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Found 234 results

  1. Before I disappoint anyone I want to say that this project is still in a phase where I am not sure if I will actually build the car. Right now I just want to see if I can fit a 6speed manual transmission with AWD and 4 wheel steering into one car and make it work reliably. But if things do work out I will probably finish the R34 project because the R32,R33 and R34 are the only japanese cars I know of to combine AWD and 4WS This is my current progress: I managed to squeeze a gear rack into the transmission I used for my R32 GT-R to give it 4 wheel steering. I also had to decrease the overall width on each side by 1 stud to give the tires space to turn without rubbing here you can see the gear rack placement. I had some massive issues clearing the two differentials, but it all worked out very well in the end. And I only had to increase the transmission length by 1 stud! I am satisfied. Bellyshot. The 20T bevel gear engaging with the center diff will be replaced with the new 20t straight cut gear once I get my hands on it. Thanks again to @Zerobricks for trying out if this combination would work. Gray Gear
  2. bricksboy

    [MOC]#91 Lamborghini Countach 80's

    MOC#91 Lamborghini Countach 80's It is the 2nd creation suggested by my channel's viewer. The scissor doors and the engine hood can be opened. Welcome to check out my stop-motion animation for this MOC: More MOC on my homepage: https://www.bricksboy.com/moc
  3. dimka_ya

    [MOC] 8pin cars

    Hello :) Topic for placing in one place my self-made products 8pin wide in the scale of Speed Champions. Pleasand viewing! I will be glad to comments with wishes and criticism :)
  4. After building the 1:8 scale Spano GTA, I wanted to make something more compact, yet even more functional for the BuWizz camp 2021, which got postopned to 2022. The rules behind this model stated to build a 1:10 scale representation of a real existing car, which has to have a working gearbox, fake engine and working steering wheel. After researching different types of super and hypercars, I chose the Acura/Honda NSX since it had several good pros compared to the more famous brands like Ferrari or Lamborghini: The real car has a smaller profile, which means a lower weight It uses a hybrid AWD system, which would come in handy for the LEGO model for accelerating and braking on all wheels Engine powering is a V6, which doesn't take as much space as the typical V8, V10 or even V12 Since it's a less known supercar, my LEGO version could be the first one in such scale I used a simillar technique as with Spano GTA where I imported the 3D model into the Lego Digital Designer and used it as a 3D reference. Using this technique I ended up with a really close representation, and it really shows: As you can see in the gif above, not only does the model look very good, it's also full of functionality: 4x BuWizz motors for driving All wheel drive 2 Speed gearbox Working fake V6 coupled directly to the drive motors Working steering wheel 2x BuWizz 3.0 for control Double wishbone suspension on all wheels Dimensions and weight ended up as following: Length: 45 cm Width: 20 cm (without mirrors) Height: 12.5 cm Weight: cca 1,5 kg Here is how the model's underside looks like, drive motors are driving two independent gearboxes in order to evenly spread the mechanical load. This kind of a setup also cancels out any side forces on the central drive axle, thereby reducing friction and wear: In order to cram all the powertrain components in the rear the drive motors are placed in a V shape. This way there is just enough space between them for a functional V6 engine and a PU medium motor which switches the gearbox: Thanks to the compact powerline and driveline, the interrior is very spacious and both seats are almost 1:8 scale sized, measuring 6 studs wide. There are even stoppers and interrior details on the doors themselves: ž The end performance of the model is higher than what I expected, there is enough torque to freespin all 4 wheels, jump over ramps and top speed in high gear is almost 20 km/h! You can see how well it performs the video: To conclude, this is my first 1:10 scale supercar which also ended up extremely compact, functional, robust and good looking. I also think a 1:10 scale may be beneficial when it comes to reliability and robustness, since models tend to weight half the weight of their 1:8 counterparts while still incorporating a simillar level of functionality and details. Having said that, this will not be my last 1:10 supercar and I think for the next one I will ditch the gearbox and simply drive the wheels directly from the motors without any weak differentials.
