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Everything posted by Slegengr

  1. Slegengr

    [MOC] Repeating Rifles

    @evancelt Though both look pretty good, I also prefer the sand blue with black boots. Even more-so than medium-blue, I think sand blue is more historically accurate to U.S. Wild-West/Civil War Union uniforms. (The coats should be more dark/navy blue, too, though the medium blue works well enough). One picture for reference: As I understand, nail-polish remover is typically acetone-based, and I believe acetone is an ABS solvent sometimes used to smooth ABS 3D-printed parts since it dissolves the surface bumps and irregularities when used as a weak vapor bath. Too much acetone can definitely dissolve ABS irreparably. If you want to remove print from ABS, I have heard of using "Brasso" metal polish and have tried this method with successful results. Just apply the cleaner to the print-area you want removed and rub with a cloth or paper towel until print is removed (it usually takes a bit of time and some hard rubbing). I have not used this method much, though, since I try to be mostly purist with my LEGO collection... I have no personal experience with the eraser method that @evancelt uses to obvious success.
  2. Slegengr

    King Kahuka's mouth

    This is quite the thread! I always considered the round hole to be the mouth, but definitely saw the oversized smile as well. @kurigan's representation is both humorous and historically plausible! Maybe the King Kahuka mask was based around Iroquois masks rather than or as well as masks from the Pacific islands or other natives? There are also plenty of historical references for wooden masks from Africa, though they are both somewhat distinct in style and not as fitting for the original "Pirate" reference. (This still does not conclusively answer the question of King Kahuka's mask mouth... now I am also confused whether it is "Kahuka" or "Kahuna", though maybe the answer to this question depends on the region/nation/language where released?) Examples of a couple Iroquois masks somewhat similar to Kahuka's (note 1st has large (tongue-out?) grin, 2nd has round mouth to further confuse the original question):
  3. Slegengr

    [MOC] Heddal Stave Church

    Wow, @Lasse! This is a wonderful and accurate model! I really like the architecture of the referenced structure and you did an excellent job of rendering it in brick form. The windows and roofing techniques are very nice. As mentioned above by others, the use of 1x1 cone bricks works very well for representing the actual structure walls. Did you consider or try the same cone-stack technique but with the alternating cone-stacks inverted to allow for a tighter mesh? (see reference photo below) P.S. I think your model would look even better if you included the low stone wall and the graveyard around the church building.
  4. Slegengr

    Best place to buy legos in bulk?

    I second the above suggestions for BrickLink, Brick Owl, and (...and that "legos" is technically incorrect ) It seems like recently I have found pretty good availability and pricing on LEGO Bricks & Pieces (B&P) especially since The LEGO Group (TLG) offers VIP points and free promotional sets at certain price points. Due to recent markets and seeming surge in demand, second-hand prices have climbed in the last year or so to be almost at the same price as B&P, though B&P used to be typically more expensive.
  5. Have you ever heard of BrickHawk? You can watch availability on one B&P part for free and be alerted as soon as it is in stock. This is how I was able to order certain parts that run out of stock soon after being restocked, including a flock of sheep (still awaiting completion of the order and delivery).
  6. Slegengr

    Batterie "Longues sur Mer"

    @Rheini That is a nice build with some interesting details for the scale. I like your use of facet bricks, as it makes a near-perfect match to the side-walls of the actual structure. This is one time where the notches in the angled edge of wedge or round plates/bricks to fit studs actually match the real structure as the little openings/windows in the top. For posting images to EuroBricks, you will need a separate image-hosting site/account (such as Flickr, Brickshelf, Imgur, etc.). There are tutorials for this in the Forum Help section, such as this one for Flickr.
  7. Slegengr

