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About Raskolnikov

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  1. AT-AT MOC (plus-sized -- but not super big)

    Gosh, did you actually use the old picture instructions? If so, impressive. If you haven't see 'em already, there are free pdf instructions available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-6006/raskolnikov/plus-size-at_at/#comments There's like a 15-page topic on that somewhere--not quite sure how you found this older post instead, sorry! Haha, yes there are instructions, and they're free. See the above link. Cheers.
  2. @Christoph27 Looks great, glad you liked it. It also looks like you're in the elite group of builders who managed to have the superstructure fitted completely properly when taking your first picture :) Any plans to fill it with a crew of minifigures? Also, an optional change to the build is to remove the lowermost 1x6 tile on the "neck" of the bridge assembly. This eases the process of sliding the bridge into place, and I think the bracket studs look fine when exposed. If we ever roll out a final update it'll probably include this change.
  3. [WIP] [MOC] [LDD] AT-M6 PlusSize

    I haven't checked up on this thread in a little while, but wow that render looks really nice. Is it as durable as it looks? And how soon until solidbrix adopts this design? :)
  4. That's a great looking UCS sticker, where's that from?
  5. Honestly, I don't think so. The design you linked definitely is one of the more creative fan interpretations. There recently was a semi-official miniature for the Star Wars Armada game, which is much more conservative in its design and, like most other representations, seems to have a superstructure and hull shape that is nearly identical to an ISD. The Armada version even has four turrets per side, and I kind of liked the three-turret versions more because I thought it was an interesting way to differentiate VSDs. Oh well. Long story short, I think based on the most definitive versions of VSDs, you really just need (1) the distinctive bridge and (2) the "wings." Other ways of differentiating VSDs seem to be optional and vary by artist. I've been meaning to take more pics of my VSD mods, but for some reason I haven't gotten around to it. Anyway, here's my one pic with crappy lighting that doesn't show much detail on the bridge changes. @Christoph27 Looking good so far, you're nearly there! Books 7 and 8 are very short, although Book 7 takes some time since certain parts of the bridge are fragile. Also, if you bought the stickers, there are turbo-lift stickers on the Death Star sticker sheet that are unused. They are intended to go on the tops of the dbg cylinders visible in your image and the ones directly below them (on level 2), but we were unable to add them via the instructions.
  6. @MattVa Sounds right to me if you're using the 600m measurement for the 418. The Constrictor is sort of an amalgamation of the 418 and the Rebels Interdictor, though, which appears to be a larger ship. So it may be roughly to scale with the 10030/Aggressor as-is. Or if you want to use the 600m length, you could maybe convert a 10030/Aggressor to a Victory, which really isn't too difficult.
  7. That sounds like an attempt to repair the bottom panel, but I may be misinterpreting. Just to clarify, it's the 3x2 wedges on the rear panels (i.e., the panels placed on book 4, page 8 or page 17) that are easy to repair. Or you can even place those wedges later, after the rear panels are in position. Damage to the bottom panels, by contrast, should definitely be avoided.
  8. @humbertj Hrm, if you scroll up (edit: check page 12 of the thread), Schneeds worked through a similar issue. My recommendation is basically just to be very careful with the bottom panels--maybe hold them to try to avoid much movement or flexing--while gently pushing the rear panels into place. The rear panels will appear not to fit...keep pushing until they snap into place. It is OK to damage the rear panels during this process (i.e., lbg 2x3 wedge plates popping off), since they are relatively easy to repair once in position. The relative weakness of the section of the bottom panel that rests of above the stand also is something that I was thinking about re-designing at some point. I believe it works as-is, but you are not the only person to ask whether it would be better if it were reinforced. Please let us know how it works out. Should be mostly smooth sailing once you get past this point. And hopefully you've become a pro at the bottom panel removal/replacement process now--might help you out later on if you ever want to move the ship in the car or need to repair any serious damage.
  9. Another 6ft long SSD Executor (fully complete).