  5. Hello Speed Champions fans, Black Arrow is a ficticious hypercar which was designed for a "Hypercar building contest" hosted by sfh_bricks on Instagram. I tried to design something really cool inspired by the cyberpunk culture. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-119144/_TLG_/black-arrow-hypercar-concept It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. Some rules had to be followed: only certain types of car bases, wheels, fenders and windscreen are allowed, cockpit have to be closed, fixed dimensions (wheelbase, width, and maximum length), build must fit a full minifig with helmet. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore stickers are not used. My intent was to keep the build smooth and to add lots of details: for example the air intakes, the rear wing, the side view mirrors etc. . Maybe the most challenging one was the double headlight. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. There are two versions of the front assembly : 1) the double headlight version which is a bit more extreme and 2) the simple headlight version which is more solid and sturdy. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use a helmet or small hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Black Arrow 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Black Arrow 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Black Arrow 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Black Arrow 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Black Arrow 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Black Arrow 06 by László Torma, on Flickr Black Arrow 08 by László Torma, on Flickr Black Arrow 07 by László Torma, on Flickr
  6. After many years of work, I am proud to present my take on the McLaren 720s in 1:10 scale. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr It took 4 different iterations of chassis to get to this final version. I started this project with (almost) no experience in Technic MOCs, so I expected this to be the case. The first version was in 1:10 scale, had an 8-speed gearbox (which couldn't shift reliably), was wobbly as could be, and looked abhorring. The second version was in 1:8, -for some reason I thought that my first technic MOC could be THAT large without encountering many problems- I quickly realized how wrong I was. The building process was infinitely harder than in 1:10 due to the required stability and stiffness and added connections between components. This version had a really unique mechanism that I hadn't seen anywhere else though: adjustable drive modes, thanks to small linear actuators controlling the stiffness and travel of the shock absorbers. (you can find a video of the mechanism in action here:) Suspension with adjustable stiffness by @tiledfloor, on Flickr This version also had remote door controls, but after many problems regarding part count, sturdiness etc. I quickly realized that 1:10 was a better suited building scale for me. And so came the final two iterations, the first was almost a 1:1 copy of Dirk Klijn's mp4-12c, but after completing the chassis, I dismantled it to create one that allowed me to add a couple more functions, but I can safely say Dirk's model was the one that inspired me and taught me the most throughout my journey, along with Bruno Jensen's P1 and Charbel's 720s. And the final one was the one that I was finally satisfied with… Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr I wanted it to be completely modular, meaning that every single mechanism could be separated from all of the surrounding components. This was the most difficult part of the building and designing process. To achieve this, I settled on a transverse 4-speed sequential gearbox (IIRC, it was borrowed from Charbel’s 8 speed design), a custom made v8 which would sit as low as possible to allow for some detailing on top. The most difficult part of the chassis was the one-piece carbon monocoque also present in the real deal. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr It had to be stiff, allow for two functions to pass through it (gear shifting and active aerodynamics), and still fbe as close to the real McLaren as possible form-wise. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr The modularity also presented many problems mainly relating to the longitudinal stiffness, and I must admit, I wasn’t able to solve all of them, which resulted in a chassis that bends a bit when the suspensions are activated. Though overall it does generally behave as a single-piece chassis, and driving it around feels stable. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr The rear axle is perhaps the most compact, stable and best looking part of the chassis imo. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr After the chassis came the bodywork. It has many, many, MANY illegal connections that bend and induce torsion in long beams and panels. But overall, I am actually quite happy with the way the body turned out. The lines are as smooth as I find reasonably possible in this scale, and the proportions are mostly accurate. The car sits as low as I wanted it to, and has many of the original curves and lines that make the car recognizable imo. (most importantly, it passes my “squint test”, where if I squint hard enough it is indistinguishable from a photo of a real 720s.) :) Here is a rundown of the functions present in my model: -independent suspension on both axles -steering wheel/HOG with an acceptable turning radius -folding display in front of the steering wheel -adjustable seat recline on both seats -opening hood (half) and doors (though the doors require a bit of a wiggle to get them to sit right) -airbrake connected to steering -fake v8 -4 speed sequential gearbox controlled from the cabin (via turning a knob) -modular chassis -modular bodywork Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr The rear was very difficult to recreate due to the many intersecting curves and the large space the active airbrake mechanism takes up, but it’s the part of the body that I’m most happy about. Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr here you can see the airbrake in action, notice that the front wheels are in a “steered” position and that the spoiler is raised compared to the previous photos. And a final shot of the rear: Lego 1:10 McLaren 720s by @tiledfloor, on Flickr I am going to upload a video showcasing the functions whenever I can, in the meantime here is my bricksafe for a couple more photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/tiledfloor/mclaren-720s-110- I eagerly await any and all constructive criticism. With this being my first full technic MOC, as well as my first scale model, there are plenty of things I can learn from you guys. Thanks!