    [MOC] "Sweet Tooth" Cabin

    Very interesting and detailed build, @Norton74! I don't know the source material, but it is a great build! The foliage is wonderfully varied and realistic. My favorite detail is the use of broken reddish-brown pieces for the wood chips. I've been saving bits and pieces of my broken reddish-brown in case they come in useful in MOC's... this proves it! The stud shooters also make great logs with small limbs. Are the brown furs from Duplo or Scala? I think I recognize them, but don't remember for sure and can't quickly find them for sure on BrickLink... The base is also nice with varied elevations and enough details to be realistic and beautiful without being cluttered.
  8. Slegengr

    Legoland 6389

    You can find the set inventory on the following sites: Bricklink: Peeron: (instruction scans also available on this site) BRICKSET: Rebrickable: I'm not sure about a photograph of original sealed bags of pieces, though.
  9. If I understand correctly, the problem you are facing is that you have the list of stores sorted by "unique lots" which will rank the stores in order of how many of the unique parts on your list are available in that store, highest first. Notice that, in your image, the top store has 205 unique parts, while each store below descends lower. This means that the top store has 205 of the total parts on your wanted list available, but not necessarily at the lowest price. The optimization you are trying to achieve has to balance a compromise between wanting to order the most parts in the fewest stores versus the lowest price per piece but with more stores/different orders. I am not sure the software can decide this for you. Example: Assume your wanted list has 10 parts. Also assume a store has all 10 parts available at $1 per part with shipping of $10 for order total of $20. Now assume that 10 stores each have only 1 part from your list, all at $0.50 each but shipping is $2 per order. This would give a total of $5 for parts but $20 for shipping, so $25 total, which is worse than the first case. The ideal is usually somewhere in between based on your own decisions. The way I usually use my wanted list is to search for some of the most important/costly/rare/etc. parts first, find a store with lower price, then search the store for my wanted list. This usually allows me to work through my list based on the key items while filling in the more common elements over a few orders to find a compromise between cost per part and total number of orders to balance into a more optimum total cost. ...You will also get better results by adding maximum prices acceptable in your wanted list and excluding stores over the maximum price. This will cut out the sellers with ridiculously high prices on common items.
  10. Slegengr

    [MOC] Robo Raptor Xtreme (LEGO Ideas Space Contest)

