amorti

Such a shame the more recent suspension parts don't have an Ackermann angle or a decent CV joint. Good luck, keep sharing :)

It's definitely a valid point, although to counter it, at least since the new Lego Ferrari, I doubt very much if there's anything here you couldn't build with Lego (R) pieces only.

Even so you're saying you're happy paying up to 120€ for 1375 pieces. For me, a set without any electrical parts should be RRP'ed at that sort of money, the retailer shouldn't have to swallow 30€ loss to give it you at that price point. These discount tactics don't hurt Amazon. They hurt the small retailers who can't afford those discounts.

Well, China can surely solve that problem.

@Bartybum cool, they'll all be available on Ali next week

@2GodBDGlory only time will tell for sure, but if 1375 pieces is right, then that's half what the land rover had and all bets on any gearbox >2 speeds are off.

Too bad it's only Lego allowed. Cobi has a piece that's more or less just a cylinder, it's used as two studs to put plates together bottom to bottom. Would be ideal for that.

Agree. If we compare it to the red abomination, it's cheaper, smaller, and has fewer parts. Anyone who expects a gearbox here is, sadly, dreaming. At least we can look forward to some wacky C-models (B-models)

@Gray Gear what's the piece he's used then? nvm, just worked it out. One of those parts that definitely got better with time.

Lego Friends lipsticks will hold those exhausts together. There must be a legal way to hold the number plate in the front. The tank sides are made of 30+ pieces, with modern levels of QC for colour matching. I'm no system part expert, but must be possible to use fewer. What happens to the rear suspension in 'negative travel'? Looks like it'd have slack by the lower pivot point... Pivoting

It has potential, but there's some stuff to work out first. The exhausts can almost work like side-stands. Lose the black piece in the middle? I don't really love these new fork pieces. The lack of an axle hole right in the top means they're never going to look correct. Do you have any bigger pieces to use in the side panels? The rear shocks need better fixing points at the bottom. Even if it's just using another 2L thin and axle-pin to stop the one on there rotating.

T_Lego has said a big problem with the CaDA kit, was his design relies on rotational pin friction in a few places, and CaDA pins don't really have any. I guess the kit you got is from GoBricks pieces, and those have friction almost like 90's Lego pins, so I can imagine it would work much better. Shame it has to be a pirate copy :(

Could anything be done with 49668, so the piston only rose once per revolution? Not tried it, guess it'd be too steep of a ramp, but might be an idea.

Could you make a point to use the lower resolution image links? This thread takes an age to load on my phone. Looks good! The one change I'd like to see is thin lift arms held on with 3/4 pins rather than half pins or axles with bushes, which are old school solutions to that problem and less secure. For the linkage, you could use two 6L thin beams. Put black pins between them in the last two holes each end. This can then be placed inside a 6L wishbone. It's a very marginal amount of bending required and would give it a neat symmetrical look.

Or a pullback engine. Honestly I think that's where this set would go these days.

@nicjasnois your man for all things related to realistic suspension. Be ready though, he'll be quick to tell you if your design is pants.

The vehicle wants a V8, but I think classic pistons would look better. There is something fun about the clacky sounds of a mini motor though.

A fake v4 or even a pullback motor would both add a feature, but both be appropriate in technic vehicles of the scale. You'd be mad to force it into an even-width, half-stud long chassis and you'd never find a modern official set like that.

If the question is rigidity, the answer is always technic frames.

So that people who aren't what they're looking for can save themselves some heartache? Read another way: So that people who aren't what they're looking for, can be pretend to be that? /devil's advocate.

Seems like the minimum parts you need, to make it form locked. Could you show how you did it? I'm more a tinkerer than a designer, show me a picture of a thing and I'll tell you how it'll fail and where it wants bracing.

Name of the game is form locking. If you're relying on axle or pin connections not pulling out, it's not strong enough. On each adjoining axle hole, put a 3L axle with stop through two of these guys, one above and one below the gear racks, pointing inward. https://rebrickable.com/parts/42003/technic-axle-and-pin-connector-perpendicular-3l-with-2-pin-holes That'll join your circles of 4 quarters, and now you have something to attach liftarms to, in the correct orientation so they're form locked. Proviso: I don't have any of those gear racks, so idk if the 3l perpendicular connector is long enough.

Finally (!) had chance to play with this outside today. I made the fork legs 7L apart, because at 6L apart the front tyre can catch the springs. Unfortunately, that meant the 8L with stop front spindle reduced ground clearance unacceptably. The unbraced bevel box on the rear spindle might be ok for a Lego L motor, but it's not strong enough for a CaDA L motor. Adding the bracing on the outside as I've done also reduces ground clearance unacceptably. Both the above problems would be solved by changing the wheels. With a futuristic wheel in the back, the bevel box could be rotated inside the rear frame. With a futuristic wheel, 81.6 or 94mm front wheel, the fork could be 5L wide. It's nice to have wheels as a pair, but probably better to use a taller front wheel to add ground clearance. Could make it into a chopper that way. CaDA has a 3 spoke 94mm wheel that would look ok-ish paired with a rear futuristic wheel.

Updated 23/12/2020: CaDA's Facebook group now has instructions for the static version of the model uploaded to the Files section. It seems fair game to link you there, but also fair that no one re-upload them since, free or not, they are proprietary documents. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2218777094887398/?ref=share So chaps and chapesses - are we talking about @brunojj1's latest creation? I'll start then... First up, look at it. It's a beauty. It comes with 2* redesigned L motors which are supposed to be nearly twice as fast and torquey as Lego L motors. There's a review on YouTube showing it drive, and it moves much better than it should be able to, so I can believe it. It has two servos, one for steering and one for a gearbox which is sturdy enough to shift while driving ~3,200 pieces along. Phenomenally, this mechanism also smoothly moves the gear paddles in the cabin. The 3L pins and axle-pins are black. The tyres are really cool. There's just one thing... It's not made of Lego. It's been properly licensed by CaDA (who btw have never released a model based on stolen IP) from brunojj1. It costs $239 in Germany, direct from CaDA's online store, with 5-day shipping from China. That's $100 less than the Sian, which isn't motorised. For anyone who's curious, or perhaps has questioned Lego's pricing policy in recent times, there's a video on Bruno's YouTube channel, where you'll also find a 5% discount code. So... Is anyone else talking about it... Or do we need that specific pattern on our studs to feel good?

China bricks are definitely no longer just copycats! CaDA has Micromotors. MouldKing has a 6-port PF box with lipo battery, Bluetooth, and proportional remote control. Their servos also start to have proportional control, some two positions each side of zero, some 5 each side.