  7. My next alternate model of 42125: Ferrari Enzo Features: - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Independent suspension - Fake engine - Working steering wheel Video: There's much influence of the 8653 set, which is my favorite one. So it's a kind of modern representation I made Rebrickable page: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-112172/paave/ferrari-enzo
  8. After what felt like forever I am finally ready to presesnt you my latest MOC: The Nissan 180SX Type X! Building Instructions are live now on Rebrickable, no more waiting this time : Rebrickable The 180SX has always been one of my favorite cars from Japan. I always wanted to build a drift car, and since the 180SX is probably the most popular drift car to ever exist it was a natural choice. Fitted with a full rollcage, a switch to turn off the HICAS w wheel steering system and a front steering with increased turning radius, ackermann and a positive caster angle this car is sure to be a lot of fun on the togue. One of my inspirations was the badass Sil80 from Initial D, driven by Mako and Sayuki. The License Plate is a nod to this Origin. I even made the front Bumper easy to remove/replace, In case I want to do a Silvia front swap myself later Features:- working SR20DET fake engine- 6speed manual transmission with "Safeshift" system- HoG steering with moving steering wheel. - HICAS 4 wheel steering can be turned on or off using a gear in the cabin- Independent suspension all around- Pop up Headlights can be controlled using a gear in the cabin- Opening hood, trunk and doors One of my goals with this MOC was that every bodypanel of the real car could be built in a different color. My blue+White version has all the spice Type X bits in white color, as it is an earlier 180SX that has been facelifted by the Owner to look like a type X. This was often done back when the facelift came out, because the Panels were easy to swap and not that expensive. That's why you see so many 180SX drift cars with mismatched bodypanels: swapping a "new" panel from the scrapyard is was was easy and cheap. My use of a lot of system Bricks combined with a lot of details caused a part count of close to 4200 bricks Of course I used Sariel's model scaler once again: http://scaler.sariel.pl/ The transmission and HICAS 4 wheels steering can be seen from below The rollcage provides a very rigid body, you can pick the car up by the roof no problem :) Because GoBricks had all the bricks I needed in flat silver I decided to make all the Engine, Piping, exhaust and the Rollcage in flat silver color. Why not? Due to the many color change requests I recieved for my R32 I made Instructions for 4 different colorscemes this time, and the Black+Orange version can even be built with LEGO only! Find more Renders of all 4 Versions here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Gray_Gear/gray-gears-nissan-180sx-type-x/finished-moc Headlights can either use trans clear 2x4 Tile, or Print/Sticker on black 2x4 tile. You'll get the image for the prints with the instructions on Rebrickable. I hope you enjoy my MOC, and I am looking forward to your comments Best regards, Gray Gear Below you can find some more Pictures.
  9. Here's my replication of the Ferrari Daytona SP3 made with the 42125 parts. Not perfect shaping, but the best panel configuration, to my mind. Coming with the free instruction Features: - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk- Independent suspension- Fake engine- Working steering wheel Video (including instruction): More images: Rebrickable page: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-108295/paave/ferrari-daytona-sp3
  10. _TLG_

    [MOC] Porsche 906

    Hello Porsche and Speed Champions fans, Porsche 906 aka Carrera 6 is a street-legal racing car from Porsche. It was announced in January 1966 and 50 examples were subsequently produced, thus meeting the homologation requirements of the FIA's new Group 4 Sports Car category to the number. The type would also compete in modified form in the Group 6 Sports Prototype class. For the year of the car's debut in 1966, it achieved numerous victories. The main inspiration came from a plastic toy car which I received as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-106735/_TLG_/porsche-906 It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only a standard vehicle registration plate sticker is used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic front, the side view mirrors, the side air intakes etc. . Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic headlight, lots of solutions were tested before the final one. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use a helmet or small hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Porsche 906 - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr Porsche 906 - Instructions 8 by László Torma, on Flickr
  11. Link to the instructions : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-106519/Sebulba56/8880-remastered/#details Hey ! Today I present you my entry for the TC20 contest. This is a 2020's version of the 90's 8880 supercar. Here are some pictures to begin with : About the design, I tried to keep the original proportions, angles and shapes as much as possible. I think I managed to keep the main look of the car. I of course reproduced the classic details of the car like the yellow lines, the white interior, the rear spoiler. My idea with this model was to use in the best way all the new elements that the studless era has brought. Those new elements of course include the panels, that I used to create a plainer bodywork. It also allowed to include new elements that missed to the original model, the best example is the opening doors. On the side of the functions, I created a whole new chassis and managed to keep all the original functions. I struggled to make the 4x4x4 configurations. But I made some changes in the original organization of the chassis. I move the HOG to the front. This allowed me to move the fake engine just before the rear axle, which make a rear central configuration, more realistic. The gearbox still has 4 speed but is no longer manual, it is now sequential with flapping paddles under the steering wheel. The sequential system has a limiter that stop the paddles if you want to move between 4th an 1st or between 1st and 4th. On the top of that, the pop up headlights use a worm to keep position, followed by a few connecting rods. The fold in perfectly. All the functions work well, the 4 speeds don't crack, the wheels don't touch the mudguards and everything folds in and out perfectly. On the following pictures you can see the rear axle and the fake engine : Here is the front axle with the headlight folded in and out : Here are the two sides of the interior where you can see the paddles and the limiter : Here you can see a part the underside of the car, precisely under the fake engine. There is the central differential, a part of the gear box, and the rear of the steering system : To finish here are some more pictures of the exterior : To conclude I really enjoyed making this MOC and I hope it will please you !