    @NickLafreniere Interesting build with very recognizable source material for 90's kids! I think I understand your point and generally agree with it, but I do not agree on the examples given here as representing the same point. In my opinion, the "USS Cardboard" has not become popular because it is similar to the rocket ride, but rather because it plays towards the nostalgia of the freedom of childhood and imagination that is recognizable and felt by many people. The concepts of making rocket ships and helmets out of cardboard and common household items is familiar to those of us who had an imaginative childhood either from before technology took over or by having restricted technology access. (Not to mention that the "Space" theme in general is popular right now due to real-life events centered around space exploration) Personally, the "USS Cardboard" would get my vote due to the connections I make to my own childhood, while that rocket ride offers nothing of interest for me. Whether or not the "USS Cardboard" was made due to similarities to the rocket ride in hopes of gaining the same crowd is not obvious to me... I see no connection of significance between the fisherman shop and the other three recent releases you mentioned, other than that all 4 of these sets appeal to me significantly for some similar and some different reasons. The fact that buildings are "ramshackle" is way to broad a generalization for me to think these ideas were submitted due to influence from the previous set directly. Most of my appeal of the fisherman shop draws from interest in fishing and wharfs/seaside/sailing tropes as well as an "I Spy" book I remember when I was young (I can't explain why I love the concept of these books in much the same way I love building with LEGO pieces, maybe creative parts usage and miniature model building?). The appeal for the tree house is different, since it draws from my interest in woodlands, outdoors, camping, living in a tree like the Swiss Family Robinson, and even from my childhood passion for the LEGO Forestmen theme. For the Barracuda Bay, my interest is in the connection to the LEGO Pirates theme nostalgia, pirate tropes, and actual history of the time period as well as connections to ships and sailing, though in a very different old-fashioned way than the fisherman shop. The Blacksmith again draws from different interests such as the connection to the LEGO Castle theme from childhood, wattle-and-daub half-timbered architecture, Medieval architecture and time period in general, specific connection to my beloved Black Falcons faction, real-life interest and (limited) experience in smithing steel, and many others. Though I personally don't like how much the ramshackle look is limited in the actual sets from the original submissions, I suspect most of this is due to making them stable playsets (albeit with some complicated building techniques - still playset-stable) for a general audience. When I build MOCs, I use ramshackle techniques in old structures that would definitely not be play-stable for a set to be released for anyone to build. I think that TLG limits away from building techniques that are tedious enough to annoy the general population (in the age bracket recommended). I have certainly seen many new submissions that are very similar to previous accepted submissions shortly after they are announced or produced for sale, which is what I think you are noting. This annoys me as well, since it just seems so ridiculous and silly to even attempt to put through an idea through the Ideas platform that LEGO has already produced. This also applies to ideas that relate to what LEGO already has licenses or themes established, such as Star Wars (is there really an Ideas submission in this theme that is something TLG would not already consider if it is worth producing under the theme?). I know this can seem contradictory when I am in full support of sets such as Barracuda Bay and the Blacksmith, but the difference is that I see these as support of the nostalgia of LEGO's classic themes as well as the support for themes that TLG does not seem to consider worth producing right now. I also draw distinctions not by theme as much as specific builds. Each Ideas submission should offer something that makes it unique from all previous sets, in my opinion. Now, I also see similarities in the other submissions by the creator of the fisherman shop. Though I supported the fisherman shop, I am much less likely to support the other submissions in the concept that they could be future Ideas sets. I may have supported some others as well, but simply to show TLG that there is interest in this concept in hopes that there may be some extensions of the city theme to include more wharfs or seaports or more creator expert sets in a similar vein. When it comes to Ideas sets specifically, I would rather see new and unique ideas that are different themes than previous produced Ideas sets. ...oh, and: ...I very much agree with this statement, though I also understand that this is due to my specific interests.
  11. Slegengr

    Iron Harvest - PZM-7 "Smialy"

    It is just the type of game that my family enjoys immensely! The basic functions are collecting resources to purchase upgrades while preparing for encounters (battles). Each player has decisions on specialized focus or classes that are somewhat directed by individual advantages and disadvantages while also having some random environmental elements to make the strategies more interesting and challenging. Even though it is a game that takes 2-3 hours to play, it is one of our top favorites now. There are a lot of small parts and a fair amount of setup before beginning the game. My oldest brother (who purchased the game) bought the upgraded tokens made of metal rather than plastic, and his wife's brother painted them with rather realistic details which just makes the game even more enjoyable. My favorite part about the game is the steam/diesel-punk theme of the 1920+ world and the concept art. If you are building MOCs like this, you are nearly sure to enjoy the game if you have interest in strategy board games.
  12. Slegengr

    Iron Harvest - PZM-7 "Smialy"

    Such a detailed MOC and instantly recognizable from the source material! Ever since playing the board game "Scythe" with my family, I was very drawn in and interested in the concept art and planned some day to make some MOCs of it myself. The mill looks very nice with realistic texturing. Excellent job on the landscaping, and the cut-away effect really adds a lot to this build. I like that technique with the hands for the streamers by the shrine. ...and, of course, the walker is such a wonderful element of the build and the most recognizable element from the art reference! The greebling and details work very well.
  13. Slegengr

    Japanese style roof technique help

    Here is one method using locking teeth hinge plates as @MAB mentioned, mocked up in Studio. If I can find how to share the file (.io), I will. The same is used on the other sides, but the plates are extended above the corners to the top peak. You will have to play around with attachment hinge styles and locations (I used hinge bricks shown in blue, but these do not work perfectly if I try to add the other sides of the roof) until you get the corner to fit together between the different sides.
  14. Slegengr

