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  1. After testing it with just with an axle in the middle, i found out that when i stall an XL motor, the axle will twist from torque.. But after adding the beams to toughen it up, it seems much more solid with no torque twisting.. (other than the XL motor jumping out of my test rig)
  2. I designed the toughest driveshaft you can build from lego. Introducing the hub-joint: You can choose to either connect the middle hubs together and even connect the axle to them so it can spin or you can decide not to connect them. After trying it in real life, it's so darn strong that you can stall an XL motor with zero damage to the driveshaft. The 9 long beams are not necessary though.. You can just remove them and the light gray hub connector part and just have the 3 stud connector only and it'll work just the same. However if you want to limit axle bending, i recommend connecting the center axle to the beam assembly and having the beams rotate as well. You can get 3 stud of travel in one direction so basically 7 studs total. That's huge with a driveshaft this short.. You can also make it as long as you want and get even more travel. This can be used in large mocs that really need a very strong driveshaft due to massive torque. Bonus for this is that it can also be made quite telescopic. Axles have 3 studs to move telescopically before they hit the pulleys.
  3. The dodge ram is finished!
  4. This is my dodge ram build that i've built with the help of @keymaker It's based off keymakers chevy which i've made much larger. Features: - 4wd. - L motor drive - Servo steer - Easy to disassemble modular body. - Crude basic interior - Leaf springs on rear axle - Buwizz You can remove the bed by first pulling the sides of the bed out and then pulling it backwards. Which will leave you with a bed floor, mudguards and rear tail lights. The mudguards and the front of the bed floor can be removed which will expose the rear leaf springs. The cab is a little bit tricker to remove. You need to push the bump stops off and then push two pins to detach the front end. Then pull the body up to release a pin behind the buwizz pointing upwards.. Then you just pull the cab to the side which will disconnect it from the L motors side. You're left with the barebones chassis which shows how simple the chassis really is.
  5. wish i had.. used to play with them when i was a kid in the 90's.
  6. Did anybody else build long tentacle arms to technic figures back in the day? Boy that was fun. I also used to build battle armor to technic figures.
  7. Awesome little project!
  8. Wow this is interesting. Love how you manage to fit so much function inside a microscopic space scalewise.
  9. Update: Rear bed and rear axle + rear part of the chassis complete.. To do list: -Power transfer -Front axle -Finish the chassis -Interior
  10. It's been a while since i've posted anything.. Time to resurrect from the dead.. With a new project. "shocking".. Okay so since @keymaker did the chevy build, i've finally found the truck shape i'm looking for. So after a little bit of copying and also receiving some help from keymaker himself, i've managed to start my own project. Dodge ram pickup: Note: The front mask is missing a couple of pieces.. Need to order those gray 1x1 bricks so i can fill in the gap next to the front headlights. But i'm very pleased how the front maks turned out. It also has that curvy shape on the grille and the vertical gray line that the dodge has. Now i'm quite stuck with the chassis. Since the keymakers chevy chassis is shorter and narrower than this dodge, i needed to widen the front axle.. While this size increase will let me add more functions like springs for the suspension and a differential to make this thing turn, i'm still facing my greatest weakness.. I can't really make solid axles.. here is an LDD of where everything needs to be: I've toyed around with a similar steering solution than the @rm8 FJ-40 has and it seems to be the best solution to keep the wheels straight when the suspension/chassis is flexing when crawling rocks. But if i have a steering rack, i can mount the servo inside the chassis and give me room under the bonnet.. But that also has issues.. The axle will be very bulky and it will steer when suspension/chassis is flexing. I did check for room under the hood and if the servo is mounted on it's side, there is enough room for it to be there and the hood to close. I'm not really looking for insane amount of flex but just a working suspension so the thing is driveable.. The mustang wheels help to get better geometry since i can get the tire very close to the pivot point. What makes this a challenge is using no hubs but an axle connection instead. The jeep tires really fit this scale and makes the pickup truck look more realistic to scale instead of having "monster truck tires".. Any suggestions on the axle and suspension will be appreciated.
  11. Somebody should make an RC version of this so it actually walks.
  12. i'm not even mad.. That B model is heaps better than the original and it actually has functions!