  12. Whats up everybody, hope y'all are doing well. I would like you to meet this little Godzilla of mine This car was built with the car scene in "Wangan Midnight" in mind: Modified cars steetracing on the Wangan Highway, where everything is about top speed. The car's engine has been converted to a bigger single turbo for better top speed and improved cooling, a vented hood and bigger intercooler setup for improved cooling, bucketseats and a weld-in rollcage. And of course the little lip on the trunk and spoiler and a massive flamespitting cannon exhaust pipe. Obviously I used quite a few Non-LEGO pieces here and there to achieve the desired look. Features: working RB26DETT fake engine (the second "T" should be removed tho because this car has a single turbo conversion) 6speed AWD manual transmission with "Safeshift" system HoG steering with moving steering wheel Independent suspension all around Opening hood and trunk Opening doors with locking mechanism Check out Sariels awesome Model Scaler tool, it helped me a ton once again: http://scaler.sariel.pl/ Specs: scale: 1:8 length: 56 cm width: 24 cm height:16 cm Weight: 2.8kg Piece count: estimated 2500-3500 What everybody wants to see in this forum: I tried to keep as much of the transmission visible from below as possible. I know this pic doesn't do the engine bay justice, but its all I have now. The body is amazingly rigid thanks to the functional weld-in rollcage. And a nice group pic with my 2 previous projects: A few more pics: I hope you enjoyed reading this, leave your thoughts in the comments below ;) Gray Gear
  13. _TLG_

    [MOC] Ferrari F40

    Hello Ferrari and Speed Champions fans, the Ferrari F40 (tipo F120) is a mid-engine, rear-wheel drive sports car engineered by Nicola Materazzi with styling by Pininfarina. It was built from 1987 to 1992, with the LM and GTE race car versions continuing production until 1994 and 1996 respectively. As the successor to the 288 GTO (also engineered by Materazzi), it was designed to celebrate Ferrari's 40th anniversary and was the last Ferrari automobile personally approved by Enzo Ferrari. At the time it was Ferrari's fastest, most powerful, and most expensive car for sale. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-99799/_TLG_/ferrari-f40 https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/ferrari-f40-building-instructions/ It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only Ferrari logo stickers are used. (If you preferred a better shaping instead of a real rear side grill, then 2pcs of parts 61409 could replaced by 2pcs of tiles and some additional stickers, see the picture 3.) My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic front, hood , side and rear intakes, the narrow black line on the front and sides, the front turn signals, the side view mirrors etc... Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate and the rear spoiler, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use small or middle sized hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Ferrari F40 - instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 8 by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari F40 - instructions 9 by László Torma, on Flickr
  14. Part of what got me into LEGO Technic years ago was an interest in designing a MOC of Lamborghini's original Aventador, the LP700-4. After a lot of procrastination, I've finally started on it. I'm not 100% happy with the chassis and I put compromises in so that I could test the fit and scale of various components. This will be a 1:10 scale model and it's my intention to implement a modified version of the gearbox from the Pimp my Lamborghini Project (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-46782/jb70/42115-pimp-up-my-lamborghini/#details). I also intend on implementing some form of pushrod suspension for the front + back wheels and the original air brake system. There are a lot of things I like about the current gearbox, but there are significant space limitations I need to take into account. The gearbox may need to be redesigned but right now it fits nicely in the chassis. I'm currently having a challenge implementing the DNR and gear shifters in the small space. I'm very happy with the rear suspension as it is compact, to-scale, and captures a lot of the aspects of the Aventador's pushrod-style suspension. I've designed it to have more travel than a supercar normally would because I prefer it that way for Technic models. The front suspension is a mess of compromises to keep height down since at this scale I have 1 or 2 studs more at most before I hit the hood. Here there are many more challenges before I'd consider it done. I haven't found a 100% perfect solution yet, but I have managed to maintain my height limit by expanding laterally. I'm having trouble designing a steering rack with a good geometry, but the current version is adequate for now. The mechanism is very similar to the rear suspension, only it has been flattened and widened to accommodate steering and front wheel drive. I might be tempted to raise the height by a stud, but I'd have to begin on front fenders to see what the height limit will be. Steering is wonky but adequate for now.
