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amorti

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Everything posted by amorti

  1. amorti
    I did, but I'm afraid I don't remember the recipe.
  2. amorti
    Also... While I understand it's not easy to fit a differential in such a compact model, it's really uncomfortable even just pushing it around the table without one. Nevermind what happens when you add a motor. It would be better with 1WD, than that.
  3. amorti
    So, I tested the CaDA springs on my kitchen scales. They peak at about 1150g of force before they bottom out. Lego springs are around 1250g. It's not a massive difference and the suspension still doesn't work right, but it does let it return just a little higher. That and a friction pin at the top of the shock to reduce slack (it barely rotates at all anyway), and the car will sit at a sensible ride height on the shelf. At least until the springs sag. Oh, and while I'm whining: the seats are held on by a single 1*2 plate, where there's space for a 1*4 plate without any further modification. Do yourself a favour and take two if those from your spares.
  4. amorti
    If you omit the few pieces intended to stop the front axles disappearing when you put the wheels on, then it is able to return. But only a little bit, because actually it turns out that the springs are too soft. Also, there's a dark grey 20t thin bevel gear that redirects power from the prop shaft to the engine. It's in a 12:20 ratio, but it should have been done with a 12:12, because the 20t gear is too big. It hits the ground first when you bounce the front suspension. I'm not sure if it clears the crankshaft though, with 12:12. So the motto for this build, particularly when you compare it to e.g. the Lego white Porsche, is that extra functions are great... When they actually function.
  5. amorti
    This evening I finished the build. It's a nice build! However... The steering needs modifying to work as a manual system (unsupported gear due to bad construction / more likely forced by it being able to modify to RC) The front suspension feels decently weighted, but has too much friction to return. This seems to be due to excess friction in the ball joint hubs, although there are also some friction pins in there which I'll try swapping out for non-friction. The fake motor works smoothly... If you switch the half-pins for Lego, otherwise the pistons go up but don't come back down. The CaDA pins have CaDA embossed on the part, which acts as a friction ridge. You could also smooth it with a sharp blade but obviously you shouldn't have to. I won't motorise this one. I learned from the red model team style Porsche (same author M. Schlegel but I'm afraid I forgot his username here, someone please tag him if you remember it?) that driving system brick models doesn't make a whole lot of sense. However, compared to the Porsche, this one has a really solid rear axle and I wouldn't foresee it having a problem with skipping gears at all.
  6. amorti
    I finally started on the larger scale Citroen rally car last-last night. Two nights of building have seen bags #1 almost completed. It's going well so far, but... The steering wheel connection is built to be easily removable to insert a servo. It leaves the idler gear very floppy to the point that the manual steering basically doesn't work. There's an easy fix by just omitting two parts but it might not be obvious to everyone. There are 10x bags numbered 1, then bags 2&3. Phase 1 is over half the total part count. It might as well be unnumbered at that point.
  7. amorti
    Could be a fun thing to add to an LPE engine.
  8. amorti
    Vaguely interesting to see what notes somebody made themselves perhaps 30 years ago... but you could also just use the official uploaded instructions. https://www.lego.com/cdn/product-assets/product.bi.core.pdf/877169.pdf
  9. amorti
    It's kind of a live axle, using the rubber block for suspension.
  10. amorti
    Amazing shaping. Small thing - the door hinges could use the 4 axle with stop in the middle instead of a 5 axle and bush pins, to make it that bit smaller.
  11. amorti
    https://www.newelementary.com/2025/02/parts-review-sets-42206-oracle-red-bull.html?m=1
  12. amorti
    Their stuff is pretty crazy. Definitely cheat parts. @aFrInaTi0n had some parts from them and was impressed.
  13. amorti
    It is. I have some of their wheel hubs. They're 3D printed, but the print quality is very good. I made a video, but nobody really noticed it. Pretty niche, apparently. https://youtu.be/wvKhLBN7UZo?si=j1hbqf7NqiWHpQNm
  14. amorti
    Just wondering if apart from metaltechnicparts, you are aware of these guys? That frame (I don't know if they ever got past "coming soon") could solve the need for all the special parts, maybe. https://tf-engineering.at/diffcase/ I imagine they'd be willing to design a wheel hub with bearings, for the new CV joints.
  15. amorti
    In that model there was a battery pack and motor, driving a pneumatic cylinder to put air into the system. If you want to see the idea, you can (probably?) download the instructions at lego.com. Or otherwise, they used a similar system with more modern parts on the Mercedes Arocs, pretty sure you can still get the instructions for that one.
  16. amorti
    No. There was a time in my dark ages when I really needed that ≈£80 and it had to go.
  17. amorti
    8868. But to be clear it's 9641 that I have NIB.
  18. amorti
    I loved pneumatics as a kid, because I had the big black truck with the compressor. But somehow these days I find actuators better, as you can actually get accuracy with them. I happened across this set NIB at the local science museum and bought it on a whim, but now don't know what I'd do with it. Anyone in the EU interested in buying it? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=9641-1#T=S&O={"iconly":0}
  19. amorti
    It's so tempting, but a big part of my fun in MOCing comes from using stud.io and eventually uploading instructions. The brushless world wouldn't offer that. Also I feel like the setup costs could be quite a lot? I don't have any part of what's needed nor the knowledge. So battery, charger, transmitter, receiver, speed control, geek servo, etc. Eh, maybe one day. Maybe.
  20. amorti
    So, is that all? Is it still going to run wide open throttle until it hits something or reconnects, if it disconnected with WOT?
  21. amorti
    Yes, but it's something of an inside joke. There's another one just like it with different bodywork but not published.
  22. amorti
    Just to chip in on the "bw3 dead battery" issue. The box has an accelerometer which is used for "shake to wake". I guess that keeping that alive uses >0 amps, such that over a long time it would pull the battery below where a cell can be revived. @Zerobricks could you tell us more about the new disconnect feature mentioned in the app update? The lack of a failsafe in case of disconnects is what caused me and @aFrInaTi0n to set our RC motorcycle projects aside for ages. You can probably imagine what happens if a 25km/h motorcycle gets out of range and, as the previous software, just continues on full throttle. So it would be good for testing purposes, to know what we can expect it to do now. I assume if ping without pong, then stop all motors?
  23. amorti
    I would upload it without the special parts, and just leave some suspicious lime green liftarms in place of the ones which require a bearing :) As for the washer, maybe you could put a lime green 15535 "round 2x2 tile with hole" in that spot as a clue. Probably it will collide which will hurt your feelings, but it would still have less collisions left in than most instructions on RB :) I see something familiar in the background there :) Now you're apparently back out of a mini dark age, maybe you would publish that?
  24. amorti
    Opinions are like elbows, so here's mine: These motorised 1:8 cars are scale models first, and technic/RC models second. They have to be, because the license-giver insists, as we're told above. That might mean custom panels like the AMG One, or it might mean using some system bricks as shown here. I'm not against either option, because let's be honest the 1:8 cars are too big to seriously drive regularly anyway. Doesn't matter how well you construct them, they can't go over about 5km/h, which isn't really much fun. And there's a pretty high risk of breaking CV joints, differentials, and even twisting axles in the end. So. If you want good Technic play models and are OK with them taking liberties regarding the original looks, you can get that from Lego with 42166 or a bunch of other "because the stickers say that's what it is" licensed sets.
  25. amorti
    Thanks @aFrInaTi0n - I second this!
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