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About Slegengr

  • Birthday 02/11/1991

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Illinois, USA
  • Interests
    LEGO MOCing, LEGO collecting
    Favorite LEGO Theme: Castle

    Non-LEGO: blacksmithing, woodworking, clay sculpting, music (piano, violin, ocarina, bagpipes), pets (bearded dragons, axolotls, leopard geckos, cats, dogs), outdoors and nature, raising livestock, farming


  • Country
    Mitgardia, GoH
  • Special Tags 1

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  1. Slegengr

    [SALE] Star Wars Personal Collection

    These lots will be posted to eBay in a few days. The bonuses will not be able to be offered once posted to eBay. If there is any interest in taking advantage of the Eurobricks-exclusive bonuses, please let me know soon.
  2. Do you collect LEGO Star Wars sets and minifigures? Are you a Star Wars army builder? Do you need some Star Wars gifts for the holiday season? ...well, keep reading! After many years of collecting, I have amassed an extraneous collection of Star Wars LEGO builds and minifigures. When I was younger, I had some friends that collected Star Wars sets and minifigures, so I got into it with them and sort of kept it up through college. I really do not have much LEGO time anymore and my LEGO-related interest is in building MOCs mostly in the Castle theme, so this Star Wars collection is for sale. Available are three groups: PREQUELS: Episodes I, II, III (Group Price = $3000, includes builds and minifigures) TRILOGY: Episodes IV, V, VI (Group Price = $2000, includes builds and minifigures) CLONEWARS: Clone Wars (Group Price = $1000, includes builds and minifigures) All currency is in USD or United States Dollars Shipping to continental USA will be free. I would prefer not to ship this order internationally, but I may be willing to consider it at buyer's cost. This image is the first landing image in the album. I have a set list on Rebrickable that covers most of this, though please keep in mind that it is not as good a reference as the pictures. There also may be some items on the Rebrickable list that are not included in the sale, as there are a few sets I plan to keep that are Star Wars related. At the time of this posting, Rebrickable values this collection around $7500 for a very loose reference. The pictures in this Flickr album cover everything offered. They are titled based on the group they fall under. All picture titles starting with "123" are in group PREQUELS All picture titles starting with "456" are in group TRILOGY All picture titles starting with "CW" are in group CLONEWARS Pictures are in a specific order, with an overall group photo of builds or minifigures followed by detail photos where needed. Builds are shown first for each group (no minifigures included in these pictures), and minifigures for each group come after the builds. Many of the instruction booklets will be included, though they are not pictured. If you want to know specifically about the availability and condition of instruction booklets, please ask in a PM. I also have quite a few boxes for these sets, though not nearly all of them. These will be included for their respective sets. Parts and minifigures will be shipped packed in the boxes to save on shipping space. If you want to know about the availability and condition of boxes, again please ask in a PM. The descriptions should be fairly distinct about condition, though I can safely say that these are all in excellent condition or good used condition. All old, marred, nicked, bitten, discolored, etc. parts have been removed (except the cracked slave Leia torso...). Some of the older parts were played with, but most of this entire lot is an adult collection that has been built, disassembled, and stored. Some parts and minifigures are from Bricklink/eBay purchases, but I have verified that all parts are in excellent/good condition. Please note that I took these pictures in May of 2016 with the intent to try to sell then. Life got busy, and I never posted the lot for sale. Since then, The Star Wars collection has been stored in plastic tubs in my basement in the same area as the rest of my LEGO collection. Please send me a PM with any questions/interest. Feel free to make any requests, though I really would rather sell these lots complete rather than parted down. If we work out a sale, I will send a money request through Paypal with the order total. I will NOT accept payment as a gift or money to family to avoid the Paypal fee. To make it simple for the buyer, I will pay the Paypal fee from the amount I receive rather than increasing the total on your end. I am on the Eurobricks' Straight Shooters list through a few small deals and trades, though this is really a leap of trust to verify a sale of this magnitude. If interested, I could make this a superlot for sale through Bricklink, but BL will charge an additional fee for the sale, so the price would be higher. Bonus offers: Total discount of $500 on any 2 Groups (PREQUELS and TRILOGY = $4500, PREQUELS and CLONEWARS = $3500, TRILOGY and CLONEWARS = $2500) Total discount of $1000 on all 3 Groups (PREQUELS and TRILOGY and CLONEWARS = $5000) Extra pieces, incomplete sets, and minifigure parts will be included if buying all 3 Groups (PREQUELS and TRILOGY and CLONEWARS = $5000) If you would like to make offers, reasonable offers may be considered, though I reserve the right to deny any offer for any reason. Please be reasonable and respectful with any offers (well, really with any communication, please). Now, the overall pictures: PREQUEL: TRILOGY: CLONEWARS: Thanks and have a great day, Slegengr
  3. @MovieMocs I would recommend checking out Eurobricks' Guilds of Historica. There are many builds that include amazing forests. You may need to dig a bit, but references for Medieval techniques abound. For some quick advice, I recommend less tan. Usually, you should try to use a limited color palette of 2 or 3 colors for each portion of the terrain, such as only 2 colors for the earth and only 2 main colors in the foliage (aside from flowers or small details). Using too many colors in small scale causes a disoriented and jumbled appearance that is very distracting. I also recommend using reference pictures to ensure color and texture accuracy, as well as to determine what type of forest or any terrain you are trying to build. In your case here, the tan looks like sand from a desert or wasteland mixed with green foliage from a dense forest. These seems out of place together. Putting a palm tree in a snowy terrain would seem out of place. What I mean is to make sure the elements of your terrain and foliage make sense together. This goes for parts usage as well as color usage. Another thing to remember is that using round or wedge plates in addition to square plates gives a more natural and organic appearance. There are very few straight lines in nature. This requires a more diverse set of pieces, but investing in some round plates and wedge plates for terrain may be a very good investment. Avoid using tiles for terrain that is not meant to be completely smooth. Most terrain is rough rather than smooth.
  4. Slegengr

    Part 2530 (Cutlass) in ABS plastic?