  15. Ferrari F40The most iconic supercar from the edgy eighties. The last hardcore beast signed off on by Enzo. The absolutely definitive Ferrari. The legendFunctions- Working steering wheel- 5+R dogleg gearbox- Fake V8 working engine- Independent double wishbone suspension at all 4 wheels- Openable doors, front and rear clamshell- Manually operated pop-up headlights Design and InspirationThis creation is inspired by the fantastic work of @jorgeopesi from 7-8 years ago, reborn with contemporary Lego Technic pieces. I kept the gear shift mechanism of the original, and changed the gearbox to a modified version of @Rudivdk's 5+R manual transmission. Some exterior solutions also take reference from jorge's version, but everything else from steering, suspension setup to engine, body panels etc are my own designs. It's not a mod by any means, but hopefully a worthy remake. With the evolution of LEGO parts palette over the years, I have also managed to add more details to the model, such as: - cooling slots under the rear spoiler - exhaust manifold and a see-through rear grille - detailed interior and more representative racing bucket seats - detailed engine bay with all the bells and whistles (intercoolers, airboxes, etc) - as well as, the iconic line that runs across the entire car - also worth mentioning is the 3-piece rod hidden in the rear bumper that supports the rear clamshell when it's opened. Construction The car was originally built with parts from set 8145, 8070, and additional parts from my parts bin. However, 2x 42125 is also a great base, which provides 70% of the parts. The missing 30% is listed here. When making instructions, I have also tried to substitute expensive parts such as Red 14L soft axles, or Red 1x6 thin liftarms with more affordable solutions. The wheels used in the instruction are also from set 42125 to save cost, but if you want to use standard technic 56mm D wheels - part 15038, just need to use 7L liftarms instead of 6L as the rear wishbones. These wheels will stick out a bit and provide a slight rake, giving the car a more aggressive look. The wheels used in photos are third party/non-lego parts. They are great (provide a good offset between the front and rear wheel covers, making the rear wheels look "deeper") but perhaps not for the purists. You can send me a private message if you want to know where I get those wheels from, but note that I'm in no way affiliated with the seller. Neither can I guarantee the quality of the product nor seller's trustworthiness, so tread at your own risk. Instruction hereThe instructions booklet is 666-page long and contains 828 steps (talk about "Manifest" if you watch that show :D). You will find 11 modules and 10 assembly stages in between to combine the modules to form the final model. You can follow the instructions in the chronological order of the pages, or skip around, build all the modules first (in whichever order you like) and then follow the assembly steps, just like how real cars are built in the factory. Either way should bring you a enjoyable building experience. Thank you for reading this far. I hope you enjoy the write-up. Look forward to hearing your thoughts More pics here (bricksafe) Sneak peeks of my upcoming creations
  16. Hello Big Lebowski, Corvette and Speed Champions fans, do you remember the hilarious The Big Lebowski scene? Walter Sobchak (Dude's best friend) destroys a brand new, red Chevrolet Corvette C4 (1985) with a crowbar. This car, colloquially known as the 'Vette, is a two-door, two-passenger sports car manufactured and marketed by Chevrolet across more than 60 years of production and eight design generations. The fourth-generation was the first complete redesign of the Corvette since 1963 and it is known for its sleek look. It was produced from 1983 to 1996. An other inspiration came from one of my favorite Matchbox as a child, and that color scheme will be built soon too :). This car could be a nice addition to the set 76903 "Chevrolet Corvette C8.R Race Car and 1968 Chevrolet Corvette". A-Team color scheme is possible too :). Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-80276/_TLG_/corvette-c4-big-lebowski/ https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/corvette-c4-big-lebowski/ It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer to minimize the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore this model include only one standard Lego sticker. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the pop-up headlights (the model can be built either with opened or closed headlights), the black stripes on the sides, the gray bottom part, the glass hatchback, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. (The Walter Sobchak minifigure has a custom torso and head, similar ones are available in some webshops. Its other body parts and the crowbar are standard parts.) Corvette C4 - Instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr Corvette C4 - Instructions 07 by László Torma, on Flickr
  17. Hi there everybody, since some of you asked for more WIP topics in the "Decreasing number of MOCs" topic, I thought I would take you along with my latest project, hopefully from start to finish. I wanted to build a drift car, and what other car ycould that be than the Nissan Silvia? deciding between S13, S14 and S15 was pretty easy, since pop up headlights are awesome. So I went for the most suitable model, the 180SX Type X. A quick search on google brought up this Blueprint. Not perfect, but good enough. Since this is a car with the classic FR layout I took the 6-speed manual transmission from my Nissan R32 GTR MOC and removed the AWD. I'ts running very smooth. After the pop-up headlights were completed I started modelling the front bumper. This bumper is really difficult, all the proportions are hard to recreate from bricks. I tried it like this, and while it is pretty accurate these stacked plates dont look very nice. Often it is better to choose the less accurate but better looking solution, so that's what I'll try next. I would love if someone could suggest a solution for the front lip that wraps all around the bottom of the bumper. It is 1.7 studs high and the angle does not want to match any solution I come up with. I know this does not look like much, but thats what happens when you look at the early stages of a MOC. I hope you enjoyed this, I'll try to keep you updated on my progress. Gray Gear
