Mechbuilds

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Everything posted by Mechbuilds

  1. Mechbuilds
    honestly better than the original.
  2. Mechbuilds
    Just a matter of time until somebody RC's it.
  3. Mechbuilds
    I haven't looked into powered up systems at all because i run everything trough buwizz. But what i can see from images from google, there is a PU small motor that looks like the M motor. Then there is a medium sized motor that looks like the L motor and the large motor that looks like XL motor. If i got the gist, you're telling me that those motors can be also used as servos? All of them? I might consider getting buwizz 3.0 and some of those PU motors. I have no experience on those PU stuff. All i can say that they look ugly and the connector looks more like an internet cable than a lego cable. I'm assuming the boxy shape of the new motors help you connect beams around them? Can the PU motors compete with the buggy motor? EDIT: If i base my comparison between PU and PF from this video, it seems like powered up is garbage compared to it's predecessor.
  4. Mechbuilds
    This is gonna be one cool PC!
  5. Mechbuilds
    While trying hard to figure out a working AWD front axle for a drift car, i discovered a cool trick how to make a surprisingly sturdy wheel hub.. Check it out: If somebody can make an axle that uses this, it would be amazing! V2: This is also very sturdy and no half stud offset. Man i'm on fire with this hub!
  6. Mechbuilds
    Press F to pay respects to all the people of the future who missed the build streams.
  7. Mechbuilds
    Amazing work! Nice detail on the engine too!
  8. Mechbuilds
    Very interesting mechanism.
  9. Mechbuilds
    The L motor has more torque than the buggy motor. https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm Buggy motor is all about speed. High RPM. It doesn't translate to high torque.. I've managed to snap U joints when using buwizz and XL motors. Simply by going forward and backward fast. I'm pretty sure on this application the buggy motors will just stall due to the gearing. Using harder rubber tyres (chinese copy) will have less grip than standard lego tyres.. So the tyres will probably just slip due to the light chassis.
  10. Mechbuilds
    I will be using buwizz. The battery box and reciever is there only to test the steering because it's just much faster to use the battery box and IR reciever to quickly check than opening up your phone, starting bluetooth, connecting to buwizz and doing it that way. EDIT: I mean there is enough power to make the axle jump when i grab the wheel. The whole axle jumps up in my hands before the motor stops spinning. If i hold the power on, i can pretty much hold the wheel and make the motors float. All that weight on the CV axles. But i don't see any parts snapping because of the power. Everything is working fine. You can build the same axle yourself and try it.
  11. Mechbuilds
    Removed the U joints and changed them to CV joints. Went full speed and grabbed the wheel with my hand. It completely hard stopped the 2 buggy motors and it went to power saving mode. Did this 5 times on a row and no damage anywhere. Seems fine!
  12. Mechbuilds
    Would be impossible to have a suspension then. If you look at the buggy motors, they're facing forward. There is going to be a fake engine on top of that rear axle. If the axle was a solid axle, the only suspension with no U joints in between would be a pendular suspension. If i had a solid axle with suspension, the suspension would have to include the buggy motors too. That would be a massive chunk of stuff suspended. Considering i have to fit interior, fake engine, openable hood for the enginebay and all that stuff, it would be pretty compact and crowded to have all the features. What i'm looking for is a model car like the lamborgihini so you can put it on a shelf and look at it. push down on it to show it has suspension, and have all that good stuff.. But you could also power on the buwizz and drive it. Two buggy motors would give it enough power to kick the tail loose. EDIT: I can just swap the U joints to CV joints.. DOIII!!!
  13. Mechbuilds
    You are correct on the U joint not aligned with the suspension pivot. However if you build it in real life and try it, it works. everything seems to work smoothly. There is no other possible way to make it work with an independent suspension in this scale. It's 25 studs from edge of wheel to the other. (17 studs between hub mounting points.) Unless you have another suggestion then i'm all ears. This is a difficult scale to work with. The front axle has only 1 stud of suspension travel. If the rear would match the front axle suspension travel then all the better. Really open for suggestions here..
  14. Mechbuilds
    How am i going to break the U&CV joints when it's a low torque application? I'm using chinese fake tyres which are very hard and not that grippy. EDIT: 25 studs total width means 62,5 studs of total length. I guess it could be a stud or two shorter. From hub to hub perhaps 35 studs?
  15. Mechbuilds
    [Part 18973pb05] Windscreen 6 x 4 x 1 Curved with Red Roof Pattern could be used to make this thing have working lights.
  16. Mechbuilds
    Current state of drift car: I have a feeling that i have too much power and this thing will just make donuts.. Size is 17 studs between hub mount points. How long should i make the chassis?
  17. Mechbuilds
    Sooooo many mocs.. And they just keep on coming and coming! Amazing!
  18. Mechbuilds
    Finally the front axle is done. Complete with the next features: -Ackermann steering. -Positive caster. -Output for steeringwheel. -Suspension This is a good start.
  19. Mechbuilds
    When building a drift chassis out of lego, which is better: RWD or 4WD? Should you go for all locked diffs or all open diffs or front open rear locked? Which motor configuration is best, buggy or L motors or what? Are the configurations scale specific? Small scale: 15 ish stud wide Medium scale: 21 ish stud wide Larger scale: 31 ish stud wide What i want is easy to use (only forward/backward and left/right) Easy to drift (tape on tyres) Strong structure (no illegal connections or over complicated caster/camber setups) So what's the best scale for this? I already ordered 2 buggy motors and was thinking about medium scale 4wd.. Is it a good idea for a setup?
  20. Mechbuilds
    Man that's amazing! Good work! So compact. I like that use of yellow panel around the gauge cluster.
  21. Mechbuilds
    I hate how they made the headlights. Using a sticker there is just lazy.
  22. Mechbuilds
    You should work for lego. Becuase this is better than the official sets they make.
  23. Mechbuilds
    Definitely SR20DETT. Twin turbo is better than single turbo. Easy come easy go, little high little low.
  24. Mechbuilds
    I'm so glad i made this thread: Fake engine collection thread Hope we get more cool scale motors there.
  25. Mechbuilds
    Man i should invest in some system bricks.. Making bodywork from technic is hard.. Keep up the good work and post lots of pictures from the chassi. Interesting stuff!