pow

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. The tail rotor is massive. But I think it's cool what functions you squeeze into the small rotor! The cockpit looks nice and tidy. The whole thing is brilliant. And the wheeled stretcher aka transport bed has changed compared to the video. Very detailed now.
  2. yep, i was amazed at how well pushrod configurations work. I had tested a configuration with 32005a Technic Link as the rocker. That looked incredibly good. The suspension also felt very direct. Disadvantage: It consumes a little more space.
  3. @Jurss that is a really good question. The wheel somehow works and there isn't much to choose from. But why not trying to open up the fender a bit to support larger tires as well?! I just bought 4x tire 35578 with 37x14mm. This is the only tire that still somehow makes sense based on the shape. Everything else is too big or too wide. And if this tire fits, then any smaller tire will fit as well. So everyone can decide for themselves which tire should be mounted. I've created two renders - for size comparison. Tire 35578 is the one mounted as rear wheel. Your comment was very helpful Jurss. Hopefully I get the tire baked in. You people are awesome!
  4. The video quality is awesome. Á propos quality: The most important detail... There was a (some?) person who patiently taped all the road markings on the floor. Respect for that! I ask myself if there could be some topic for groups to promote their events. Maybe with some rules like adding maximum one promotional photo and/or video and maximum 5 sentences to describe the event. Or does something like that exist? ...sorry a noob question :) Best wishes
  5. @gyenesvi Ah you are speaking of "42099 C model 'Beasty'" at rebrickable?. Did you use the rocker configuration to get more travel into your suspension or a softer spring - or both? BTW: i tested some other configurations but only this survived in a backup file, It looks slightly more like your configuration and worked pretty well (the rocker pushes the long end of a 2x4 L-shaped liftarm which itself pushes the shock absorber with the short end). oh yes, as soon as you try to build to scale, the problems start. With the small car here, I took the liberty of building a racing version or hot(!) hatchback for this reason. Because of the differential, the rear axle is much too wide to pass as an everyday car. Hi @Jundis thank you for the introductory kind words. I know this kind of communication as giraffe language. A very great and non-violent way to communicate. You have a good eye for details as I find. And I am grateful for your criticism. Let's put it this way: decisions have been made Because what I find clean, may seem ridiculously untidy to someone else. Here is a photo of an earlier very untidy state of this suspension and the whole car itself. Jundis, you mentioned the lower parts of the swing arm. They are one of the oldest parts of the construction. i haven't touched them for a while. Possibly I can rearrange the area. But it depends heavily on the "housing" for the differential. Which is build completely out of 2 types of axle-pin-connnectors. The idea to hide the shock absorber came up because I find the colors of the parts too flashy. they make the build look too busy. In a very early attempt I tried to integrate them as a B-pillar. but that didn't work because the spring effect was zero. In the end they ended up in the roof, since there is a supporting structure under the roof anyway. Another reason is that there is simply no room to put them elsewhere. Here is a photo of the left C-pillar. It folds way inward. And the battery box consumes a lot of space too. As i wrote i'm very thankful for your hints on the build. I will definitely keep an eye on the Swing arm design. Since I haven't looked at optimization potential there for a while. And if you have the feeling it could be cleaned up, others may think that as well. Best wishes
  6. Hi i'm working on a feature loaded 80's style hot hatchback, because... Brick builded cars have always been super popular. But somehow the developers usually try to reproduce real mechanics. In my opinion it sometimes would be more fun if the function would follow the form. Like in the Batmobile 76139, for example, where the front wheels don't move back and forth through the fender when steering. They rotate on the spot. I asked myself: can I do something like that? Can I build a super compact car without sacrificing features? So I challenged myself with the task of building a 1:18 scale car, based on parts from the Land Rover 42110. The following functions should be included: - manual and motorized version - manual version with hand of god steering - motorized version uses 2 M-motors (one each for steering and drive) - rear wheel drive - swing arm suspension at the rear axle - differential - individually sprung front wheels (rubber band) - Virtual pivot steering like in the mentioned Batmobil (Step 100 in the 