  18. Finished MOC at rebrickable.com for both AWD and RWD. My employment can often be intense during the fall, and this past fall was no exception. After an intense period, I turned to LEGO to rest well over the holidays. I wanted to start a comprehensive project during this time to let my mind wander down a creative outlet. I seem to cycle through tractors, cars, and Unimogs, so this time I was ready to try another car. I am a proponent of the sports sedan, in life and in builds, so that was an easy decision. It has been some time since I have built a 1:10 car, and since then the new 42110 wheels are now available. This would be a center feature of the build to see if I could take advantage of the new offset in both suspension and steering. I hope the blue sports sedan will look somewhat sporty, but not like the current BMW faux sporty. When I build I always set the dimensions first, based on the wanted features. The car will be 50-52 studs long with a 33 stud wheelbase. Body width is 23 studs, with a fender width of 25 at the front and 27 studs at the rear. "System Builds" have become a recent theme of my builds in that a center build can easily accommodate changes or additions easily. I wanted this to be the central theme of the sedan; more than a modular build the system will allow for flexibility and interchangeability. Thus, there are two categories of features to the sedan. System Modules Transmission/Rear Suspension Front Suspension/Steering Engines Floorpan Unibody Seats Doors/Hood/Trunk Features (Options) Independent Suspension Steering: HOG/Wheel Working Fake Motor (V8, I6, F6, Hybrid) Working Transmission (4S Manual, 4S Sequential) (RWD/AWD) Removable Body Seating for Four Opening Hood, Trunk, Doors After setting some hard points, I had a general idea. I had hoped that I could have a front suspension module and a rear suspension module, but already at the above stage, it was becoming clear that separating the transmission from the rear suspension would result in too many structural compromises. Above you can see the general idea for the front suspension "bathtub" that will connect to the rear suspension/transmission module. The engine will drop in, and the lock in between the two modules. The HOG is placed above the dashboard with steering controls traveling under the engine. This bathtub will hold a V-8, an I-4, and an I-6. I very much want to have the I-6 engine be part of the final build, but it is causing a lot of problems. It's just soooooo long. In fact it and the supporting structure come within 2 studs of the front of the car. I may have to go all Audi, and change it to a I-5 which may be just the right amount of weird. Above you can see, generally, how it will come together. This version includes the sequential transmission module, and the AWD front module. The AWD module is the hybrid version. This "bathtub" is locked in that the engine is chosen for you: you get the Flat 6 engine with two fake electric motors, one for each side of the front axle, that function as an electric assist. More is coming... Next I'll work on the structural floorpan, and a unibody that will drop on to all modules and give additional structural support. My builds are taking too long these days, so I am going to put a due day of May 22, 2021 for this project. Maybe that will incentivize it's timely completion.
  19. Hello Corvette and Speed Champions fans, the Chevrolet Corvette C4 car, colloquially known as the 'Vette, is a two-door, two-passenger sports car manufactured and marketed by Chevrolet across more than 60 years of production and eight design generations. The fourth-generation was the first complete redesign of the Corvette since 1963 and it is known for its sleek look. It was produced from 1983 to 1996. The model was inspired by one of my favorite Matchbox as a child, the color scheme was inspired by cyberpunk and destopian movies. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-85021/_TLG_/corvette-c4-skull-edition It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer to minimize the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore this model include only one standard Lego vehicle registration plate sticker. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the hood decoration, the gray bottom part, the glass hatchback, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 01 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 02 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 03 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 04 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 05 by László Torma, on Flickr Vette C4, Skull e. - Instructions 06 by László Torma, on Flickr
  20. In 2017 the AMG company is celebrating its 50th jubilee - congratulations on this occasion! Now here is my tribute, although it wasn´t the main intention to build for that purpose. Back in 2015 we´ve had a fun project, the BMW M4 DTM which was echoed by fellows around here far more than I expected and it opened many opportunities for cooperation with other specialists to round up the MOC. Together with Lipko´s Audi RS5 DTM a Mercedes still was missing in the line-up of some collectors though. One of them, our dear EB fellow filus followed the idea strongly and thanks to his accompaniment we elaborated the AMG C63 DTM racecar of the 2015 season. The whole project turned out to generate more fun (and challenges) as assumed. To make everything more interesting, a lot more time has been invested than planned first and more diversity was created resulting in 2 different chassis – manual and PF. On top 2 different exchangeable liveries. The quality of the model was on priority and can be considered as far better than the quality of e.g. the BMW M4 DTM. Parts rarely fall off when the car meets bumps and walls. You can even lift the car by the roof without damaging anything. Testing both models with kids of all ages between 2 and 10 years showed some robustness and reliability above average. Thanks to all participants involved in the process! Custom stickers were provided by Jaap (Jaap