Raskolnikov

Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

    387
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Raskolnikov

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Extra

  • Country
    United States
  • Special Tags 1
    http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/style_images/tags/starwars.png

Recent Profile Visitors

3710 profile views
  1. Raskolnikov

    Constrictor II - Imperial Interdictor (w Instructions)

    If you find the tiles, let me know. I'll look as well. The Constrictor's been built a few times, but we're definitely interested in that kind of feedback. On the bottom panels, I'm guessing you didn't start with the Aggressor? It's probably much more headache-inducing in that regard :) Either way, I'd just recommend giving it another go, using a screwdriver preferably. I don't have a video for the Constrictor panels, but the Aggressor bottom panel video may help illustrate how to use a screwdriver to push in those pins: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roItWo6iRhk&feature=youtu.be
  2. Raskolnikov

    Constrictor II - Imperial Interdictor (w Instructions)

    @PhoibAh, good catch! Yeah, you can just swap that jumper with the 1x2 tile next to it.
  3. Raskolnikov

    [MOC] Imperial Star Destroyer Tyrant

    Heh, looks like you managed to nab the bridge off Jerac's Chimaera. I'd love to see the Tyrant's interior combined with the Chimaera's exterior...so long as I don't have to be involved in transporting it anywhere :)
  4. Yep, we're working on it. The plan is to release a final update that corrects the remaining issues we've noticed along the way. I'm super busy IRL at the moment, though, so no ETA currently. Glad you could make it! Yep, it's definitely a brick, heh. Awesome! Glad you liked it. I let my 5-year-old nephew play with the Aggressor unsupervised for like an hour, so it actually has been kid tested. I figured that the worst case scenario, since the ship is way too heavy for him to move, was that he might collapse the bridge tower or something. But he only ended up knocking off a few cannons and breaking the TIEs (which adults will probably end up doing, too).
  5. Hrm, I thought I was aware of everything at this point. Can't believe nobody's mentioned that before--those pins would drive me nuts, heh. There should've been liftarms connecting to the 1x6 technic bricks placed on book 1, p.285. But it's probably not a big deal if it's not causing any problems--just more of the slightly overbuilt supports I tend to like.
  6. Raskolnikov

    Constrictor II - Imperial Interdictor (w Instructions)

    Yeah, that sounds pretty good honestly. I've been thinking it's around $600 US usually.
  7. Heh, the bottom panels hopefully get easier with practice. That gap also looks pretty normal, and shouldn't be too noticeable when it's right side up w/ the engine panels on.
  8. Raskolnikov

    MOC: UCS Imperial Star Destroyer

    Nicely done! The updated version is a big improvement over the previous model, and the 10030 as well.
  9. That sounds toasty. Any issues with drooping/pieces staying together at that temperature? Nice Nebulon B btw :)
  10. Ah, I see what you're saying. Never noticed that before, honestly. Haven't had a chance to test it, but there are two versions of the arm clip piece, so I'm wondering if it helps to use one version over the other. Regardless, glad it worked out! Yep, it's intended for the bridge to be tilted slightly downwards, relative to the bands of greebling along the sides of the frame. That's accurate to the original ILM models. I believe the sets only have the bridge perpendicular to the frame for the sake of simplicity. In a lot of shots/pics of Star Destroyers, you may notice that the nose of the ship is tilted upwards a little bit. And when you do that, the bridge would be facing directly forward. But it would add a lot of complications to the stands if the model's frame were not parallel to the floor. It's the same in all the pics I took earlier, so you might just need to wait for the superstructure n stuff before it looks right.
  11. Hrm, you might need to post a pic on this one. Book 7 is pretty janky, but I just see a normal placement of a bracket in that step.
  12. Raskolnikov

    HELP NEEDED: Star Destroyer frame build

    That's the trick, isn't it? I totally thought this part would be easy, then I spent like a month working through similar problems. The easiest path forward is probably to copy the pattern that the 75055 frame follows (i.e., just count how much longer each beam is, how much hinge placement changed, etc., then replicate). You can then maybe play around with how you attach the panels to limit the seam down the center. Really, there aren't all that many non-illegal options to create an A-shaped frame with a decent number of cross beams. If you want to mess around with other possible angles for the frame, it'd probably help to brush up on your algebra and trigonometry to find out why some builds work and others don't. Let's take a look at your frame, by way of example: You've made a right triangle with one side 18 studs long (green) and one side 6 studs long (red). In order for the build to not be illegal, we need the hypotenuse (blue) to be pretty close to a whole number. In this case, you've done a good job with that. The Pythagorean theorem tells us the hypotenuse is 18.97 units long, which is pretty close to 19 studs. That's why connecting these beams together probably felt right, while other connections did not. One problem though is the angle. Your exterior panels are using 3x6 wedge plates, which have an angle of 18.4 degrees. Turns out, each half of your frame has the same angle. So if you continued this pattern and built the frame in sturdy manner, then attached the panels to the sides of that frame, the panels would lie flat. At the moment, you can create a gentle slope (as shown in the earlier picture) but it's due to a few millimeters of bending along the sides of the frame, or the panels being placed on the frame a few millimeters off, etc. You can calculate the angle by googling arctan calculator and plugging in 6/18 (opposite side over adjacent side). And the result is the same for a 3x6 wedge plate (which includes a right triangle with sides of 2 and 6). In order to get a gentle slope towards the center of your ship, you'll want each side of your frame to create an angle closer to 18 degrees (yeah, the .4 is important...my Star Destroyers are relatively deep, and I think my angle is around 17.8). I forget exactly what the 75055's angle is, but you can figure it out if you draw triangles like I drew above. As you'll see, putting the hinge plates in different places can allow you to create some new angles. The 75055's frame has the hinge plates in the middle of the cross breams, creating two right triangles on each side (so you have to calculate the angle of both, then add them together to get something that's probably pretty close to 18 degrees). Anyway, GL!
  13. Raskolnikov

    Constrictor II - Imperial Interdictor (w Instructions)

    Yeah, just checked my email lol. My bad.
  14. Raskolnikov

    Constrictor II - Imperial Interdictor (w Instructions)

    @stormtroopercaptain@Iperial_Fleet_Commander@Junior Shark@TWRAddict@Hunter003@danielwerner Thanks guys! No problem, hope you enjoy it. And I totally understand that the Aggressor is not for everyone, so I am hoping this provides another option. Honestly, I just assumed the Aggressor was going to be like 7-8k parts... then Legolijntje built the digital model and it weighed in at a whopping 15k. Thanks! That's the second report I've had of Sellfy issues, so I'll keep an eye on it. The link from the rebrickable page should be the same, so I haven't been able to identify what the issue is. Nevermind, I screwed it up. Legolijntje fixed it :) Yep, thanks for that dude! Thanks, I believe it's about 22.5 inches (~57 cm) long, not counting the antennae things on the front. And it weighs about 7.5 lbs (~3.5 kg). Turning tricks, selling kidneys, etc. You know how it is. Thanks, looking forward to seeing it!
  15. Probably not much, it's a comparatively small section with few plates and tiles. If you search this topic or the rebrickable comments for rockpig, he separated the parts list out by books. You could then load the parts list on rebrickable and see prices. I believe the exterior bridge is book 7. Just be warned that the exterior bridge definitely is one of the most fragile and funky parts of the build--it took some silly connections to get those angles right.