    You are welcome. I would not have known about these until I got some from purchased collections.
  5. Slegengr

    Part 2530 (Cutlass) in ABS plastic?

    I know what you mean about this. It is a bother trying to ensure the bows are the right colors when trying to refinish inventory to sort sets. My earlier reference, though, was to a pretty rare early version in "dark brown" that does not match the modern dark brown exactly but is noticeably darker than the old brown. This leads me to believe that the weapon plastic, due to the thinner plastic and the play purpose, was different than the ABS used in bricks. The same applies to the cutlass material, which is currently much more flexible than ABS.
  6. Slegengr

    The Greatest Collectible Minifigure THANKS AND GOODBYE

    Thanks again to @Itaria No Shintaku for running this game and to all who participated in voting!
  7. Slegengr

    Part 2530 (Cutlass) in ABS plastic?

    @Jetflap I am fairly sure that the very earliest cutlasses were made of ABS, just as the early castle short swords were. The switch to a more flexible material was probably due to the blades snapping off from the handle. I have seen many of the ABS castle swords that snapped cleanly off at the handle or had very noticeable white stress marks left from a bend that was straightened. I do not think I have ever seen a sword or cutlass that is made of the newer flexible material get broken. I have a few of those cutlasses that appear to be made of ABS. They were found in some collections I bought off eBay that included parts from sets made in the early 80's. Included were some flags with stickers instead of printing, as well as a number of extra stickers. I do think these ABS cutlasses are interesting (like the very early version of the bow and quiver that are a darker brown), but I do not think they are particularly rare and valuable. Some collectors would likely value them higher than the flexible plastic versions, as the ABS version is not nearly as common as the flexible ones. Most people probably do not even notice the difference. @XBrickmonster The one advantage of the newer flexible material is that they have to be bent much worse before a permanent effect is made. Usually, the bends can be straightened without any ill effect. ABS is much more likely to break or have stress marks from even the slightest bends.
  8. Slegengr

    Book II - Mitgardia: Guild sign-up and Discussion

    @Tyndale Welcome to Mitgardia! I am looking forward to your contributions to the coolest guild!
  9. See the linked post in my earlier response. It includes a tutorial on how to deeplink from Brickshelf or Flickr so that the image shows in the Eurobricks post.
  10. @move5 Eurobricks is not an image hosting site, so your limit is very small for things like a profile picture or some small images on your profile page. You will need to make an account with a separate image hosting site and deeplink images from there to your Eurobricks posts. Flickr and Brickshelf seem to be common hosting sites for Eurobricks users. See the middle of this post for information about deeplinking from these sites:
  11. Slegengr


    @XBrickmonster I will be looking forward to seeing your cottage! P.S. When you want to tag another member here on Eurobricks, use the @ symbol as you did, but choose the username from the dropdown that appears. This will cause a notification to pop up when the user logs in.
  12. Slegengr


    @XBrickmonster To achieve a curve, just use hinges or Mixel joints to attach together spans of flat plates. The curve on the right appears to be made up of about 4 sections of plates each about 4-6 studs wide that are jointed together. Complex angles such as this are an advanced technique, but they are not too hard to achieve if you just play around with hinges, Mixel joints, and SNOT bricks. In most cases, the hinged connections or SNOT bricks are hidden on the inside so as not to affect the outside appearance. The above roof shows just how much texturing can be achieved by layering simple plates, wedges, round plates, and tiles to imitate thatching.
  13. Slegengr

    The Greatest Collectible Minifigure THANKS AND GOODBYE

    That is alright, I would not say I am handsome either. Besides, the focus in that vault picture is not your face but something else much more beautiful! You do not need to be handsome with a 6285 MISB in your hands!
  14. Slegengr

    The Greatest Collectible Minifigure THANKS AND GOODBYE

    I wonder if we will still see 70 or more votes in this round? That would be nice if all the scarecrow voters show up! @Itaria No Shintaku Thanks for all you have done putting this game together! It was a brave move to do this knowing that some members would be disappointed as their favorites dropped out of the game. It is nice to see the face behind all this work! That is quite a picture from the LEGO vault!
  15. Slegengr


    There are many different techniques for medieval roofs other than simple slope bricks (but the slope method is still tried and true though simple). Some simple ones: 1. Use plates stacked at different intervals to look like layered thatching. 2. Use tiles on intervals to look like shakes or slate 3. Use 1x2 tiles but only stick down one end completely so the other end sticks up and is not fully engaged on the studs. This represents shakes very well (and is not shown accurately in the image due to LDD). (I cannot seem to find the origination of this or an image, but @Siercon and Coral were the original designers of this technique, I believe) Some more complex techniques are achieved using minifigure hands or droid arms to represent thatching. Black flippers have been used for an interesting shake/slate appearance. Take a look at @Kai NRG's recent blog post (link on Flickr page) for more ideas: Look around in the Historic Forum and the Guilds of Historica Subforum here on Eurobricks for many more ideas. Also, just try some of your own ideas and be creative! That is what the LEGO ideal is about.