Technic) again, who did a fabulous job, and these really made up the icing on the cake. Thorsten Spelz produced extraordinary detailed separate instructions for both chassis and both liveries which allows to choose the desired individual setup and color scheme. Sorry in advance that these can´t be offered for free, because too many careful efforts, costly parts and countless hours of work have gone into the project. Manual chassis: Most of the development has gone into the manual chassis. I had to try it once and I´m glad I managed to make a “simple” but fool proof shifting mechanism which relies on shock springs only. No rubber bands used and the shifting parts itself retract by gravity only (which doesn´t allow 10 shifts per second though, who cares). Especially the beautiful engine sound is a nice feature – btw it´s also a kind of gear indicator – after some time playing you can distinguish the actual selected gear by the different sound and resistance while pushing the car. A white 24-teeth gear has been installed between differential and gearbox, preventing gears from damage when pushed too hard – a bit similar to the 42056 Porsche setup ;-). - dimensions in studs (L/W): 61/25 - independent wheel suspension - 4 – speed gearbox - 2 manual shifters (up and down) and steering in comfortable position above the rear axle - working steering wheel - mini fake V8 engine RC chassis: Nothing special and no new big achievements here probably. Anyway I´m very satisfied how good all together works. The XL motor geared down 3:1 works flawlessly together with the L motor geared down by 5:3 ratio – absolutely no grinding at the differential between both motors which is another good indicator of efficiency. As you can see in the video, the cars´ speed is reasonable for indoor and is almost the same compared to the BMW (stronger) equipment. Comparison here: BMW is driven by 2 XL motors; gear reduction 3:1. - dimensions in studs (L/W): 61/25 - independent wheel suspension - remote driving and steering - LED lights - PF equipment: 1 XL motor + 1 L motor for drive, 1 servo motor for steering, 1 pole reverser, 3 LED pairs (2 front, 1 rear), 1 extension wire, 1 battery, 1 IR V2 receiver, 1 IR remote - SBrick compatible (replaces receiver, remote and pole reverser) Bodywork dimensions in studs: length 61 studs (without rear spoiler); width 25 studs (without mirrors); height 15,5 studs - openable doors - easily removable rear spoiler and engine hood - custom stickers corresponding the looks of the real cars - roll cage under the roof - Technic panels count: 51 “Silberpfeil” livery - #6 Robert Wickens The new orange parts from the 42056 set allowed replicating the distinguished color scheme of this nice livery. I like especially that the round shaped roof could be made using the 13x3 bowed panels. Unfortunately Silver beams and panels are not really available, so these parts have been made in white. The stickers with the particular energy tin make it very special IMO. “AMG” livery - #3 Paul di Resta The white/black color combo may seem nothing spectacular nowadays, but with the slight red accents and the stickers in particular it makes an equal counterpart to the other variant. The roof couldn´t be built the same way and its shape turned out a bit different, unfortunately the new 13x3 bowed panels, to be released in 2H in black color, were too far on the horizon during the design process. Anyway the overall parts availability is great and I guess this version will be the preferred option for most who want to rebuild it. And here the mandatory videos: More pictures can be seen at my bricksafe. Instructions and stickers are available. Enjoy and have fun !
  21. Hello Lamborghini and Speed Champions fans, The Lamborghini Countach 2021: the supercar is reborn 50 years after the 1970s original. It is futuristic while also paying homage to the legendary 1971 design. The engine, a 12-cylinder hybrid with a staggering 769bhp, growls in a way only a 12 cylinder can do, while an electric motor adds another 34bhp to the output: a glimpse into the future of hybrid and fully electric Lamborghinis. Building instructions are available on the following link: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-93056/_TLG_/lamborghini-countach-2021 ( 20% off coupon on the first week: COUNTACH-FIRSTWEEK :) ) It is a studless model in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I have minimized the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, therefore only two ones are used: the Lamborghini logo and a solid black one for the narrow front grill. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. I wanted to build the model as accurate as possible in this small scale, therefore it contains lots of details: for example the side grills, the front ligths, the front grills, the side view mirrors, the exhaust details etc... Maybe the most challenging one was the emblematic polygonal side opening. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for one minifigure. I suggest to use small or middle sized hair. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Countach 2021 - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Countach 2021 - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Countach 2021 - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Countach 2021 - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Countach 2021 - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Countach 2021 - Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Countach 2021 - Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr
  22. I have to do the video, edit and take some pics more but I think there won´t be more big changes . This is the manual one and I will do the LDD instructions for it, I think it will be for free, the RC one was for me for fight with the little space . The car is completely modular, trunk, bonnet, doors, back fender, roof, sides of the bodywork, gearbox, fake engine, rear axle, seats and chassis with the front axle. It has independent suspension with functional doors, trunk, bonnet and retractable headlights, 5 speed and reverse gearbox (Tyler Reid style) and a V8 fake engine. This is an appetizer as my style, I will update with new information. I hope you like.
