Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by BrianGT

  1. I am at 96.4% completion for the parts, missing 549 parts still: Quite a beast. I broke out the parts for the first two books, which took a lot more effort than I expected. Will see how it goes and probably break out the rest into books into pieces after I get started with the build. Challenge now is to find the time to start the build.. Thanks again for sharing!
  2. I was unable to create a brickshelf account, so I threw them on Let me know if you have issues and I can find an alternative method for the files.
  3. Thanks. It should help a lot with the build. I was able to modify the spreadsheet to export CSV files for pulling back into Rebrickable to create custom lists on a book by book basis. I can put the csv files somewhere if anyone else would like them. Example: Book 1: I am about 92% through pulling parts for the whole set, and am starting to split up the total parts by book. Should make it easier to build each book with ~3k parts or less in a pile instead of 15k. Thanks to rockpig and especially Raskolnikov for their efforts!
  4. Works for me. You need to add the LEGO30 promo code once it is in your cart.
  5. I ended up trying to replicate your design as closely as possible, with the plate setup: I ended up having to redo it a couple of times to resolve friction issues with the quad plates. I had issues with misalignment of the plates vertically and laterally. I shifted the plate stack 2 studs from where it appears to be in the original to allow for more 1x1 round bricks between the pairs, and added 1x1 round plates and tiles to the parts elsewhere to keep it more contiguous, which seemed to fix the vertical issues. For the lateral movement, I found that when I first assembled it, the stack ended up with a bit of a curve in it, causing a lot of friction for the axles in a few spots. I had to take it apart and straighten it out on a flat table. Also had issues initially with some axles not being 100% straight. It spins easily now by hand. I received the wrong parts from my bricklink order for the 1x2x1 panels, without rounded edge, so need to reorder. Still trying to decide what to do before and after the wave, might figure out a way to integrate more closely with my ball factory moc. Thanks again for sharing, -Brian
  6. Started this tonight after finding enough gears for 6 pistons. Had a few questions: - What is your reasoning for having two sets of technic plate guides between the cam shaft section and piston. The single double plates seems to keep the crankshafts aligned well vertically. Any possibility for a close-up of how these are supported from below? - Are all 8t gears on the bottom linked together? I was wondering if the gear lash differences doing this would cause more friction, rather than having 5 groups of 7/8/8/8/7 driven off the main shaft. - Any close-up of the mechanism that you used to induce the balls onto the lift? This is the first time trying to build someone else's MOC without instructions, and my second GBC after Akiyuki's ball factory. Thanks again for sharing this mesmerizing creation, -Brian
  7. Appreciate you posting this up. Placed a bricklink order today to see if I can build something similar.
  8. I had issues with the 14mm beads. They were too small for working with the Akiyuki ball factory. I picked up some 9/16" Inch Delrin Plastic Ball Bearings, which are a little bigger than 14mm, and closer to the lego balls. The 14mm beads would jam in my Ball Factory, while the 9/16" bearing would not, and had much better tolerances. I picked them up from for $11 shipped for 100. I first tried Rigid HDPE Polyethylene Ball 9/16" Diameter as well from McMaster Carr, and they worked as well. They were $13.31 shipped for 25. I went with the Delrin ones as they were cheaper with similar specifications.
  9. 1x6 worked perfect. Thank you for sharing this!
  10. I thought about a diode, but wasn't sure if the diode loss would cause issues with lower speeds.
  11. Anyone figure out a way to easily disable reverse on the 9V train controller module? I have been using it for my Ball Factory V2, but my daughter threw it in reverse yesterday, breaking the chains and messing up timing in a few other areas. I was thinking of putting nail polish over the reversing contacts on the PCB, but wondering what others have possibly done. -Brian
  12. There are detailed videos of the pump and comparisons of the arms with and without Springs. Pretty solid builds.
  13. Saw this on Youtube today: More details on his youtube channel: Interesting interpretation of a ball factory. -Brian
  14. I live near this seller, and asked him about this a while back. From my understanding, the goal of this auction is to draw traffic into his other auctions. Notice that there is a ~7-week lead time for delivery on this, for which he logistically has a plan to follow through and still profit off the $100 a lb price. I imagine the chance of someone pulling the trigger on this is as close to zero as you can get, but it seems to pull traffic to his other auctions. I am not sponsored by this seller, but have bought quite a bit from him, and appreciate his business.
  15. Saw this review earlier.. quite strange:
  16. Tumbler wheels are also the same diameter, but the offset is too high, leading them to stick out an extra half inch. Size comparison: Not sure why you wouldn't want to use the original wheels, which should be awesome for MOCs. EDIT: added picture for size comparison I think the black axle pins are going to go up more, as they are not nearly as common.
  17. Finishing building mine today (early father's day present), and found that my 8448 wheels fit on it with no issues. Not that they are that good looking on the car: Porsche wheels fit on 8448 with a simple hub swaps as well Swapped most of the blue parts to black, and the 3 and 5 axles to black. Had a good bit of parts left. Liking the idea of locking out the gears from going from 4->1 or 1->4 Excited to see how this build can be improved
  18. Pictures were posted to instragram by RM8 EDIT: grammar correction
  19. I built this last week, and prefer the gull wing door setup, but putting the motor in the back, as the back looks a bit empty with it up front. Gull wing model appears to use a few more parts, but not a ton more than the convertible model. Agree that the instructions are different, but are still pretty easy to follow. It helps that they give you a parts call-out for each step, unlike some of the older instructions. I am curious to see how the size compares with the new 42056 set coming out. Also, the Tumbler front wheels fit on 8448 pretty well (same diameter and backspacing, but wider):
  20. Great review. I just picked up and agree. I rebuilt my 8448 as well in preperation for 42056. I forgot it has no HOG either.
  21. Still that price on amazon:
  22. Illustration of the difference: http://www.autoevolu...ine-85305.html# I guess you could use one crank shaft per side to emulate this behavior more accurately, keeping the same depth, but making the engine wider, with the two crank shafts giving 6 crank pins. EDIT: Additional info: Motor/ The lack of piston washers makes this a challenge.
  23. I found the same thing and ended up taking screenshots from Mocplans and making a pdf for my personal use, so that I could effectively view them. Mocplans also wasn't working with Chrome, had to use firefox. Plans are really well done.
  24. Thanks a ton to pvdb and Blakbird. Just bought the instructions and am ordering parts to build. Such a great lookinMG build!