    Wonderful! Proportions and greebles look great. I want one!
  10. @Sky8880 Glad you enjoyed it! Yeah, I always enjoy seeing pictures of the completed builds for some reason, so feel free to post some pics. There's also a tab on the rebrickable page for people to post pics, if you want. And yep, I think instructions for the interdictor are probably going to be coming in the future. I'm nearly done redesigning it to be a more suitable-for-instructions model and have increased interior space. So uh, "Constrictor II" coming soon, I guess.
  11. Hrm, @Sky8880 I'd recommend watching the video once more, just in case. In addition, an unsuccessful attempt to attach a panel likely will result in some bending or loosening of parts, so flatten out the panel and tighten everything up before attempting again. Also be sure to position the pins like in the video and avoid overhanging pins. The pins and connections should line up exactly, but it may not seem that way initially because it usually takes some wiggling to fit the panel into position. That's just a result of it being a bendy, nearly-meter-long collection of plates. I haven't had any issues with visibility of the pins, so you may want to get some better lighting in your room, too. I suppose it's possible that some of the 2x2 modified plates (i.e., the pin receptacles) on the panel are out of position, as well, so double check to make sure the panels were built correctly. If you post a pic of the panels, I can try to check on that for you. Finally, I think this is something that improves with practice. My hope is that owners of the Aggressor become familiar with adding and removing all the modules, including the bottom panels, so they can repair and transport the ship easily. It's pretty much inevitable that a 27-lb Lego ship is going to need repairs at some point.
  12. It's possible that there's something amiss, and I'll double check when I get home...but I'm pretty sure the solution (as much as I dislike it) is just to force it. I remember putting a note in the instructions that the fit for those panels is "very tight"--and by that I meant that some degree of force is required to make it happen, although hopefully it was the best choice among several not-ideal alternatives. Anyway, when I connect those panels, I attach both ball joints first before moving the panel into its final position, i.e., don't start with the rear panel in contact with the bottom panels, instead start with both ball joints connected and the rear panel able to move freely up and down. Then, move the rear panel downward until you make contact with the brackets along the edge of the bottom panel. It will rest on top of them and not appear to fit. Regardless, you should be able to gently depress the rear panel until it audibly snaps into place behind the brackets, like it in your image. You want to avoid any damage to the bottom panels, but it's fine if 2x3 wedge plates fall off the rear panel (and some probably will). Once the rear panel is in position, any 2x3 wedge plates can be replaced.
  13. Let's see what we got here... Right, they're not to scale, but I did recently convert my Aggressor into a Victory-class. I'll take some decent pictures at some point, probably. It's still not quite to scale as a VSD, either, but it's fairly close (I believe the "VSD Aggressor" is about 4.5 inches too long, since the Tyrant is about 57 inches now). Since that room is removable, building it early or modifying it should be no trouble. I've thought about turning mine into something else as well, since the Tyrant already has a conference room--might go with something more mundane, like officers' quarters, though. Also, the "Aggressor" is just what I named my ship, but it's intended to be a generic Star Destroyer. Yours could certainly be the Chimaera. I'd be interested in seeing those mods sometime. Glad to hear that you've made it past the bottom panels "hump," that should be close to halfway through. I thought some parts of the bottom panels might break off if you tried to do it horizontally, but if it works, great. I may just be too used to the Tryant, which definitely needs to be vertical for bottom panel placement even though it's much more precarious when balanced on its "tail." And @BrianGT Thanks and good luck!
  14. It's pretty easy to remove the bottom panels, since you can remove the pins with a small screwdriver when the ship is lying flat on the ground. It's putting the panels on that's a lot trickier.
  15. One builder did that on his own and posted it in spreadsheet format. It's in the comments section on the rebrickable page. I haven't checked through it myself, though. Thanks! Try to keep that positive attitude going when you're like 9k bricks in and the next book is telling you to build yet another section of panels :P