  23. I present you the most accurate, functional and highest performing supercar I've ever made, the BuWizz GTA Spano: The main goal behind this scale version was to be as faithful to the design and configuration of the real GTA Spano as possible while maintaining a high degree of performance and functionality. This 1:8 scale model car has been designed, developed and manufactured in close collaboration with Spania GTA and has a total of 3,880 LEGO pieces, ten BuWizz Motors for propulsion, five motors for other functions and five BuWizz 3.0 Pro controllers, which allow it to reach a maximum speed of 36.5 km/h, a new world record for such a heavy and accurate model. It features the following functions: 10 BuWizz motors used for the rear wheel drive with vector control 1 PU L motor used for steering and rotating the steering wheel 1 PU M motor used to lift and tilt the rear spoiler 1 PU M motor used for the fake V10 engine 2 PU M motors used to open the doors Full independent suspension on all wheels Opening hood, engine cover and the rear trunk Today I’m going to go a bit deeper into the design process and technical details of the model. First in order to achieve the required level of realism I imported the manufacturer’s 3D file of the car's body in LDD and used it as a reference, here in blue: As mentioned before, the power is supplied by 10 BuWizz motors which use the outer outputs geared up using 40 and 24 tooth gears giving a 1.67x gear ratio on the rear drive wheels. Without load, the wheels can spin with up to 50 km/h. Power is transmitted to the rear drive wheels using the new heavy duty CV joints. To support so many motors and BuWizz bricks, the rear axle was designed to support a weight of over 2,5 kilograms. Here the shape of the BuWizz motors was of a high advantage, since you can easily stack them on the same drive axle. As you can see on the following image, the rear axle is one of the densest; most interconnected and complicated parts of the whole car. The front axle is designed to feature a positive caster angle, which gives the model additional stability when driving at high speeds. The steering uses double steering links in order to reduce the play of the system. A single PU L motor steers the wheels and the steering wheel. Along with the 3D model of the exterior, I also used the 3D model of the interior to design…well, the interior. I took great care to model the seats so they are in proper scale and very detailed using a combination of studless and studded bricks. For highly accurate details, custom stickers were used for the gauges, central console and of course the logo: As with the interior, the engine bay also uses a combination of studded and studless parts in order to match the real one as close as possible. I also used tiles in Light Bright Orange color to represent the space grade gold foil heat shield of the real car: The wheels are custom elements which I personally designed and 3D printed. A big challenge was to design them in a way to be accurate to the original source, yet strong enough to support this 4+ kg model at speeds over 35 km/h. With all the mechanical and functional parts completed, it was time to create an accurate representation of the bodywork. As mentioned before, using the 3D CAD model came really handy in capturing all the organic shapes and curves of the original model. Here are some highlights: Analog to the real car, this representation also features a lot of opening surfaces. The doors and the rear spoiler are motorized while the front boot, rear engine cover and the rear trunk can be opened manually: To summarize, the whole project took some 6 months to complete from receiving the 3D files to the speed-breaking final version of the model. For me, this was a really nice learning experience and I’m proud to say it’s one of the best models I’ve designed so far. If you are interested to know more about not just the model, but also the cooperation between BuWizz and Spania GTA, please check the following video:
  24. Hello Magnum, Ferrari and Speed Champions fans, this targa topped 1984 Ferrari 308GTSi Quattrovalvole (pictures 1 and 6) was made famous by the television series Magnum, p.i. in which the series' lead, Thomas Magnum (Tom Selleck) drove the car around Oahu for eight seasons while on his investigations, from 1980 to 1988. Several 308 GTS cars were used, a new one for each season, most being auctioned off after filming and all with the license plate ROBIN 1. The berlinetta version of this model is called Ferrari 308GTB Quattrovalvole (pictures 2-5 and 7-8). The design inspiration of this model came from a Ferrari 308 Matchbox which I received as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-64110/_TLG_/magnum-pi-ferrari-308-gts-gtb-quattrovalvole/#details or https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/instructions-moc-magnum-p-i-ferrari-308-gts-gtb-quattrovalvole/ They are a studless builds in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a sleek models which are as accurate as possible in this small scale. Only two stickers are used per model: the rectangular Ferrari logo, and the vehicle registration plate, to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The models contain lots of details: for example the emblematic air vents on the hood (black on GTS and red on GTB), the front bumper with the turn signal lights, the tilted front grill, the rear three quarter window with black cover, the turn signal lights on the front side, the black stripe on the sides, the side-view mirrors, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the iconic rear side with the vehicle registration plate, here there is a half stud offset. I tried to fill every unecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures. I suggest to use small hairs. Without the seats and the two interior tan tiles minifigures with bigger hairs can be used too if they are leaned back. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Magnum's car 01 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 02 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 03 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 04 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 05 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Magnum's car 06 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 07 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr Ferrari 308 GTB Q. 08 - INSTRUCTIONS by László Torma, on Flickr
  25. Hey everybody, I have finally managed to achieve the final version of my 1:10 F40. Here are some pictures to begin. For this model, I mainly focused on the design. You can find all the important elements and shapes of the F40 as The pop up headlights, the red seats, the Ferrari logos, the rear wing or the four rear red and orange headlights. For the proportions, my MOC is not 100% accurate, I prefered to take some minor liberties to have a better look in Lego. The best example is the air intakes on the sides of the car. The biggest should be more on the back but it would have result in a way more complex build and would have break the fluid lines of the car. Now let's talk about the functions : The first one is the opening of the doors an the engine cover. With this, you can see the detailing of the fake V8 engine, it was very important to me because it is a major part of the F40. I managed to reproduce the main shape of this beautiful engine. I took only one liberty with the cooling fan, I added this cause it was a real plus to the movement of the engine To make this engine work I had to get a gearbox. It is a 6 speed manual from Dgustaffson13. I put you the link to the video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJCWIx35edQ Then we have the steering, operated by the steering wheel or by a removable HOG on the front. The pop up headlights follow the same system as my modernized 8880 but with a different shape of headlight. The last function is the suspensions. It is all independent and strong enough to maintain the whole car. To finish, let's look at the modularity and the details of the build it self. The whole build can be easily taken apart. First we take of the seats, the doors, the sides panels and the rear engine cover. Then we get the front hood, the engine, the rear axle and the rear bumper. We can have a better look on the front axle the gearbox and the engine. That's it for my F40, thank you for reading me and let me finish with a last picture of the car. .