Raystafarian

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Raystafarian

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    42078

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    Japan

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  1. Bricklink would be my choice. Just find the part and then see what colors are available and put them on a wanted list to buy e.g. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=508#T=P&C=42. Then you can use "easy buy" to source the most cost effective purchase. Just sort by sellers that will ship to you. Sometimes rare colors will be expensive. There also might be a better option in NZ, as I only purchase from US sellers that ship to my US address in Japan, otherwise shipping gets ridiculous.
  2. Raystafarian

    [MOC] Laysan Albatross (Bird)

    It's simply pining for the fjords. Thanks!
  3. Raystafarian

    [MOC] Laysan Albatross (Bird)

    My MOC of a Laysan Albatross (Phoebastria immutabilis), scale is roughly 1 stud : 1 cm of an adult bird, give or take a few cm. The model is about 34 studs bill to feet and 84 studs wingtip to wingtip when not folded at all. There is a vertical round brick with axle hole on the underside of the model near the center of gravity so the bird can be displayed in flight. To say this isn't inspired by the work of Thomas Poulsom would be disingenuous at best and an outright lie at worst. The model was first built in Stud.io and then went through several revisions of the physical model. My favorite part of the build was trying to figure out how to keep the bill attached to the head securely - It was also kind of tricky to get the legs to extend out past the tail, which is a defining feature of the albatross. The only part I'm not completely happy about is the eye - the bird should have a dark patch around the eye, but that was near impossible to do with the way the plates are stacked on the face. I also know there under-wings should have some dark pattern on them, but that was simply too difficult to do - adding more (smaller) plates would make the wings too fragile to stay together. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. Bricksafe gallery with more photos, io file and pdf instructions
  4. Raystafarian

    Which is the best CMF Series? Thanks for playing

    Looks like I missed the end, but thanks for the game!
  5. Raystafarian

    Scale Modeling Building Help

    Looks like this forum isn't really full of question threads, so I figured I'd just ask a question here, as it seems to be the correct place. If I were to attempt to make a model of a Caterpillar 836G Landfill Compactor, the wheel drums are 2050 mm in diameter (without teeth) and 1397 mm in width The only wheels I can figure would work for this model are the 64711 wheels - the ones used on the 42071 dozer compactor. Those wheels are 56 mm in diameter (without teeth) and 20 mm in width If I stack two of them together, the diameter to width ratio is 1.4, which is very close to the actual wheels' ratio of 1.46 - this would put the model at 1:36 scale, correct? Does that seem like a reasonable scale for that type of machine? Is this even a good way to approach this, or should I base the scale off of something else?
  6. Raystafarian

    Which is the best CMF Series? Thanks for playing

    I kinda feel 'meh' for all of those.
  7. Raystafarian

    [MOC] Bulldozer

    Funny story, I was driving back from a hike over the weekend and passed a place that had a bunch of excavators in the yard, with their name on them - learned of Sumitomo-Kenki heavy equipment
  8. Raystafarian

    [MOC] Bulldozer

    Looks pretty good - the gaps in the blade throw me off a little bit, but I like it.
  9. Thanks for this! As for 10213 and 10231, they are both modeled on the NASA space shuttle orbiter, but they aren't branded NASA and don't correspond to any of the six actual orbiter names. Nor do they seem to suggest any particular STS mission. The difference of 27 parts, I hear, was to make the model more sturdy, I think with some technic connections. I would say they definitely count.
  10. Raystafarian

    Which is the best CMF Series? Thanks for playing

    I'll be perfectly honest, I only came out of my dark ages when series 14 was released. So I've only been able to actually purchase at the store series 12 and after, which means I have to vote based on photos.
  11. Raystafarian

    Which is the best CMF Series? Thanks for playing

    I mean.. yeah.
  12. That's really cool - what wheels/tires did you use?
  13. Raystafarian

    Brick de-yellowing techniques

    Ah, seems I was mistaken on the composition of OxyClean (thanks) - I didn't want to attempt to find it here because.. well it's just hard to come across certain things and I haven't seen it before. I might give it a go with just peroxide if I get any more used bricks that need it. The plates just seem to have the usual "harder to take apart" from the lack of skin oil from use, but they seem to be doing all right, not seeming more brittle or anything -
  14. Raystafarian

    LEGO Collectable Minifigures Series 19 poll

    I finally found them here (Japan) at a Toys R Us. Sadly they are still outnumbered like 4:1 by the Disney Series 2 CMF, that nobody wants to buy. We went through maybe 60 or 70 bags (all that were out) and didn't come across one dog sitter or one showering guy. I'd say maybe 30% of all the bags were pizza guy and the mummy queen.
  15. Raystafarian

    Brick de-yellowing techniques

    Apologies for the ridiculous bump here, but this is part of the index thread. I heated some baking soda (sodium bicarbonate [NaHCO3]) on the stove until it stopped bubbling, which (simply put) converted it to sodium carbonate [Na2CO3]. This is also known as soda ash, and as far as I can tell it's the active ingredient in OxiClean. After it cooled, I mixed 1/2 tablespoon of that with 1 cup hydrogen peroxide (3%) for a small batch of plates in a clear food-grade plastic container, out in the direct sunlight. Only took maybe a total of 6 hours to de-yellow the plates. I could see the difference in 3 hours and I planned to just go for 7 hours, but I didn't need to. It might have taken only 4 or 5 hours. Just thought I'd add in some specifics for anyone looking through this in the future.