    [MOC] marching through teutoburger wald

    This is an excellent scene with so many of the Roman minifigures! I like that cavalry shield piece, and may have to look it up for myself. One addition I have made to my Roman minifigures to make them more realistic is to change out the arms for arms with red short sleeves. I think it makes them look a lot better than the stock bare yellow option.
  15. Slegengr

    [MOC] Thin Blue Line

    @evancelt You are building a nice army. Though I personally tend to be purist, I can see some of the appeal of the custom shakos and the inclusion of bayonets. @Ayrlego In my opinion, probably the best piece that TLG has made for a ramrod is this wand. Due to limitations on size, there may never be a piece made that is more accurate and can be held by a minifigure (but you never know). The taper is not realistic, but it give the illusion of thinness while still having an end large enough for a minifigure to grip. Once I discovered this piece, I have been building up a stock for when I get back to work on ships some day, since I think they will also make good belaying pins.
  16. @Medzomorak You should be able to calculate and set the angle for the hinges before connecting to the plates. The complication here is that the software will only hinge one location at a time, where you would need to adjust all three together at the same time in reality. If you set the hinge connection to 60 degrees on the internal equilateral triangle before connecting the plates, you should be able to connect all three plates without a problem. The way I would do this would be to add the hinge connection to the left-most plate with the hinge in the 1X4 plate position (0 degrees hinged), set the angle of the hinge to 60 degrees for the internal equilateral triangle, copy the plate and angled hinge plates together, then paste in the remaining two groups of plate and angled hinge plates and attach them to the previous hinge connection. This will maintain the angle relation of the hinge plates set on the first group and should come out perfectly.
  17. Slegengr

    Help with identifying parts/sets!

    I just took a closer look and I have a question: Are these bricks LEGO originals? It almost looks like the studs have a different logo that is all too similar to an anchor I have seen on some old pieces similar to LEGO originals. As far as I know, LEGO bricks have had the name "LEGO" embossed on the studs for as long as TLG has produced bricks with the stud-and-tube coupling system. As far as I can find, there is no original LEGO set that used all of those pieces specifically in building a castle. The gray cones you showed are definitely not LEGO pieces. You are certainly right about the slopes being 45-degree slopes on the Weetabix Castle set.
  18. Slegengr

    Does Bricklink have this Brickowl feature?

    Yes, @gotoAndLego, there is a way to do this in BL. What you want is the "Items for Sale" list for a particular catalog item (be it a part, minifigure, set, etc.). If you want to shop for a part, go to the "Market" tab by the login button, then select "Parts" under "Browse the Catalog". Find the subcategory of the part you want (example: "Animal, Land"). Select the particular item (example: Leopard "bb0787c01pb02"). Now check that you are viewing the "Items for Sale" tab under the image of the part. This is the list that I think you are looking for. There are filters at the top that help specify the information you want, such as particular country for the store locations. The same process is followed for minifigures or whole sets using different categories under the "Market" tab. You can also speed up the search for parts by looking at inventories of sets that include the desired part.
  19. Slegengr

    Help with identifying parts/sets!