200MB large instruction https://www.lego.com/cdn/product-assets/product.bi.core.pdf/6362924.pdf) - all doors, hood and tailgate can be opened The Result so far looks pretty clean and simple i think. You can imagine it took me a while to reach this state. For example, to make room for a 3x4x8 bricks sized battery box like the BuWizz 2.0, the spring had to go under the roof. The suspension looks pretty good, i think. And hopefully hides invisibly under the roof. Wohoo!! Oh and you can't imagine how long it took to develop this simple looking thing like the drivetrain-differential combination in such a tiny package not influencing other sections of the car too much. Mantra: if it looks simple it took some time to develop. And what i have learned so far is that building on tiny space means, changing a single part can lead into a rebuild of large areas around. That was super frustrating sometimes. I now have the greatest respect for people who fill such gaps with any complex mechanics. My car is simple compared to stuff you people here on eurobricks often(mostly?) show. What do you think? Best wishes :)
  7. @gyenesvi i expected to find a CNC-Version of this part. The Lego version is stable enough to withstand jumping. The material was abraded due to rotation. In my opinion a well lubricated CNC version would be perfect. But you guessed it: there doesn't exist something like this. i would address this problem by putting a lego axle in two ball bearings. Here are a few quick designs. The white round thingies at the red axle-pin-connectors should mimic two tiny ball bearings. The rest is known stuff. The blue connectors are placeholders. They are to suggest that the red connectors are somehow held. It is just a stupid idea. No working concept. The pictures are inspired by this photo: Source: https://www.1000steine.de/de/gemeinschaft/forum/?entry=1&id=309567 PS: another Link with nano bearings for trains:
  8. What i have learned from this topic is that geek servos are meant for RC. I thought they have to be used with Lego PF. But @FriedlS has some interesting point: The buggy motors produce a lot of heat. If that heat is able to escape within the cables into the (melting) plug. This could worsen the heating issues even more. So air-streaming the plug and cables might be clever. @2GodBDGlory That could also be a good question to start a new topic with: How to keep buggy motors cool?... @DrJB the chart was copied from philohome. It's mentioned somewhere in the comments. Best wishes and a good start into the week.
  9. May be doing a 2nd Version with reinforced wheel mount? ...if possible. Are there any (technical) museums interested in such a thing? BTW: the color scheme is cool!
  10. @2GodBDGlory that's a good idea. But i can't help that much more on that topic. my knowledge ends exact here. but for general amusement I dug up this old topic about melted plastic.
  11. Everytime you react on dickylaban you're going to help him. I'm watching this topic for a while now. Everytime it becomes silent dicky pushes his topic up in the list by stating some weird comment. And as we react on him we help him getting klicks (on rebrickable?). And the bulldozer-bike is so expensive because that makes it more visible, more often be seen. Even rebrickable needs to earn some money. If we really want to stop those strange people the best is to ignore them. I'm out cheers.
  12. @2GodBDGlory hm, good question. the old 9V plugs are very similar to the PF plugs. And the cables also have a very slim cross-section. It would also be interesting to know at which point the plugs become warm. Perhaps there is a certain place on the connector is made particularly thin and the electrons must squeeze through there.
  13. @2GodBDGlory This chart from the link above shows that the current increases with higher voltages (but not much to be honest). 5292 Torque Rotation speed Current Mechanical power Electrical power Efficiency 4.5 V 5.7 N.cm 150 rpm 1.36 A 0.87 W 6.12 W 14 % 6 V 5.7 N.cm 380 rpm 1.38 A 2.27 W 8.28 W 27 % 7.5 V 5.7 N.cm 580 rpm 1.37 A 3.45 W 10.3 W 34 % 9 V 5.7 N.cm 780 rpm 1.40 A 4.61 W 12.6 W 37 % 10.5 V 5.7 N.cm 1030 rpm 1.46A 6.16 W 15.3 W 40 % i wonder why the stackable plugs for the buggy motors were allowed to be used at all.
  14. @2GodBDGlory https://philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm says each buggy motor pulls 1.4A at 9V so two eat twice as much. 2.8A over such a thin cable may be enough to warm it up. But do they run at 9V or even more? @FriedlS thanks for the picture. and the helpful information. I will definitely experiment with som caster angles.
  15. @aFrInaTi0n I guessed the question would come. The Picture is misleading. Both wheels have to corner (I hope they do to be honest ). This was just a quick build to underline, what i'm thinking of. BTW: Thanks for the hint on Ackermann geometry, including the link. Did i get your intention wrong, because i mentioned the name in my post. Best wishes