN5taF2khQ0G6a?dl=0
  8. The bikes, when at speed, are stable in part, because of that very same caster angle. In cars, you also have kingpin inclination, which in combination with the caster provides the proper self centering.
  9. The current setup is exactly what a shopping cart has. And just look at the wobble that happens on those wheels everytime they hit something, even a slight surface imperfection.
  10. Yes, i did. But the problem is, you're doing testing on a smooth surface at low speeds, giving you false results.
  11. Not in combination with some camber ;)
  12. Your caster is tilted in the wrong direction. That's the first problem. I do have a very good and concrete idea how to do the suspension :) The motors and gears will be part of the rear live axle. The front will be an independent suspension with proper caster and kingpin angles, to ensure the wheels self center. The front also needs to be made with bionicle ball joints, to eliminate slack. I can design it all if you like. Don't have any of the r/c motors or the battery pack, but i can design the basics and let you adapt it to what you have.
  13. What @PorkyMonster said. I think i speak for us all here, we want to see this thing go as fast as possible. But for this, you need to completly redesign the chasis. The suspension type that would best fit this is that of a baja truck. With the narrow motorcycle wheels of course. But you need a suspesnion travel of at least 2-3 studs, and the suspension must be soft enough that it settles about 1 stud when you put the weight of the car onto it. This ensures that the wheels remain in contact with the ground even if they encounter a hole/dip in the road surface.