    I do not know about the light gray cones, but the other pieces you showed above could have been from the model Weetabix Castle set that LEGO released in 1970. Edit: Also, Eurobricks requires a separate photo-hosting site, such as Flickr, with images shared here using links such as the BBCode to input images right into your post. See Pandora's Flickr Tutorial for example.
  20. @Johnnycrash By the way, did you start the model in extended mode? I do not think you can open a non-extended model in extended mode. What you are describing is how it works when I try to repeat this process without using extended mode. (Maybe there is a way to export/import the model to change the mode? I don't know...) I only build using extended mode due to the freedom allotted with color changing. Generally, I use LDD as a prototype for physical builds I am planning, so I will later verify if parts are actually available in that color or I will check the markets for the part in that color before using it in a build. Extended mode is just simpler to use in my opinion, since you choose pieces and color separately rather than at the same time.
  21. Try the suggestions from SylvainLS that clarify what I am suggesting: Thanks for the clarification. It is so easy to forget the things I do by default. Also, thanks for the direct mention that "Extended Mode" is necessary. I failed to mention this since it is the only mode I use in LDD.
  22. I figured there must be more to the mirroring issue than just the door if you asked for help on that, though it is not obvious from the picture. For recoloring the group, it should work to reverse the final step as well: select the paint bucket with the color you want, then select the group of bricks you want to recolor.
  23. As far as I am aware, there is no mirror function in LDD. For your particular need, though, it should be simple, since it looks like the door just switches sides while the rest of the house is identical. ...unless there are interior details or more things that switch sides that are not visible in the shared picture. For the color change, just build one house in red, then use the selection option showing the arrow and color palate to select all red bricks. Create a group of all red bricks, then copy and past the building. Re-select your red brick group and use the paint tool to change all selected (red) bricks to green. Now you can re-select all red bricks on the pasted building and create another group. This gives you two buildings of different colors that allow for easy color change. Then, if you copy and paste a building and switch the door to the other side, you can repeat the process to have buildings of either color and either door side. To verify the method, I spent about 10 minutes to build simple houses with the ability to change color as shown in these images:
  24. Slegengr

    TLG acquires Bricklink

    I really hope they leave the second-hand market mostly as it is, but I have my doubts. What seems far more likely is that TLG has discovered (surely it did not take this long?) why they estimate only 5% of their sales going to adults: most adults spend far more on the second-hand market due to TLG focusing on children. I know as a child, between my own purchases and gifts from others, I probably had a couple thousand dollars worth of LEGO(R) purchases (no Dark Age for me). As a working adult, I have spent many times that amount, almost exclusively on the second-hand market to purchase sets I missed in my childhood as well as pieces in bulk for MOC-building that are just not available or are very expensive from TLG. Most likely, I see this as a way for LEGO to make the second-hand market expensive to improve their business profit. If the rare chance occurs that this becomes a way for TLG to sell bulk pieces for MOC builders, I may be pleasantly surprised, but this seems like a very slim chance. I know I have wanted to be able to buy certain pieces in bulk for reasonable prices, but I do not have access to the rare chances for such due to no LUG connection or unmentionable opportunities that some have had. New pieces directly from TLG would be nice, but the prices on Bricks and Pieces are quite a bit higher than those on BrickLink. It looks like it is time to make my BL purchases before changes are enacted. With 500+ orders on BL, I have done my share of supporting their business model. I also assume that eBay is quite pleased with this announcement, as they will likely see an increase in LEGO-related sales, no matter how this is handled by TLG.
  25. Slegengr

    [MOC] M-Tron Space Train

    Since this was a theme I loved as a child, I always like to see MOC's like this! Overall, I really like the design of this train. The color scheme and most of the style is very true to the classic M-Tron design. For some reason, I have always been partial to simple rail transportation systems in the LEGO Space setting! I will offer a few critiques: ---The pod design for the train engineer is an apparent reference to classic Blacktron 2, so I would prefer to see a design that more closely represents the cockpits seen on classic M-Tron ships instead. This is mostly just personal opinion, though, since I consider the removable pilot pods to be a distinguishing feature of Blacktron 2 specifically. ---As nice as I think the cars look, the design with black hinged plates for the doors on the cars will not physically work with the hinge method you used. The inside corners of the doors will collide too much to allow the doors to close when open or open when closed. Whichever way they are built, they will become locked. I do not know if this is an issue for you if you never build it with real bricks, but it is a design consideration I like to see even for digital builds that they could be built in reality. The doors might work if they are only 1-stud thick, since the tolerance of bricks may be enough to allow the doors to close with a hinge design like this. There is still interference opening or closing the doors even with doors only 1-stud thick. If you try to use the hinge tool in LDD for opening these doors, it will jump from fully closed directly to the point where the bricks no longer collide due to interference issues.